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PaintIt

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  1. I run about the same on my compressor and gun. I also use a Iwata LPH400 for clear but it is overkill on something like a guitar ora bike frame. DGW - I think that a 1.4 tip may be your issue. You would need to move pretty quick to not build a really thick coat. I use a 1.0 in my Sata Mini Jet and this allow me to slow down which really helps in the tight areas that get overlap. I am guessing that you see the most pop in areas that get overlapped while clearing and the flatter areas that get sprayed thinner are better. Ther are a few ways to spra thinner coats - Thinner clear or move faster or both . Adjusting the gun to each method is important but I would not usually go down on air pressure to spray a thick clear thinner. once you get the gun spraying correctly leave it and learnhow to spray with it. I have used the same settings on my gun for about 4 years and it always works. I would suggest that you start doing some practive spraying and get as much gun time as possible.
  2. I would say this is solvent pop and has nothing to do with contaminants. Basically as said before the surface is drying before the clear below can gas out and it causes small bubbles. This can be a issue of the coat thickness or not letting the previous coat flash long enough before recoating. I live in New Orleans and it is hot and humind and I lay it on thick and very rarely see any pop. I like to use the Dupont Chroma clear 7900 which is a 3/1 mix. You do not use any reducer with this clear so the chance for pop is greatly reduced. It can also be reduced some with blender but then you have to spray much thinner and increase the flash times between coats. On the bicycle frames that I paint I use 2 wet coats and flow it like glass and pop has never been a issue. The great thing with the 7900 is the high build with a few coats. this is a example of my clear with the 7900, 2 coats and no polishing. this is a professional photo shoot from kgsbikes.com . All of the lettering and color is painted also!
  3. Yeah I would probably use the hexes also and airbrush the gold lines on top of the other colors. The only reason that I would do this is because metallic gold covers in very light coats so it would be easier to bury in clear. Either way the pieces are transfered using application tape and would not be much different
  4. I would also use 1 shot if you are looking to do this over the existing finish without relearing or needing to sand. You will also get the cool texture of the raised paint that will simulate blood actually on the guitar. I would thin the paint some to get it to run and splatter easier.
  5. I have a sign plotter that cuts vinyl paint masking. The artwork is done in a vector format such as corel or illustrator and then the plotter cuts the mask. I do not like using transparencies or water slide if possible to do my work. Almost all of my work is done with paint. I do lettering and patterns daily with paint and masking. If you want a perfect pattern a paint mask of low tack vinyl is prob best but I like using the mesh material as the design is not perfect and gives character. If you draw the pattern you could get a local sign shop to cut the mask.
  6. If it is supposed to look like the picture then spray the color fades first and then lay down chicken wire, fish net, laundry bag or anything that gives you the desired pattern and spray the black. It will com out excellent. I do it all the time on other types of projects to get patterns. EDIT -- I looked at the guitar pic an it is different than the photoshop. Spray gold and then lay down the pattern material and spray the other colors to make your fades. Not very hard as you will find out. Hope you are using a spray gun and not cans though. Also spray straight down into the pattern. You could get a mask made to do this with relative ease. I cut stuff like this on my plotter all the time also for special effects that require a stuck mask.
  7. Option 2. If you are using automotive paints no clear would be needed but you need to clear within the MFG window for open time. Usually 24hours. You should not need to sand the base color unless it is out of window.. If it is a metallic color you cannot sand without damaging the flake and having to recoat. I like to use intercoat clear ( clear basecoat ) over anything that needs to stay unclear for awhile and this allows for scuffing without damaging the artwork or basecolors and gives the clear the proper adhesion.
  8. don't know if this will help, but i'm bringing my image to some shop to get it printed into a decal, so i'm guessing that its a printed vinyl decal. any tips/advice/precautions i should know about these things?
  9. to be honest, i'm not sure myself.. i'm guessing its either a water slide decal or the type that people use on cars..
  10. Since you asked so nice...... I would cut a paper pattern of what the decal needs to be cut like and then transfer to the decal and cut. If this is a vinyl decal I would use a small amount of soap and water to allow the decal to be positioned perfectly before squeeging it down. If you use water I would use a blow dyer to warm the decal and get it to stick well before removing the application paper from the top of the decal ( if there is any )
  11. I have Sata and Iwata guns and I do not dismantle very often. Just run laquer thinner through the gun to ensure that it is clean. I shoot mostly 2k clear and it can sit in the gun for a hour or so with no issues on cleaning. The issue with ultiple coats in hot weather is that the clear does thicken so the last coat may not spray well. If It is a big job I will mix enough for the first coats and then a new batch for the last coat.
  12. If the paint is not metallic it should not be a big issue to scuff t with a scotch bright pad( I would use gold ) Windows can be worked around by using intercoat clear like sg100 from HOK ( I prefer dupont hot clear ) as already mentioned. What intercoat does is not extend the window but allow you to scuff and not damage the paint or fragile airbrush work. Now even after 24 hours if you spray intercoat over the base it will melt into the base because the solvents rewet the base and then you would have good adhesion and a fresh in-window surface for the clear. I like to use dupont 222s midcoat adhesion promoter if my base is out of window along with scuffing. For clearing you should clear with 2-3 wet coats and let dry 24 hour and then sand out all of the peel and imperfections and reclear . By having a cleared and sanded surface you can get it really clean and the final clear will lay like glass. You could sand and buff the first session of clear but I find it less work to relear adn then sand and buff an almost perfect surface ( if needed ) I paint a lot of odd things so I would say find a shop that does custom work to do your clear if you cannot do it yourself. The for odd shapes they paint the better.
  13. You can buy a foil material from the craft store that is a gold foil and is used over a laser printed image to make the black text gold or whatever color you buy. First you print the image with a laser printer and then you cover the image with this foil and run it through the laser printer again or a laminator to fuse the foil to the toner. This could be done with clear water slide paper for laser printers also.
  14. The sign shops have a material called Sign Gold that is cut on a plotter. This suff is very thin gold leaf material with a adhesive backing and comes in engine turned, plain and and few other finishes. This would be the quickest way. You could also buy a gold leaf kit at the craft store and do it yourself. Practice first
  15. There are quite a few ways to create a real chrome effect. I cannot see putting a guitar in a vat of hydrochloric solution to does the nickle and chrome plating ( chrome is clear by the way ) So the options are sprayable chrome systems or Vacuum metalization processes. Sprayable chrome requires a perfectly polished black paint job that has cured for about 10 days if it is uro paint. The production systems do put out a real looking chrome finish. The mirra chrome and others that you do from a paint gun are not really chrome, just chromeish. The Vacuum Metallization will also require the part to be prepared perfectly and then sprayed with a copper paint to allow the metallization process to work. Basically they vaporize the metal into a vacuum chamber adn then attract it to the part with electrical currents. As I said before , very expensive and as others said t may not last due to the wood . I Think that with a Uro primed adn painted boby with clear and ten doing the chome it would not show much of the shrinkage.
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