bvalentine

I am officially done with this forum. You guys are the biggest bunch of condesending a-holes I've ever met. I've tried to be nice. Just wanting to understand a couple of things BEFORE I actually build a guitar. You know, before I buy parts. I can't draw anything out to scale without having the parts in front of me. But no, I'm just another idiot right? I wonder... Is it just a certain type of personality that gravitates towards building guitars? Maybe it's the same disease that you find in guitar shops. Anyway... I don't need the negativity. So, congradualations... I'm gone. No need to reply, I won't be reading it. You folks can go back to building yer 9 string cocobolo basses and I'll leave you alone. By the way...

Just thought this would be a interesting topic. I've only rasped some knuckle skin. Weak.

Right. If I was you I'd take some tooth picks, dip em in tightbond, cram em into the empty holes, break em off. Let it dry, sand em down (or trim close, dont sand your paint off). NEver ordered pick guards from them. If I was you I'd call and talk to a live person about what you need and what they have.

Hi, I'm wanting to buy your tune-o-matic. The new build I am doing is based of the neck and playability of this early Dean Baby-Z short-scale I have. Do you think the tune-o-matic's string spacing will work for this project? Here is all I know about the Dean: 3/4 Body Size 24-3/4"" Scale 1-5/8"" Nut 22 Frets That's all I know right now.

Hey, great info. I have a question, or, just wanting a clarification to see if I understand. If you are useing a Fender style neck and low profile Fender style bridge.... you don't angle your neck? But if you use a Gibson style neck build & tune-o-matic bridge you must angle your neck because the tune-o-matic bridge is higher than the Fender Tele/Strat bridges. Am I right? Question/Clarification #2: If I'm building a guitar with a flat sawn Fender style bolt on neck, BUT I am wanting to use a tune-o-matic bridge (or in my case a LP Junior bridge) I will STILL have to angle my neck because of the bridge? Of course I would like to all together aviod angleing my neck (seems like a narrow marigin of error). But I guess it's a trade off; either do the Fender thing with a more complex bridge or do the simple Gibson bridge with a more complex neck?

Interesting: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6665726

Of course it is possible... but my opinion, unless you're trying to crank out 10 guitars a day... why bother. Seems you'd be more accurate by hand. Here is Gibson's:

Hi. I had to buy a set of 6 because I broke one of mine on my Strat. Now, I am wanting to build a guitar and use my remaining 5. But of course I can only buy in a set of 6 ($50). Now I hate to keep having to buy set's of 6. Can ANYBODY please help me? Do you have one, just one of these I can buy? I know with all of you luthiers out there somebody must have one:

I should add that I am trying to have a neck flat sawn like a Fender neck, but with the shorter 24-3/4" Scale & 1-5/8" Nut of the Baby-Z, and bolt-on.

First of all let me appologize for posting this question here because I pretty much asked it in another thread. But the question was burried and I figure I would get a better range of answers by starting a new thread. O.k. here we go: The neck that I am basing this off of is an 80's baby dean short-scale neck. Pretty much a Gibson scale neck. Before I left the house I measured the thickness (of the Dean's neck) with my digi-capiler. Then I measured the wood (Rock Maple) at the dealer and was disappointed that they did not have anything thicker to work with. But, cosidering that the Dean neck was measured with a fret board on... I figure buy the time I get a fret board attached to my maple, I will have enough thickness to work with. (Somebody PLEASE tell my I will have enough to work with help.gif ). Here is the thickness of the maple I bought: They did have short pieces of Rosewood I could have bought. But after giving it some thought I decided for my first project I should just put my pride to the side and order a fretted neck board from stewie-mac or all parts. Everything measures out ok when I added the fretboard width .

You might be right. My stomach it turning a bit. But when I was in the store everything measured out ok when I added the fretboard width . If this doesnt work out I'll just order something.

O.k UPDATE!! Yesterday I drove out to the only hardwood dealer in town's shop and picked up a plank of hard maple for my neck. I had to buy a 24ft plank (which is ridiculous) but they were able to run it through the planner for me. Oh well, I guess I have plently of wood to screw up on. I got home and cut off about 35in to work with. Here is a picture next to my pine proto-type practice neck. (please note that the maple plank is not wrapping around on the sides, that is just the grain fooling ya). Now, the neck that I am basing this off of is an 80's baby dean short-scale neck. Before I left the house I measured the thickness (of the Dean's neck) with my digi-capiler. Then I measured the wood at the dealer and was disappointed that they did not have anything thicker to work with. But, cosidering that the Dean neck was measured with a fret board on... I figure buy the time I get a fret board attached to my maple, I will have enough thickness to work with. (Somebody PLEASE tell my I will have enough to work with ). Here is the thickness of the maple I bought: They did have short pieces of Rosewood I could have bought. But after giving it some thought I decided for my first project I should just put my pride to the side and order a fretted neck board from stewie-mac or all parts.

I live in a really old neighborhood. Once the a big deal, but now it's mostly college students. Anyway, I was useing my new hand plane to fix a couple doors that stick. I have no idea what kind of wood this is, but it's solid and safe to say at least 40 years old, maybe more. Hmmm.... wonder if old land lord would notice a missing closet door?

Yes, I do intend to carve the body contours but I figure it would be easier to do the pickup cavity & neck pocket routing first while the top is still flat. Yes, good tip there. The only reason I went ahead and carved the back was because I knew I wasnt going to use it. I'm off today, so I'm going out in search of a good piece of maple. (cant find a hard wood dealer in town). Fingers cross.

I don't mean to quible with you, but for that particular project he uses manual hand tool all the way through. http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/lapsteel/tools4.htm and the router thing was just an opinion.