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Everything posted by curtisa

  1. I'd be too afraid to play it, lest I get fingerprints all over it. And it's got a whammy bar. Watch out Steve Vai, @ScottR is coming to show you a thing or two about how to use that wibbly-wobbly bender whatchamacallit. That ain't a guitar. It's a work of art.
  2. curtisa

    Les Paul build revisited

    Could your bridge pickup be stuck in single-coil mode? Is the bridge volume pot (the one with 'pull single-coil' function) working correctly? There should be quite a bit of tonal variation between full humbucker (bridge volume pot pushed in) and single coil (bridge volume pot pulled out).
  3. curtisa

    snugging nuts - ES type harness

    Information I've seen (and I've never tried it myself, so take it with a grain of salt) is that it should be possible to get the nut finger tight by holding on to the shaft of the pot with a pair of pliers while turning. Be careful not to crush the pot shaft with the pliers if it's one of those split-shaft splined varieties. Once it's finger tight it should have just enough friction against the body to allow tightening with a regular wrench. Nail polish seems to be suggested to lock the nut in place, as it is disolvable in acetone if you ever need to undo it again. Some/most/all of the pots may even be accessible though the f-hole, so you can at least get one or two fingers near enough to the pot to prevent it from spinning while you tighten the nut. Star washers may actually not be recommended, as they may chew up the timber and eventually work loose again over time. Flat washers may be better suited to the task. A star washer is useful when the material being star-washer'ed against is only slightly softer than the washer itself, and will allow only enough deformation for sufficient grip. Thin, soft timbers probably don't really fit this bill.
  4. Been a while since I've done a build thread. I had actually come to the point where I had more guitars than I had room for and managed to sell a bunch off to free up space and reduce the collection to something more managable. I've still got a couple more I'd like to move on. However, extra space on the wall can only mean one thing - time to fill it up again! I've actually had the parts for this build for some time now, but as mentioned above I didn't want to start it until I'd made some room for it. And it will need some room when it's finished... In true curtisa fashion, this build will once again be a new thing for me and completely outlandish to boot. So... Target specs: 7 string fretless bass (you read that right, 7 strings!) Blackwood body with figured brushbox top 5-piece blackwood/sassafras neck with gidgee fretboard, 34" scale Hipshot A-type bridge in black Gotoh compact tuners, 4x3 configuration in black 2x Bartolini slim soapbar pickups Bartolini active preamp with 3-band EQ. Added risk/complexity - the body will be largely cut on the CNC (what could possibly go wrong? ) The blackwood body blank actually has a little bit of fiddleback figure and some sapwood which will remain when the outline has been cut, which will be a nice touch when it's all assembled and finished: The rough locations of the cutaways has been removed from the brushbox top, which will help minimise the number of clamps required to glue it to the body blank. The offcut will then be re-used as the headplate when the time comes: A couple of brads to help locate the top to the body while it glues up: And then clamp forest (plus curved clamping caul through the middle and a couple of breeze blocks for good measure). The reason I'm gluing the top early is because I want to mill the entire body in one go on the CNC, rather than mill the top and body separately and try and line them up afterwards. Could be a recipe for disaster, but I'm willing to take a punt:
  5. curtisa

    Bass in Yo Face

    Cheers, old bean. Lets hope I can keep the pace up a little better from this point onwards. Yes, they are massive potholes I've put into that body to fit all the big bits. I'm a bit concerned I'm building a bit of a neck-diver though. I haven't weighed it yet, but the body doesn't feel all that heavy at the moment. At this rate I might have to add a few hidden fishing sinkers to balance it all out.
  6. curtisa

    Bass in Yo Face

    Finally. Some quality time in the workshop again. It feels good to once again be able to emerge into the sunlight covered head to toe in woodchips after a few hours reducing some very expensive timber to a pile of sawdust. While the CNC'ed body was still embedded into the surrounding timber, it made sense to use the rest of the wood as support for hogging out the remainder of the cavities. If I had removed the body from the slab first I would've had very little real estate left to keep the router from rolling over the edges when doing the control cavity or neck pocket. As it was, the neck pocket is so freaking large on this thing I had to do the last little square inch or so at the leading edge of the pocket by hand, as even my biggest Makita couldn't reach it without wobbling too much: Once all the cavities are all routed out, the body can be extracted from the slab on the bandsaw, cutting through the thin layer of timber separating the front and dthe back of the CNC'ed outline: The thin sliver of timber remaining just gets scraped/sanded away until both halves are clean and level. It's also possible at this stage to see how well the two machining operations lined up. There'd probably be less than 0.5mm alignment error here, so I'm pretty happy with how my guerrilla machining methods turned out: Once all the edges are brought under control, the final task for the day is to add the rear belly contour. 5 minutes with the Turboplane (aka, the Toe Cutter) yields this: 10 minutes later using the Microplane we get to: And a final 15 minutes with the scraper gets to here. Nice to see some fiddleback pattern starting to emerge too. Some minor refinement of the shape still to come, but it's probably about 90% there now:
  7. curtisa

