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bancika

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bancika last won the day on February 9 2017

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About bancika

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  1. Presenting Travelcaster, my dream no-expense-spared travel guitar built by my father and me. I wanted a guitar inspired by Richie Kotzen Telecaster model, but still very unique. A guitar that's easy to pack in a carry-on bag, but doesn't compromise on tone or playability. I never liked headless guitars because they are either not very comfortable to play or builders often get carried away with avant-garde design and take it too far...so I set a goal to make a classy headless guitar that I actually like My father builds guitars as a semi-hobby, manages to do one or two per year. When it comes to guitars, I mostly work on the design and electronics. My specialty are tube amps/preamps and pedals and I also run a website with most of the project documented (http://diy-fever.com/). We already built one full-sized shred guitar for me some 12 years ago and it's been my #1 since. More info on that guitar here http://diy-fever.com/guitars/bancika-mk1/ Specs Alder body with 1/4" flamed maple top, contoured arm rest with cream binding and belly cutout. 80% size of the telecaster. 25.5" scale, quartersawn maple neck with slightly asymmetrical soft V profile and a separate piece of quartersawn maple fingerboard for added stability, Also added wenge skunk strip on the back, partially for stability, but mostly for looks . 41.5mm wide, 23mm thick at the nut. Hipshot Headless System Dimarzio Chopper and Fast Track pickups Custom machined gold-plated brass control plate with LP-style switch and a single volume control with push-pull that splits both pickups, giving a total of 6 different sounds. Jescar EVO gold frets Threaded steel inserts in the neck heel and gold-plated stainless steel allen bolts instead of traditional neck screws to improve neck contact and allow for easier disassembly in case of travel without risking of damaging the wood. Kinman-style treble bleed circuit total weight of 2.6kg glossy poly finish, tinted neck to look like aged nitro For build pics, blueprints, details etc visit http://diy-fever.com/guitars/kotzen-travelcaster/ I recorded few brief clips of the guitar, all played with my laptop running S-Gear sims, will add more soon
  2. thanks. He doesn't use EVO gold, I wanted to do something special and these seemed like a perfect cherry on the cake As for the binding...no special trick, I'm afraid. The part around the armrest is done by hand. My father is really good with fiddley woodwork.
  3. Thanks. I'll see if I have some big enough washers.
  4. finally finished! Took over two years, mostly because of the issues with finishing. I designed the guitar and my father helped build it from scratch. It's heavily inspired by Kotzen Telecaster model, but made a bunch of changes: headless design based on Hisphot system, 20% smaller body (alter + flame maple), quartersawn maple neck with asymmetrical soft V profile (23mm tick at the nut), Dimarzio Chopper and Fast Track 1 pickups with LP switch and split-coil push-pull volume pot, EVO gold jumbo frets. We don't have equipment to do finishing ourselves, so we are at the mercy of people who do it, and they stalled it for years doing bigger jobs that pay more. But happy to report that it's done and loving it so far. It’s portable and light (weighs only 2.6kg or 5.7lbs) and even though it’s not as loud played unplugged as my other guitars, it sustains as good or better than my other guitars. Hipshot headless system works pretty well. Chopper and Fast Track 1 are perfectly balanced and work great on their own and combined. The sit right in the middle between Strat, Tele, LP and modern guitars. There’s more power than Strat/Tele, but not too much. They are not harsh, but also not honky or muddy. Enough output to push the amp hard, but still can clean up nicely. Very usable sound that can be shaped to do pretty much anything. Splitting the coils roughly halves the output and adds some sparkle to the tone, so it can be used as a clean/drive or rhythm/lead switch. for more info and more photos from early stages of builing visit http://diy-fever.com/guitars/kotzen-travelcaster/ Few clips, guitar into interface, S-Gear VST with Plexi-style factory preset. No additional effects or adjustments Cheers, Bane
  5. This Squier Strat is my first guitar I got 15-16 years ago and over years I've done quite a few things to improve it. It's more of an emotional thing, I could've bought a MIM Strat for the money invested, but it's my first guitar and I plan to keep and play it forever. One of the first things I've done is get rid of the horrid pickups it had. Replaced them with two Kinamns (AVn-62 for middle and AVn-56 for neck) and one Dimarzio Virtual Vintage Blues in the bridge. Then I replaced the bridge with GFS brass block, replaced fretwire with medium jumbo, re-radiused the fingerboard to 12" (Eric Johnson style), scalloped the fretboard asymmetrically a'la Ritchie Blackmore and swapped the tuners for Grovers. Few weeks ago I finally decided to refinish the body as I always hated the metallic purple finish and took the body to a local car paint shop to respray it in sonic blue (used the PPG code 11475). It's finally done and assembled back. I'm pretty happy with the results. Over years, the pickguard has aged a lot, so I used some coffee to age kinman pickups and bought a dimarzio aged white pickup for the dimarzio, as it didn't take any stain I tried. Knobs were also resisting, but I managed to age them a bit using stewmac vintage amber liquid wood dye. for more information, photos and some clips visit http://diy-fever.com/guitars/squier-upgrade/ Cheers
  6. Not really a DIY guitar, but it's kind of related I wanted to try Blue Chip picks that everyone raves about but didn't want to invest 50 bucks for a pick, so I decided to make my own. Investigation lead me to material they are made of and it's pretty expensive, but I was able to buy some scraps from ebay for much less. It was enough for about 8 picks. As far as pick shape is concerned, we went with my favorite - Gravity Sunrise. I don't have photos of the process, but it's all manual and described on my blog. No fancy tools are used, but requires certain level of craftsmanship. For more info see http://diy-fever.com/misc/diy-vespel-picks/ Here's the end result
  7. bancika

