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Posts posted by Muzz

  1. I marked out the fingerboard with a centre line, measured the middle of the fret, then to be absolutely sure drew a diagonal from each corner of the fret space, all lines should converge on the centre of the dot. It really helped that I had a floppy at the time other wise it could have been a bit awkward, I am talking about my floppy ruler of course which is good for measuring on a radiused fretboard.


    All pricked like a sanga on a barbie, ready for the centre point bit.


    Tried the first fit, it looks OK.


    All done, its time to stop for a Tiger beer, dots in tomorra.


  2. Not a big fan of boxed rods, But you are correct. They do need to be glued into place.

    I use epoxy to secure them (on the rare times I use one) Im not sure about the poly giving a strong enough bond to the aluminium. Almost certain it will fail actually :D (sorry, not bein a dik here, just like this build & would not want any problems to crop up & screw it for you).

    I would try an experiment, Put a dab of the poly glue onto the surface of the aluminium, wait a few days, then see how easily it comes away.

    OK you made me feel a lot better, I thought I was being compulsive. You know I can't remember where I read to use polyurethane glue, maybe in Melvyn Hiscock's book? I can't check, I had to give it back to the library. I have never used polyurethane before but I went to the hardware store and bought some, it was $20 for this tiny tube, wow I thought this must be good, I could have nearly bought an entire pointy neck from Guitar Fetish (the batch that the factory forgot to rout the nut position) for that. On the pack it had a broken cricket bat being fixed and it said all the right things like it being flexible, etc. Then I broke my golden rule that is always try new stuff out on scrap, and glued it in.

    The truss rod I am using is a Gotoh brand with a steel box, and the box slightly tapers towards the side that sits in the bottom of the channel, so at the top there is about 0.5 mm space between the box and the wood on either side. The polyurethane glue did not fill that space, the glue was runny like model aircraft glue. After 2 hours after it was supposed to be set but the glue on the spreader was like old crumbly but sticky silicone. I was feeling decidedly uneasy at this point, so I decided to take the rod out, and do some more research. It came out pretty easily so, I think you are right, even though the glue takes 24 hours to reach maximum strength.

    So I went with something I am familiar with, Araldite epoxy, and tried again. This time the glue was viscous and the leftovers went very hard but flexible and did inspire confidence.


    This time I felt good about it, the glue filled the gaps nicely.


    Close up.


    In blokey speak, that ain't goin anywhere.

    Trying the hardware out on my scrap wood practice neck, this was made from a piece of wood 1 mm thinner than the real neck.


    Happy trails :D

  3. Sanded out the concave regions in the template with sandpaper taped around a rod. Ran my fingers around the curves feeling for any dents or convexes, put the flexy curve over these and filed and sanded them out.


    Started to butcher the block, I don't have a band saw so preparation is needed for a jigsaw cutout, as it gets smaller the faces get more flat, I might not have to buzz it to face up after all, sanding might be all it needs.


    Started sketching ideas for the headstock.


    Looking forward to getting my fretboard and truss rod in the mail soon.

  4. Have fun and post some songs B).

    I like that sentiment, have fun, and it really helps to have a simple, straight forward set up. I like a good laptop because its portable, throw it in the car and go to your freinds house. For software follow the KIS principle.

    Get a headphone amp mixer so you and the band can jam together through the cans and record.

    You can throw down rough demos with drums using one mic in front of the snare about one foot back and slightly higher, it will pick everything, crap quality but enough to see if the song is turning out good, if it is, re-record the drums with more mics, a cheap 8 track mixer will do the job. Or talk your drummer into getting an electronic kit, these are less than a grand now and you can smash away at 3 in the morning without the police coming around.

    For guitars the direct injection technology is so good it's a great alternative to a real amp. That said, an amp and mike in the bathroom makes a great isolation booth and the hard surfaces give a lovey recorded tone.

    After you have recorded your song, slap down a rough mix, turn the sound right down until you can hardly hear the music, can you still hear every intrument? If not adjust at this volume and then crank it up. Listen to the song on lots of different systems, often the mix sounds completely different on an iPod as compared to a stereo. Listen to it for a week or two, you will start to hear things you didn't when you first mixed it, usually that the guitar is not loud enough :D

    Here is an original song I did in an afternoon using Cakewalk


    Post your tracks but wince as the internet compression makes mush of the highhats :D

    • Like 1

  5. Theres lots of videos up on Youtube which cover sweep picking.

    There is indeed, wow, long time between drinks on this post, one of my favourite sweeps is up the left hand side of the pentatonic scale and down the right hand side,







    Another thing you can do with sweeping is insert a sweep or half a sweep cycle into a melody, I have put a link to an example with the second half of the sweep above slotted in with some tapping and standard picking,


    In the video I tried to play along with my improvised solo and I think I remembered most of the notes except one :D

  6. I have an issue with the neck pocket. Hopefully tonight I'll get some pictures up that will help with my question. basically the sucker is too big...the pocket that is. and I need input on how to deal with it.

    This is just an idea, filling in the gap with a catalyst setting finish, I have never tried it, but perhaps if you put a thin layer of vaseline on the neck where it meets the pocket to stop resin sticking to it, then screw it to the body. Put tape along the side of the body on both sides of the neck to stop resin running out the sides. Then mix up some resin and inject it using a syringe from the top on either side of the neck. Once it sets remove the tape and if the theory works in practice it should be a perfect fit. Obviously a test run would be the go before trying it out on that guitar which is shaping up beautifully. The veneer shim would work as well, I do not know which fix will look the best, good luck with it.

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