    Les Paul build revisited

    Looks about right to me. I see red/black/white/green and shield (the big fat black wire). Granted the 'green' they've used in the diagram looks a bit murky, but it appears correct. Assuming you're using Irongear pickups, of course. If you use pickups from a different manufacturer there's no guarantee that the colour code will be identical to that used by Irongear. Anywhere you see a wire on the diagram with the black three-lined triangle-y thingamabob shown, you need to connect all those points together.
  8. curtisa

    A Bitsa Dreadnought for me :)

    [TheFonz] Ayyyyyyyyyy! [/TheFonz] Nice work. I'd actually forgotten which timbers I gave you, so I got a bit of a surprise when I saw that pair. Bonus points for using it in an offset rosette. That'd be a bit of burl eucalyptus (not sure which variety), from the same slab that became one of my WonkyFrets builds. Looks like it will need a bit of filling with tinted epoxy or CA before it gets fitted into the top.
  9. Latest model, obviously
  10. Nothing quite so exciting, unfortunately. Several members of the family are downsizing and/or moving house. I've been roped in to helping with various odd jobs and preparation work leading up to it. I still try to pop in around here at least once a day to see how things are going. Sadly, my time for working on my own projects is seriously diminished at the moment.
  11. Sounds like our better halves both attended the same Marriage Equality classes...
  12. curtisa

    A Bitsa Dreadnought for me :)

    I mean, no need to base your design choices on my loaded suggestions. But y'know. Free timber 'n stuff...
  13. So, why are you registered here again? In all seriousness, a hearty handshake for your latest success in the world of fab four string-edness.
  14. curtisa

    Chinaberry Six

    Seems a shame to hide all that work with a timber top. You sure you don't want to slap a perspex cover on instead?
  15. That's so shiny even the light doesn't stick to it.
  16. curtisa

    A Bitsa Dreadnought for me :)

    No grass growing anywhere near Andy at the moment. He's like a guitar-building demon possessed. Would that matched piece of blackwood I gave you a couple of years back be big enough for the rosette?
  17. curtisa

    Bokchoi's Double Humbucker Tele

    Looking pretty tidy. How is it weighing in at the moment? Myrtle + Sass can be a bit on the heavy side sometimes. What are you using for the cavity covers? Almost looks like brass?
  18. curtisa

    Bronze guitar

    That's a pretty out-there design you have going. Reminds me a bit of Michael Spalt's work.
  19. I avoid the plague, cause it leaves me in a bind. ...carry on...
  20. curtisa

    Swift Lite 4 string bass

    It's OK, Andy. We're all mature adults around these parts. You don't have to censor yourself when you say words like 'fifty' or 'fatty'. Nice looking ukelele you've got there. Does it do 'When I'm Cleaning Windows'? All ribbing aside, you've excelled yourself once again. Any chance you could make your next instrument suck a bit so the rest of us have a fighting chance?
  21. curtisa

    Bass volume knob config help

    That makes absolutely no sense at all why swapping the pickup leads would cause that behaviour, but anyhoo; glad you got it working Colour codes don't mean anything for pickup wiring. They're just provided to make each wire easily identifiable from the next. Defined wire colour codes don't have any real meaning unless you're dealing with things like industrial and domestic mains wiring, where there is a legal obligation to follow particular standards or regulations for identifying wires and cables.
  22. curtisa

    Bass volume knob config help

    Without seeing the actual guitar, I'm completely banjaxed. There has to be a wiring error in there somewhere.
  23. curtisa

    Bass volume knob config help

    So you're running a P-bass pickup pair but each element of the pair has their own volume controls? Provided you have wired it exactly as you've shown it drawn in the first post I can't see why it shouldn't work: Both volume pots down = no output Volume 1 up/volume 2 down = pickup 1 should be heard Volume 1 down/volume 2 up = pickup 2 should be heard Both volumes up = both pickups should be heard The resistance and taper of the volume pots shouldn't matter. Linear/log taper will just affect the apparent linear-ness (or lack of) of the volume of each pickup relative to the rotational position of the volume pot. 250K/500K will only affect relative output and brightness of the pickups Flipping the connections of one pickup shouldn't matter. Although if one is flipped and the other is not, with both volumes up you will find that the combined output will be much weedier-sounding due to the way the two pickup outputs combine - Is this perhaps what you're experiencing with both volumes cranked up? Not so much a total loss of volume, but a thinning out of the overall sound?