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curtisa

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  1. Musikraft will do a Fender-style 24.75" neck with the options you want, but it gets pricey quickly: https://musikraft.com/product/strat-neck-custom-build/
  2. Have you tried asking the vendor of the body if they have the neck that matches their products? Seems odd that they would go to the trouble of making a body for a very specific, non-standard scale length and not offer the matching component.
  3. At the time I dd consider replacing the truss rod with something a little more user-friendly like a double-action unit, but it would have been more work than I was willing to expend on the guitar. Complete removal of the fretboard would have been the only way to do it, which I specifically wanted to avoid. As @Bizman62 points out, the anchor block at the base of the neck, which is permanently attached to the rod. prevents the truss rod from being removed by drawing it out of the headstock-end. In practice it wasn't too difficult to saw through 95% of the heel; it was obvious when the blade finally came into contact with the rod and I could change the angle cutting angle and ease my way down as low as possible without causing damage to the blade. The last two little bits of triangular-shaped wood still attaching the heel to the body were easy to break by wiggling the neck side-to-side. Edit: out of interest, are you also doing a neck reset on a Yamaha FG acoustic?
  4. FWIW your membership automagically advances from 'New Member' to 'Member' after three posts, after which you have the ability to edit. Let me know (preferably via PM rather than in this thread) if this still isn't working for you and I'll have a look.
  5. If it were me I'd probably replace the nut, studs and baseplate with the Floyd Rose (or Schaller equivalent) originals, as they will be the parts that will undergo the most wear. Trouble is once you've done that you're nearly at the point where you probably should have bought a genuine Floyd or Schaller locking trem to begin with in terms of financial outlay.
  6. Again, that only makes sense if you know exactly what neck is designed to fit in the pocket that is already cut into that body. On face value, the specs they've provided don't make any sense, as your measurements showed a discrepancy from bridge to nut of +0.5" (26" vs 25.5"), whereas they're implying that there is a -0.75" discrepancy (24.75" vs 25.5"). But we also don't know what heel shape or position their proposed neck was designed to have for their body, which could shift the neck forwards or backwards from the bridge beyond where this unknown scale reference is (eg, does the 22nd fret on their 24.75" neck overhang the pocket or is in front of the pocket?). Too many variables... Very much so. But you will need to do your homework to establish whether the neck you have is compatible with whatever body you get as a replacement. Doing that with Far-East vendors will very much be a game of chance now that you're trying to match a known neck with whatever body you can lay your hands on. The pocket might fit, but there's no guarantee everything else will line up to result in a guitar that intonates correctly. This could be a good opportunity to learn how to cut your own neck pocket though...
  7. The body can only be specified for a particular scale length if the builder knows how it will interact with the neck it's intended for. If the body and neck come from disparate (or maybe unreliable) sources then, as you say, all bets are off. Trying to get a pre-routed body and a neck to match up if all you have to go on is scale length and number of frets is a bit like trying to guess a number pattern if you're only given two numbers in the sequence - If you were shown '1' and '2', would the next number be 3, 4 or something else? The only way I'd personally trust matching a neck with a body is if they came from the same supplier and they guaranteed their compatibility, or if the neck and body were from some kind of authorised reseller like Warmoth or Mighty Mite. You might be able to make it work with a 21-fret neck instead. The distance between the 21st and 22nd frets at 25.5" scale is nearly 0.5" (it's actually 0425", but the extra 0.075" could probably be adjusted out with the intonation movement in the saddles), which would get a neck back to being in the right spot relative to the existing bridge and pickup routes. If you're dead-set on using the 22 neck, the other option is to plug the neck humbucker route and re-route it 0.5" further towards the bridge. The neck pocket would also need to be routed 0.5" further back to allow the neck to sit at the correct position relative to the bridge location and restore its compatibility with the intended 25,5" scale length. A lot more work though, particularly if you're short on tools, time or experience.
  8. How were you testing it? Any chance the LED has been damaged since the killswitch was installed in the guitar? The jack has a little 'paddle' that is sprung against the tip lug, which has its own dedicated terminal that can be wired to: With no plug inserted into the socket the paddle makes electrical contact with the tip, shorting the two together. Inserting a plug into the socket forces the tip connection to separate from the paddle, breaking the connection between the two. If you watch the socket closely as you insert a lead you'll be able to observe the switching action for yourself. Can be handy if you need to switch something based on whether or not a plug is inserted (not relevant in your particular case though).
  9. Split it into smaller chunks - get the pickup working with the preamp first then work on adding the killswitch. Have you remembered to also include a bridge ground connection? The output jack you have has a switched tip connection, hence the fourth lug.
  10. Issues I can see: Battery negative lead isn't connected to anything: Needs to be soldered to the ring lug of the output jack: Poorly attached white wire to kill switch, looks like it's barely held on: Can't see clearly what's going on here, but I assume the push-pull is wired for a coil split function? If so, make sure you have red+white attached to the middle-left lug and green+braid soldered to ground (lower-left lug will suffice if this lug already has a connection to ground, or shell of pot will work too). Make sure there are no shorts between these pairs of wires and anything else:
  11. I don't see the issue. The tool has been modified to include the ability to measure the crown height of the fret when it's installed in the fret board. To do that the tail needs to slide deeper into the body, which has the byproduct of offsetting the tail from the end by that extra depth, hence the couple of mm difference. To get around it you just need to zero the tail before using it, which for absolute accuracy you'd typically do with any set of calipers anyway. I don't think it's 'off' in any way. It's been deliberately modified to offer a feature that other calipers can't do as easily. It just requires a slight modification to your method of usage to continue using it in a more 'traditional' sense.
  12. I've personally never really paid much attention to the extension measurement at the base of a set of calipers, but I think you need to avoid using the movement of the jaws as a baseline reference for the movement of the tail. You're better off using it independently of the jaws altogether - moving the tail so that it butts up against a reference surface first, zeroing the caliper readout and then extending the tail to make your measurement. On all but the most expensive, precision calipers there is no guarantee that all three moving pieces have zeros that are equal. Use and zero each one independently of the others. I'd personally have more faith that the inner/outer pairs of jaws will be machined with equal zero points. Edit: When you look at the 'custom fret crown notch' thingy Stewmac add to it, it's all the more important to not use the opening of the jaws as a baseline for the tail measurement (image credit: Stewmac): The notch means that the tail needs more room to slide back into the body to allow for negative measurements. The upshot of this is that the tail will always extend further from the base than the jaws will open, and the tail will always give you a longer measurement unless you zero it first.
  13. This is what I get when I google for 'Artec EX3 Wiring': http://artecsound.com/pickups/electronics/wiring/wiring-E01a.jpg Seems pretty straightforward - the preamp just slots in between the volume pot and the output jack. Substitute everything upstream of the volume pot with your SD Nazgul instead. Again, this info is provided by the manufacturer: https://tesiswitch.com/installation The 'Passive Pickups with Stereo Jack' diagram seems to have everything you need.
  14. Looks like it. If looking from the rear, the post should be forward of the pinion gear on a righty headstock.
  15. Out of interest, have you confirmed the bridge is indeed off relative to the scale length of the instrument? It seems an unusual error for a bridge of that particular type to be so badly misplaced on the body, as there are no real other alternatives that allow a two-post Tune-o-matic tailpiece to be moved 1/8 - 1/4 of an inch closer to the nut.
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