curtisa

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About curtisa

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  1. I think it's called 'Air Guitar'.
  2. If it were any more shiny it'd be invisible. Even the light would slide off it.
  3. [Shawn Of The Dead] You've got red on you... [/Shawn of The Dead] Looks pretty spectastical, Andy
  4. Adds more 'air', 'body' and '3D-ness' to the tone when compared to traditional blue masking tape. Sheesh. Call yourself a guitar builder? I thought everyone knew that!
  5. Templates make the world go round.
  6. You can afford to be a bit more lenient with your fret overhangs when rough-cutting them to hammer in. I reckon you'll save 6-8 frets per neck, easily.
  7. Very well. Here's mine looking fairly neat and uncluttered (no, I didn't clean it especially for the shot). Amongst my office colleages, the manoeuvre I'm currently demonstrating is called FODDING (Feet On Desk, Discussing Internet and Network Gaming): I claim +2 pts for feet, +1 pt for beer.
  8. I assume you're talking about Strat's and similar, where the rear of the pickguard is shielded but the cavity usually isn't. Thicker shielding offers better noise immunity than thinner, but has the obvious trade-offs of being more bulky, harder to machine and heavier. Copper foil, aluminium foils and tapes and shielding paints offer a good compromise It may provide some shielding, but I personally wouldn't rely on it solely as a substitute for dedicated shielding. The metallic coating is provided for looks, not for shielding, and there's no guarantee that the metallic coating is uniform or in good contact with ground at any point. Non-conductive pickguards should be shielded to the same degree that the original pickguard was in order to expect the same performance. You could avoid the shielding if you choose, but the risk is that it will be more prone to picking up all sorts of electrical garbage than it was with the stock pickguard fitted. It's also possible that if the original wiring was taking advantage of the pickguard's foil to maintain ground connections to various parts of the guitar, the guitar may not work properly if fitted with an unshielded pickguard.
  9. Same fault on both pickups? Guitar works OK otherwise? Have a look at these, the third one down could be something to try:
  10. So, that should probably be: In build threads, no one can hear other people scream.
  11. I've never done a set neck, but I suspect those in the know are going to recommend it would be better to build it to take advantage of a longer tenon, and thus more surface area for the glue joint to establish strength where it's needed.
  12. Pickup cavities next. Template is oversized because I use the pattern ring on the router with a 1/4" diameter bit to keep all the corner radii nice and tight: Hog out the excess (carefully!) with the trimmer fitted with a 3/8" bit (don't worry if it looks a bit rough at this stage), then follow up with the big router with the 1/4" bit and pattern ring: Then for the sneaky bit to create the extra depth for the pickup ears: Perfect fit: Bridge pickup is a repeat of the neck: Checking for bridge location with a couple of pieces of black cotton. The bridge will need to be recessed about 1.5mm to compensate for the slightly beefy baseplate this thing has:
  13. It's very nearly, Scott. For sixty bucks (maybe $50US or 45EUR...or a handfull of soggy Engish chips) I reckon it's pretty good value. Time for neck to meet body: A bit of tape either side to ensure the neck is a super snug fit: Dry fit test:
  14. Neat. Reminds me a bit of Maton's Mastersound range.
  15. In build threads, no one can hear you scream.