    Bancika Model 1

    Guitar my father and I built together. Originally we built it solid white but later decided to add a flame maple top and do the dyed red finish with a thin sunburst. Bridge is schaller floyd rose, pickups are DiMarzio FRED and PAF Pro and tuners are Gotoh. Body is made from ash, neck is maple with ebony fingerboard and two graphite rods for stability. As the result, I never had to adjust the neck in 10 years I've had this guitar.
  8. bancika

    Mini LP

    Travel guitar we built for me. Based on LP Studio, but reduced size and features detachable neck with brass inserts, so it's easily taken apart and fits in a carry-on bag. More info at http://diy-fever.com/guitars/mini-les-paul/
  9. I need only a little to stain the travel sized guitar and neck before finishing them with tru-oil. Anyone has some extra? Can do paypal, located in NY Tnx, Bane
  10. I'm doing a travel guitar based on gibson road worn LP with mahogany body and neck. Any ideas how to do that finish? Do I need to stain the body in brown a bit? I planned to use gunstock oil and wax to get the satin, natural finish. Won't go for shiny, already have that on other guitars Thanks, Bancika
  11. thanks for reply pete. Now I'm not sure what material is my sheet. It's not chrome, that's for sure, it was pretty rusty when I pulled it out from pile of garbage in my basement, besides chrome isn't magnetic. As for laser, I don't have access to it, but there's local company that has it and it's not too expensive. Take a look at what they made for me in wood, it's my ross compressor pedal Link My blade is also 10cm deep, but my first idea was to put coil(s) away from strings, like this. Also, Idea was to make stacked design with two 4ohm coils. Should I make 4 leads like on humbucker pickups and then just connect two of them or just solder two coils directly to bobbin and make 2 leads going from pickup? Now that you said that I consider cutting blade to about 5mm and moving coil towards strings. That would also mean not using pickup cover because it adds about 1mm to the distance between coil and strings. I noticed that my larger ceramic magnet (from those cheapo humbuckers) won't attract my blade on it's wider side (like this), but on narrower side (like this). I'm little confuzed by that Cheers
  12. Hi! Today I've made a blade for my 2nd driver out of large 3mm ferrite sheet I found in the basement. It turned out really nice, I coated it with black acrylic paint after sanding it, but it just occured to me now that 3mm thick blade maybe isn't enough? What do you think, should I use this or make another one out of 5mm sheet I have? Also, do I need to make top radius on my blade to match string radius? My plan is to make bobbin out of thin 0.8mm plastic and cut it with laser to make everything look nice. Also, I got black plastic pickup cover to put driver in. Tnx
  13. I'm thinking about stacked coil design. I'll try to find some blade material and try to do it with separate blade magnet, then. It sounds more flexible. Sorry to hear that, hope everything will be ok
  14. Here's more info: as seen on photo, driver is wounded on old strat pickup bobbin with core about 60x6mm with magnetized rods as pole pieces (I assume they are AlNiCo V). Before I connected amp to driver I tested it with speaker to make sure everything is working OK. Wire is 0.20mm Pete sent me, which is the same as he used, so I ruled that out. I measured about 8.2ohm of DC resistance of coil, which should be fine. I'm still trying it with power supply, so it might be the reason. As for 2nd shot, do you suggest trying to wind around blade and put magnet under or just wind directly to magnet. I have magnets suitable for both designs, one has 5x6mm profile and one is about 5x12mm. I hope everything's OK Pete! Best regards
  15. Hello, I finally made a few clips of my sustainer during hand test. I recorded from guitar to preamp and then to PC sound card. B string mode 1 B string mode 2 D string mode 1 D string mode 2 I'm really not so sure which mode is which any more. The one I expected to sustain more actually gives me harmonics and "clean" one sustains much less with same settings. IIRC settings are Gain 0%, volume 60%. Also, problem with G string remains the same. No matter which string I hit G has most chance of vibrating (followed by low E). Also, harmonic mode (which sustains more) increases vibration all time, some kind of AGC would surely help there. If I reduce ruby volume that effect decreases but then other mode is even more subtle. By the way, here's a photo of my Fetzer/Ruby that drives sustainer. Link I'll make bobbin for that piece of magnet I have and try dual coil blade design to try both. One more thing, I've found another magner rod but it's broken, so it's only 52mm long. I checked with my guitar and at 24th fret it's only about 1-2mm wider than string spacing. Does it make any difference if I use that one instead of 60mm long one? Cheers, Bancika
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