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curtisa last won the day on December 28 2017

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About curtisa

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  1. Aye, I have the RT700 (actually marketed here as the RT700CX, whatever difference that makes), and find it a really good alternative to the bigger units when I don't need the extra horsepower or mass. Haven't had an issue with the collet. My unit shipped with two spanners - one for the collet nut and a smaller one to grip a pair of flats on the spindle shaft. I don't bother with the pushbutton shaft lock when installing bits. All I usually do is insert the bit into the collet, tighten the collet nut finger-tight and use both spanners in a squeezing motion one-handed to get the collet snugged up onto the shank. Undoing can be done in the same motion by ofsetting the two spanners in the opposite order and squeezing together again.
  2. Ibanez headstock shape ?

    Clamps. And lots of them. No other way of doing it as a hobbyist IMHO. You can spread the load a little by using cauls between the clamps and the body (ie, something large and flat to distribute the pressure being exerted by the clamps), but it won't reduce the clamping quota by a great deal. Spool clamps I've never tried, but I suspect they will only help you at the extreme edges of the gluing surface. I'd imagine they only provide useful pressure within a centimetre or two from the edge of the body. Could be handy on the skinny parts of a body, such as a cutaway or the horns on a Strat-style shape, but you'll still need something with more squeeze for the bigger areas.
  3. cnc rebuild

    Damn, she moves quick. Hope your stand is nice and rigid. The inertia in those rapids will shake the machine off the table! I'm not getting anywhere near those speeds (I'm limited by the capabilities of my parallel port, can't remember exact rates but I think I max out at 100ipm), but my machine is probably less than half your size so I'm happy with what I can get away with. What's the little ethernet board you have in the lower-right of your control box?
  4. Finding the correct neck

    Finding a perfect replacement may be a bit hit and miss, but perhaps look for: Number of frets matching original neck Scale length matching original neck Dimensions of heel area - length and width of flat portion of heel. Height of neck from face of heel to peak of fretboard Radius of fretboard Some of these dimensions may be hard to come by (other than radius and scale length) and I suspect that most manufacturers may not give them out, other than to say 'fits Strats'. You can always take a punt and order a 'Strat-ish' neck and hope for the best, but if it doesn't fit well enough you will have to employ some woodworking skills to make it fit. The fit issues that you may come up against aren't insurmountable (heel wrong size and/or shape, thickness of neck at heel too tall/short), but they are beyond the scope of a simple 'drop and swap' of guitar parts. Warmoth may be able to supply dimensions if you send them an email?
  5. Finding the correct neck

    Moved to the Solid Body Guitar and Bass Chat Section for better housekeeping.
  6. neck setup help

    I'd evaluate the guitar as a whole before deciding the neck needs work. You haven't mentioned whether it plays OK or not (disregarding for the moment what things look like). I have an old Pacifica 112 with a few visibly flat frets in the first five that still plays perfectly OK. My suggestion is to first check that it is set up correctly before assessing the neck and frets for faults: Tune guitar to pitch. Use fresh strings. Check and adjust neck relief via truss rod under string tension. Check and adjust action at saddles. Check and adjust intonation at saddles. Re-tune as appropriate as you go Play the instrument and check to see what works and what doesn't. Do certain frets buzz? Do open strings buzz? Is intonation bad in the first few frets? There are plenty of tutorials out there explaining how to adjust neck relief, action and intonation. Google is your friend. If you decide after doing the above there is work to be done, then you can start examining things in more detail. This may amount to nothing if all that needs to happen is the guitar requires a setup (as per above) I assume by the frets needing 'rounding' you mean 'crowning' (ie re-shaping the peaks of each fret into a smooth peaked shape). Again, I'd only avocate doing this if there is actually a problem being experienced, either with low spots in frets causing buzzing on adjacent frets, or introducing problems with the feel of the string over the fret. Don't get too hung up on the fret rocker indicating a problem with a couple of frets - listen to the guitar first to decide if there is something that needs work. The fret rocker should only be used to identify where an issue lies, not necessarily that there is an issue. I'm not sure what you mean by 'rake'. Perhaps the amount of backwards tilt each slot in the nut has? A very flat (horizontal) nut slot may introduce a sitar-like buzz on the open strings. A slight backwards angle of each slot should guarantee the string leaves the nut slot at the peak of the slot. If it does turn out to be the case that the slots are too flat (or even angled forward), at best it will require a set of gauged nut slotting files to change the angle, and at worst a new nut (plus the files too). I usually check nut slot height by depressing the string between the 2nd and 3rd frets and checking the gap between the string and the 1st fret with a feeler gauge. I aim for a gap of around 0.007" to 0.010"
  7. cnc rebuild

    I should be OK. The drivers I'm using are generic M542's (similar looking, similar pinout, different specs), and the DIP switches appear to be doing the right thing.
  8. cnc rebuild

    Nice one, Mike. You and I seem to have used a lot of similar electrickery components. I see a lot of familiar-looking parts in your control box. I'm within a hair-breadth of completing mine too. Just need to fit up the Z-axis limit switches and I'll be ready to destroy some endmills.
  9. Fill and drill would be the preferred way to do it. But if that's a bit difficult to pull off, maybe wrap a tiny bit of electrical tape around the shank of the ferrule to make it a snug fit in the oversized hole? String tension should retain the ferrule in place under normal circumstances; you only need enough friction to stop the ferrule falling out and being misplaced when you change strings.
  10. Solly’s Guitar build diary

    Welcome to the madhouse. I can feel another 'Are You Being Served' moment just around the corner...
  11. I dig And totally agree about guitars being lighter. Having made a couple of bantam-weight instruments in the last couple of years I can't imagine going back to the big heavies anymore.
  12. Is Oregon any good for guitar?

    Well, there you go. Learn a new thing every day. Oregon the ship, carrying Oregon the wood, from Oregon the state.
  13. Is Oregon any good for guitar?

    Ha! I 'm guessing our 'Aussie-ism' of Douglas Fir is just another example of our inability to identify timbers by anything other than what might look a bit similar back in mother England, or where they came from when they were imported. I suspect (as you also suspect) it's called Oregon because of where it was originally exported from. Isn't it also known as 'Oregon Pine' over in your part of the world? Could also be that over the years we just dropped the 'Pine' bit from the title for economy of speech and brain power And yes, we're having quite a nice summer, thankyou
  14. Is Oregon any good for guitar?

    In Australia, Oregon = Douglas Fir. Commonly used for building frames and railway sleepers. Would probably make a respectable body. Googling 'douglas fir guitar' brings back plenty of hits for builds using Oregon as a timber for guitar making.
  15. Lookiing for HSS Strat wiring scheme suggestions

    Have you gone off the original idea of the selectable tone caps? Could still be done quite easily if it was still on your list of things to do; just need to tweak your diagram a bit. Other easy options for the 2nd switch: bridge pickup 'add' function (enables neck+bridge or all 3 pickups on) boost switch (bypasses all controls and sends selected pickups direct to output jack)