gtrmn768

steve morse dimarzio pickup beige designed to be used in the bridge position I had it in one guitar then took it out and now it just sits.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...E:IT&ih=006

300 shipped

$320 shipped 380 ftf

300 ftf- 350 shipped

exactly it is gorgeous, I didn't do the work on it. I bought the body with the pau ferro board, (which i cut to size, woo, big deal. Yea right) The guy that built it supposedly worked in Memphis for Gibson, left and made a few things real small production. He sold this as is to a music store. A local guy here in Atlanta bought it on a business trip up there and he bought the tuners for it. He never got around to finishing it, so I bought it off him and bought all the other stuff in hopes of finishing it. I never got too far. Oh, well need the money now, fishing time is around the corner, and so I abandon the winter wood project.

6 string bass luthier project Quilt maple top with walnut and maple back. Headstock reads "Kroll" Cavity is partially shielded. Has a pao ferro fretboard, which still needs to be radiused. It can be fretted or fretless. Has two carbon fiber rods installed in neck already. Has chrome bridge. And black tuners. I also have a 60hz emg pickup never used just opened. The rear cavity cover I cut from 3-ply white pickguard material, still needs final fitting. I have set of pickguard screws, abalone side inlay dotsn and medium stew-mac super glue for them. Also have a unopened bottle of fretboard finishing oil, three potentiometers an output jack, and a set a bunch of .1 capacitors. There is also a 16" fretboard radiusing block. and a black graphtec nut. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00196.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00193.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00195.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00197.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00191.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00199.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00201.jpg shipped $350- $300 ftf

I am original owner. 3-4 years old, minor surface wear from 3-4 years of use, plays and sounds great, just time for a new machine, comes with hardcase i will try to remove most of my stickers from case..it is sunburst finish. please email all questions i check email quite often. i can take better pics if needed $480 Shipped, again EMAIL ME guitarman1213@bellsouth.net, i need to sell this to help purchase my new Peerless New York Archtop

440 in ATL

MY saddles are having to be adjusted to the point where they are nearly out of the little screw holes, there is no way this is right, why are my saddles up that high and how can i lower them, it is a warmoth tele body and a MM Strat neck that was slightly shaven down to fit neck poket, however the neck split on first install and that has been repaired, today i will check to make shure the screw holes didnt give away on the guitar, otherwise im out of ideas for fixing the saddle height

$480 OBO-ftf in Georgia 520 shipped <----paypal only all other methods are too long fender hot rod deluxe about a year old, just downsizing basically brand new. ask questions, has paper work, and i can throw in 8 (4 sets,4 changes of tubes)brand new 6l6 tubes , also has cover,and switch

there is no place for my router base around the pocket because of the body shape, so i can re-route the pocket to make it smooth and be shure it's even if i can lay the base of the router on something.

what is the best method to route the neck pocket after the body shape has been cut out? I think this will even out my pocket since i forgot to do that part before cutting out the body shape.

i have a six individual piece brisge. i didnt shim it after all, i just raised each string to a ridiculous height and shimmed the low E and A. because they couldnt go higher. the neck angle to string height at bridge seems fine now. and if i were to easy out the screw then plug it it would be ugly and probably more of a long term problem. I would have to reclamp the heel and glue it and .......... i really dont feel like doing all that this thing was designed to be played and beat like all teles not to be aesthetically pleasing, i mean hell i will probably replace the body in the futue if i feel like it

Well, working on Franken-Tele, i had a screw head break off in the neck, so i cannot remove the neck to shim it, i need to raise the bridge height because it is the problem. Not to mention that one of the lower screws split/cracked the neck heel, however the neck sits tight against the body so no need to fix any of this and no need to get more headaches. So should I shim the bridge at the front side so it is at a slant going downwards toward the tail or should i make a shim with screw holes that will allow the bridge to be flat but up higher. Also I am going to shim it with pickguard material.

No tips from anyone?

OK UPDATE, I have sanded out the interior as nice as it is going to be, i rough cut the routing areas by drilling a drill bit perimeter then using my dremel dry wall cutter to cut out the perimeter, leaving me with a rough area for the router to clean up, i got that cheap router from harbor freight, sorry if im not allow to say the store name, while removing i got a split with the grain near neck pocket, so i glued that up, i glued the two together clamped the areas that needed clamps then rubberbanded the rest just because i only have two clamps, huge and small. once they are dry tommorow i will try to route the neck pocket :D ANY TIPS? also Any Tips on how to route my F-hole, I am new to my router and routing and these are important steps, here it is clamped up http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00671.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00668.jpg and the crack http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00673.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00677.jpg

thanks for the tips, as far as the top goes yes i am going to do what you said and drill then dremel, if it is ruff i could care less its hidden 98.9% of the guitars life, so i will most likely sand it smooth, OCD and yes i used the biggest bit i had didnt feel like a trip to the local store yesterday, for the neck pocket i am going to use a real tiny bit to drill down the perimeter, leaving space to expand the pocket with the dremel, then lay my laser level on there to get me aline across the cavity then measure every bit of depth, adjust until it is even.

Well here it is so far, first off the work area and the mess, then various halves of the body, the top piece is covered in tape to protect the nice looking flames and save me a headache later. The top is the piece with the hunk of wood where the pickups will be, i figure no sense in cutting that all out, I will just drill a series of holes and nock it out when i mount the pickguard and pickups and clean up the mess with a file. The top I drilled and then chiseled and is more smooth and thinner than the back, which was all chisels, once the dremel gets back from a road trip to Dremel Hq in Wisconsin i will sand it all down, then glue her together, then again dremel the cutaways for prime smoothness, then belt sand the rim, etc. fit everything meaure for the bridge, do the ferules.... then oil it i doubt i want to stain it, to darken it to match the toroise pickguard, i think the oil will darken enough, Ill test some scrap first with both, http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtrmn768/DSC00538.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtr...rprocess001.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtr...rprocess003.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtr...rprocess002.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtr...rprocess004.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtr...rprocess005.jpg Heres the maple MM neck that is going on it, it's BIRDSEYE!!!!!! I'm thinking this is the MAPLE-Caster , ah so corny http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtr...rprocess006.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtr...rprocess007.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i137/gtr...rprocess008.jpg as far as that pocket goes im thinking ruff it off with chisels leave myseld say 1/10th of an inch or a small bit then ruff that with the sanders on the dremel? or wait till the dremel returns put on a bit and take it thin layer by thin layer until its down low enough? i just forgot i ordered a varitone from BigD, it will go between the two knobs i suppose, i dont need the vol. knob for swails i gots me an Ernie Ball Please read the image posting rules before posting any more images. You are allowed one pic per post, the rest should be links or thumbnails. I have modfied your post.

any ideas on how to hit up my neck pocket? this could get interesting

i taped off the depth on a drill bit and have been drillings hundreds off holes to save me chisel time, will post pics of this project on my franken tele post

yep been chiseling all day,

I have a dremel with router bits and the cutting attachment base, i use this to route however, i feel that the dremel sucks and doesnt cut out enough surface area in one cut, anybody have any ideas on how to remove masses of wood for chambering a guitar without a real router or dremel?' I've been thinking of calling a local cabinet maker and borrowing his router.

I've been measuring making templates double checking everything before i touch this wood, infact the whole house smells like sharpie, I am now trying to think of the best way to make a templat efor bridge placement and where my main cavity will be, as well as thinking of how to modify the pickguard to show off the wood and be out of the f-holes way, just an update, input is welcome

i got the wood today and marked where im gonna cut it, now i have to either go buy a jigsaw or spend alot of time infront of the belt sander