jaycee

I like the inlays, the end of the headstock looks odd and the monkey grip is not going to be effective in it's current position. NIce colour as well.

I used Walnut on my 12 string and bent it over a hotwater bottle

Nice build Doug. Is the shape your own? there's a nice balance in the widths of the upper and lower bouts

This was my 4th build but 1st commission. My brother asked me to build a Chambered Bass so here it is Cecar his family's first name initial Scale length 34" Neck 5 piece laminate of Ash and Sapele Body Ash with Spalted Beech top Fretboard Birds eye maple Pickups Entwistle at the neck Wilkinson Soapbar at the bridge Dots Black horn and marble with tigers eye inset The knobs are made from the neck laminate topped off with the Spalt, and the switch tip is the Spalt hardened with superglue. The sound hole is 2 bass clef's ( one inverted) and the truss rod cover is a rectangular piece of spalt and Birds eye maple veneer on the headstock. The fretboard was finished in Tung oil and the body varnished in Satin polyurethane. He was over the Moon when he received it. The Entwistle pickup is excellent nice and crisp sounding. Build thread here Other pics here

I would recommend laying some sandpaper over the area where the bridge will be glued so that the grit is faced up, and then sand the bottom of the bridge so that it has the same contour as the top of the guitar. You will get a better gluing area and the bridge will be more stable.

Thank you SR. I made sure that if I wouldn't happy with the work if it was being built for me, then it wouldn't be good enough for anyone else. And I got paid for it today.

managed to get some pics before it was whisked away by the new and very happy owner........My first commisioned build so it was strange to let it go. It looks washed out in the first few pics but the later ones shoes it's true colours.

Opps how did the word "coats" get in there? just scratch the suface of the paint lightly with the sandpaper before the next coat. Lots of thin coats is much better than a few thick layers, and the better primer/undercoat stage is, the easier the top coats will be.

+1 ...on don't panic. I would be looking for at least 3 coats before you start to level the paint out, with scratch coats using 320 grit (ish) paper inbetween coats. Before that you should have got the body as flat as possible. P.S. before you dp anything else tidy your bedroom up!!!

As long as the dowel doesn't have to be knocked in with a sledge hammer it should be ok. A nice snug fit will do with some glue. If for some reason you can't find the correct diameter dowel then buy something as close to the hole size as you can with a drill bit the same size i.e. 5mm dowel and a 5mm bit. B&Q should help out there, from your pics I guess your in the UK?

Thats a nice project you got goin on. A good soaking of the hardware with wd 40 may help to clean them up.

This is just anout finished Got a new camera so just a teaser for now whilst I wait for some daylight and learn how to use it.

This is something else Pete, beautiful. I especially like the heel join and the binding around the cavity cover

Switch tip and truss rod cover

I have 2 weeks to finish this. Just the electrics to wire up, bit of sanding on the headstock, make a truss rod cover and put it together. Got the ferrules put in this morning, flush mounted.

Two coats on the top, one more then I will level with 400 grit before another coat goes on.

First coats of varnish

Cheers scherzo, I pick up a lot of ideas by just reading the build threads, using the templates for the chambers is something I would allways do on future builds. Anyway Neck is completed, just needs the varnish put on.

Fretted this morning. I put some titebond on the tang and put pressure on the fret ends just in case they want to pop up.

This was an uncomfortable time, it's the first time I have done this and as the Bass isn't for me I was a little unsure. When I started to sand the edge off I wasn't very happy with it, but it started to look better when I worked with the grain by hand, up until that point I was using a drum sander in a drill. Got onto the back with 220 grit on the orbital and a little tidying up by hand.

Better pics of the control knobs. A flush mounted electro socket, and a profile shot of the half shaped heel of the neck which is not completely finished. I also put threaded inserts into the heel which you can just make out 4 on one side and one on the other.

Progress on the neck has been slow, I am waiting for the dots I want to be re-stocked. I will do a partial carve of the neck because I like to have a flat section when the frets get installed. Taking a rasp to a perfectly good piece of timber is scary The heel opposite the neck pocket is being half profiled for easier access to the upper frets, which means the neck pocket is only half the width of the neck

Thanks Wez.

What I would like to do is have the volume working independently of each other when either one of the pickups is selected and be able to do the same when both are selected i.e when the 3 way switch is in the middle position. Pos 1.....neck pup only with vol 1 pot pos 2..... both pups, being able to adjust the volume on either one i.e. vol 1 pot on 4, whilst vol 2 pup on 9 pos 3..... bridge pup only with vol 2 pot

I am thinking about the wiring for my Bass now. It has a single Jazz style and a Humbucker soapbar with a 3 way toggle switch and 2 volume controls. I assume the wiring is like this http://www.irongear.co.uk/1%20humbucker%20+%201%20a90,%202%20vol,%202%20tone,%20no%20taps%20watermarked.gif but ignoring the tone pots