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jaycee

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jaycee last won the day on August 19 2012

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About jaycee

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    Wales UK

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  1. I have used that method with a traditional bridge, but I couldn't cope with seeing the grounding strip inbetween the individual saddles
  2. Novel use for old guitar strings.......very easy to push through the channel to the control cavity
  3. Thanks for the reply's guys. I have just de-soldered every thing and checked as I re-assembled and it is still there. It is more noticeable when the volume pots are turned up full. It has a MM humbucker at the neck and a Jazz at the bridge, Two volume pots, one 3 way switch.. The only thing which was constant in the re assemble were the jack socket and lead, and I am 100% certain that it isn't the lead.
  4. I have this finished, ......but there is a problem with the sound. There is a slight hum and a ticking noise when any metal part is touched. It's not too obtrusive but nonetheless it is annoying. I have changed the pots, de-soldered the pups one at a time and re-soldered every joint several times. The only thing I haven't done is change the pickups as I have no replacements. When I took it to my local music shop they tested everything and no fault could be found. Ant ideas?
  5. Grain filled with Black acrylic paint, and test fit of the tuners.
  6. I haven't been on here for a while and wondered if this topic was still running......lol
  7. Fret slots are cut, slots received a slight bit of relief to facilitate better sitting and removal just in case. Also a few coats of Danish oil.
  8. Cool builds. I like the look of the headstock logo and the way it's done. Did you freehand the engraving and fill with black epoxy?
  9. Thanks for the wb guys. Must be eighteen months - two years since I worked on this bass, hopefully I will fret it in the next week. Just glad to be back building, I have been up and down health wise and couldn't get my head around building.
  10. Neck and Body 90% completed,
  11. Remembered to route the wiring channels before the top goes on. And some chambering to reduce the weight.
  12. My router bit is 12.7mm, after reading one of GSP' post I bought a 20mm and 15mm bearing, so I could trim the body down in stages. I used the shaped waste parts of the body and template to act as a support for the router, which is particularly useful when doing the horns. The mdf was stuck to the Ash with double sided tape, and after I had routed 3/4 of the sides I flipped everything over then used a bottom bearing guided bit to finish off. Some relief holes drilled out before hollowing out the 2 sections, and I have also drawn in and written on the body where to route for the pup wires, as I forgot to do this on my previous build and had to drill the holes through the pickup cavity using a 20" bit because of the angle.
  13. Thanks, it's such a simple idea not sure where I remembered it from, and it beats freehand. I want to contour the edges quite heavily, so much so that the upper horn will be oval shaped very much like the Ritter Bass', what options do I have other than router or a rasp?
  14. The body shape is heavily influenced by the Ritter Raptor Bass. Scale length 34" Top Sycamore ? slightly rippled Body Ash I think the top is sycamore. It was bought nearly 3 years ago and I can't find any receipts for it. I draw another outline about 4mm away from the body shape by using a nut or washer as a guide with the pencil inside. This will be the line I cut to with the band saw. Pilot holes were drilled then using a 16mm bit drilled 2mm or so into the back of the body so when the relief holes are drilled using an 11mm bit, there would be no tear out
  15. using the same manufactuerer is recommended as it should mean that everything is compatible and you shouldn't get any issues.
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