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lespaul123

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  1. Some have notified me via PM that I am missing some facts and explanations about the wood I have for sale here. First the thickness of the pieces. Honduran Mahogany Sides average .12", one of the pieces thin out to .1" on the end and the back pieces are at .13" Macassar Ebony thickness is at .105" BRW sides are at .1 and the backs are on average .12 thick on one edge it tapers to .11. The BRW is very old stuff that has been sitting since the 60`s. Just another side note, the back pieces are still attached to the remainder of the billet. I have plans for the remaining pieces which is why I covered the pieces with paper. I will cut the backs to length prior to shipping at around 21", so please let me know if you need a little extra length. Thank you for your interest and please feel free to ask any other questions or concerns. Robbie
  2. If depends on the crack. If they can be closed easily they can repaired with CA or something like that. If they cannot be closed but are not a giant hole they can be filled with dyed epoxy or something like that and made to go away. A lot of it depends on the wood. Most dark stuff you can be sneaky with, but the lighter stuff is pretty tough to get away with it. I have seen some characters use the crack as an accent by filling with a different colored epoxy, which can look cool.
  3. Hey guys I am some stuff up for sale here. 100$ Honduran Mahogany Set - sides 4 3/4" by 32" back 10" by 22" 50$ 1 Macassar Ebony back/electric guitar tops please take note of the checks. 7 1/4" by 20 3/4" 50$ 2 Macassar Ebony back/electric guitar tops please take note of the checks. 7 1/4" by 23.5-19.25" to the knot 450$ Brazilian Rosewood set please note the spiderwebbing and figure. Sides are rift sawn and are 5 3/4 33 5/8-The back will fit a dread and is quarter sawn I haven't posted here in quite some time. I have been much more active in luthiers forum.com and luthier forum.com. thanks for looking!!! The last two pictures are of the BRW sides. The last picture the side pieces on top of the back. The backs and sides were cut out of different billets, but they are very close in color.
  4. Thx man. I used transtints for the color. The guitar cost about 700 with out the pick ups. I really need to spend more time shopping to get the better prices instead of just buying it all right before I start to build. So now I always have my eyes open.
  5. thx guys I really appreciate it. But 51 views an two comments I know there are a lot more opinions out there.
  6. O the as for how long it took.It took 3 weeks for all the wood work( I took vacationt ime from work) and bout a month a half to finish, polish and set it up.
  7. Hey Guys I am posting some pics of my second build finally. I built this thing like 6 months ago but I just now got some pictures of it. It has 3/4 flamed maple top with a 1 1/4 mahogany body. It is a neck through with cherry(one of my personal favorite woods) ziricote, flamed maple o and some black dyed veneer strips. The head stock overlay grain runs from the ziricote fingerboard all the way up the neck(sorry I couldnt get a good pic of this). I also glued a peice of mahogany and dyed black veneer underneth the headstock overlay. I carved some of the headstock to kinda show that off. The fingerboard is fully scalloped with jumbo fret wire. I sanded the fingerboard by hand from 220 all the way up to 12000 so it has a nice shine to it. O yea I used a very sharp chisel to carve most of the scallop and then a rasp on the higher ones. I found that the chisel made it less work to sand than to use a raps all the time.I dont own a profile sander but I imagine that would have worked also. Each fret took about 20 minutes from start to finish. Talk about tedeious o man. As for inlay I did an offset abalone dot inlays with matching side dots. It has a 25 " scale length. Now for the finish I used behlen stringed instrument lacquar. I dont know what you guys think of this stuff. I used the same stuff on my first guitar, and I must say out of all of the lacquars I have used I am just not much of a fan of it. Its just not as durable as a would like it to be. I dunno I will try something diffrent next time. Any reccomendations? Ok back to the finish I did a blue black dye on the raw body. Sanded back then tinted with with black dye. So it look very silverish then in certain angles it goes blue. At first I was really bummed about the color but now I love it. O I know lots of you guys prolly do not like emgs but dont worry Bareknuckles are on the way. O one more thing my woods suppliers were North west timber(top) Gilmer wood (body) Hearne hardwoods (ziricote) Berea hardwoods (flamed maple for neck) Thanks for checking this one out let me know what you think
  8. THx guys I really appreciate the fast response.
  9. here are some pics. I kinda see what mattia was talking about. But either way let me know if this is common? Also please understand that I am not done with the guitar yet. O and the pickup holes are sloppy but they cover. It is the silverish one not the sunburts prs copy. http://good-times.webshots.com/album/554985896XxFwcw
  10. yea its not quite like that it much more extreme. I have finished it and when you hold the guitar one side will be kinda like blah and the otherside is lit up. I am gonna have to post pics and show you guys what I am talking about. I cant fully explain with out pics. Ill get some up tonight
  11. Hey I noticed something about my guitar top as I was prepping it for finish. It seems that the top "reflects" figure on one side and then when I move it the maple will flip and show the figure on the other side and then the other side will kinda go away not entirely but significantly. What I am trying to figure out is it something I did or just the nature of the peice of maple. It is book matched and mated pretty well so I am kinda confused. It seems that the figure kinda runs out from one side to the other. The figure is strong on both side but one side has a little less depth than the other. Almost not even noticable. Hmmm has anyone else ever had the same issue. .
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