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curtisa

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curtisa last won the day on September 4

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About curtisa

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  1. curtisa

    Guitar Pick Materials

    Understood. I had assumed your statement meant that you didn't know how to subscribe to the thread, rather than you didn't want to. I would've thought that making a CZ pick thin enough would also make it too brittle to either be machined reliably or long lasting under playing conditions. It might be hard, but it's probably also prone to breakage at the thicknesses that make it usable as a pick, unless you're happy for it to be similar in shape and size to, say a Dunlop Stubby. I guess what I meant was, is there a particular set of dimensions and angles you're working towards when refining the shape of your picks, and how did you arrive at those values? It's not clear (to me at least) what you mean when you use terms like horizontal/vertical angle, sharpening vertically etc in your paper. A diagram defining what these terms refer to would help. You mention that refining the shape is leading you towards faster speed and lower contact area, but in the photos in your paper, many of the modified picks have quite a 'broad' tip with a large included angle. Isn't this increasing the contact area? To that end, wouldn't a tip with a smaller included angle with the smallest amount of contact area be better for speed, such as a stock teardrop shape or the smaller Dunlop Jazz III? I personally find that the small red Jazz III works for me. I used to use the standard Dunlop Tortex picks exclusively, maybe 1 - 1.3mm thicknesses. Years ago a friend of mine gave me a teardrop pick to try and I immediately fell in love with the small shape, the rigidity and fine point. That eventually led on to the Jazz III, and I've never changed back since. Even now If I go back to the standard-sized pick it feels like I'm trying to pick the strings with a dinner plate; it just feel too big and clumsy in my hands. Weirdly I couldn't get along with the black Jazz IIIs, despite it being the same size and shape as the red ones. The surface finish was slightly different, which made it harder for me to hold on to. The red one is more glossy and easier for me to get a grip with. Super-thick picks don't sit right with me (3mm Dunlop Stubby). Too chunky and clubby. I did try a couple of metal picks years ago. I may still have them somewhere. I had a copper one made from maybe 0.5mm sheet and a quite thick stainless steel (perhaps 1.3mm?); both were the standard shape. The thin copper one tended to snag on the strings a lot which I found irritating (could've been cheaply made with rough edges though). At the time I was heavily influenced by Joe Satriani, and would regularly incorporate pick scrapes on the lower strings while playing, but the copper pick being so stiff and having sharp-ish edges would destroy the wound strings when doing those kinds of effects. The SS one wasn't actually too bad, but the main thing that turned me off metal picks of any variety was the fact that they would tarnish in my hands while using them. I'd end up with blackened finger tips after an hour of playing, and I'd inevitably end up with black smudges showing up all over the white scratchplate. I don't recall having an issue with the sound ('zing', as you say) of these picks though. There was another pick I used to have. Might have been called the 'Dava Speed Pick' or something. It was essentially a more pointy teardrop shape, perhaps 1mm thickness, and the last 5-8mm of the tip was deliberately twisted a few degrees. I guess it was designed to make the pick tip strike the string squarely, rather than at a slight angle that most people's playing hands would naturally hold a pick at, but in my hands it felt like it was hindering more than helping.
  2. curtisa

    Guitar Pick Materials

    Welcome to the forum. You've taken on an interesting topic to write about; one I would think many people wouldn't give as much thought about as you have. I have given your paper a cursory read-through. I have a few ideas that you may like to consider for your work: Your paper is written as a research article, but a good portion of the arguments presented rely on personal opinion. Consider presenting the document more objectively. There is frequent mention of altering the tip geometry of the pick - can you elaborate what these modifications are for and how they are implemented? What is the reasoning behind modification if the stock pick shape is less than optimal? Is this a universal improvement that can be adopted by any player or is it a technique that needs to be adapted to suit an individual's needs? Your choice of strings for the electric guitar tests is unusual (flatwound 6th and 5th, plain 4th. Is there a particular reason you chose such an odd set of strings instead of the more 'standard' round wound set (round wound 6th/5th/4th, plain 3rd/2nd/1st)? How are you determining the relative slickness (friction) and speed of each pick material? Is there some kind of measurement you perform on each pick (objective) or is it down to feel (subjective)? Given the paper makes mention of pick geometry and thickness as being important to improving speed and reducing friction, are you sure you shouldn't also be opening up the discussion to include pick shape? You can click on the 'Follow' button at the top-right of this thread and receive email notifications when a reply is posted in your thread.
  3. curtisa

    T Bass

    The ones in the example I posted are 0.5mm apart and the tape is barely visible in practice. It should be unnoticable up to about 1mm gap unless you really go hunting for it..
  4. curtisa

    Ibanez headstock shape ?

    There isn't enough thread area to tap a thread into wood for a standard metal thread bolt. You might get the bolt in to the wood, but it will have no strength. In all likelihood the nut will pull out the first time you do a divebomb on the bar. You either need to use woodthread screws and attach from the front or use the bolts and secure the nut from behind, as Ibanez do.
  5. curtisa

    T Bass

    Here's how I do it. Like all good methods demonstrated here, I stole the idea from someone else.
  6. curtisa

    Turner Replica wiring advice

    Do a google search for 'variable mid eq schematic' or 'semi-parametric mid eq schematic' or similar. Semi-parametric usually implies that it's variable frequency and variable boost/cut, rather than fully parametric, which will add variable 'Q' to the mix (the 'sharpness' of the boost/cut). The Boss MT2 Metal Zone pedal has an example of semi-parametric mid control, as do the EQ sections of many mixers. Many bass preamps will include a semi-parametric mid EQ section, but they're probably tailored to bass usage rather than guitar. If that's getting too complicated, there a a few fixed-frequency mid boost preamps out there by EMG ($$$) and Guitar Fetish ($), amongst others.
  7. curtisa

    Wiring Idea For Dual Humbucker

    The 4-way Tele mod is pretty common (bridge, bridge+neck parallel, neck, bridge+neck series), but you can treat the two singles on a Tele as the equivalent of the two coils in a single humbucker. That would give the equivalent of 1 = bridge-side single, 2 = coils in parallel, 3 = neck-side single, 4 = full humbucker (note the switching order - that may be an issue for you if you have expectations about how the switch should behave). Haven't heard of being done, but I can't see why it shouldn't work
  8. curtisa

    Floyd Rose on a NK headless guitar

    You still need some way of getting the strings up to pitch from completely slack. The locking nut on a Floyd Rose is just used to secure the strings once they're at correct pitch using the regular tuning machines. The fine tuners on the FR bridge don't have enough travel to get you there by themselves. Are you sure you can't just do a quick retune between songs using the existing bridge? Heck, those NK headless guitars are so cheap you could buy a second one, leave it permanently tuned to drop-D and just swap guitars for the songs that require it. I'm not sure a FR would help you here anyway. One of their key features is to prevent tuning changes.
  9. curtisa

    electric solid body mini guitar

    Sure you can cut frets off to make it shorter. The relationship between fret spacings is the same no matter how many frets you lop off. Otherwise slapping a capo on the 5th fret would result in a guitar that would never play in tune. You just end up with a fretboard that has less frets at the top end.
  10. curtisa

    Chinaberry Six

    When myself and The Chosen One last visited the UK, we happened to visit Blenheim Palace on the same day they were shooting scenes for Transformers: The Last Knight. The crew had all the 'body double' cars parked along one side of the building. Security weren't letting anyone get too close to get a good look at all the bling, though.
  11. curtisa

    Chinaberry Six

    Lucky sod. Bet those are gentle on fuel.
  12. Hur hur. You mean you actually attempted to make it look the right colour? I would've just used white bathroom silicone sealant to fill the rosette. Should've made for a 'bouncy' tone.
  13. Haven't had much time recently to devote to forum attendance and guitar building in general, but I have to say.... ...the rosette obviously makes all the difference to the tone... ...or, very nicely done Mr Jr So, watcha making next?
  14. curtisa

    Wrong login password or computer error?

    Dunno. Haven't heard of it myself, unless it's due to some of the things I've listed above. I can't imagine a situation where the computer would reject your login unless the password you were entering wasn't a 1:1 match with what was stored.
  15. curtisa

    Wrong login password or computer error?

    Network setup requiring password change after x months - could your password have expired since the last time you logged on? Trying to log on to the wrong profile or network domain? Capslock on by accident (either when you created the password or when you're entering it now)? Some letters capital? Some letters substituted by numbers or symbols? Misspelled password (either when you created the password or when you're entering it now)? Keyboard working correctly? Num lock off when you're using the numerical keypad? I suppose there could be some kind of virus out there that can change your password without you knowing but I've never heard of anyone having to deal with such a thing.
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