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About FlashBandit

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  1. Is there any reference for what affected tapers would look like? (I can't seem to find any online)
  2. I'm not as versed in this as I'm sure most people here are, so I appreciate feedback. Mender, I'm thinking about building something like the Beavis board, but without the voltage sag and instead to have some pre-wired pots and a rotary switch in there. The idea would then be that the pots my have slightly higher values than I commonly need, and so I can effectively lower the R of the pots by adding a couple resistors on the breadboard, so I'm not always soldering up new pots, or having to move hardware around. This would then be applicable to 90% of the possible pedals I might want to make, and then I could make up the difference by using trims/other switches where needed. Does this seem like it'd work ok for some of you seasoned pros?
  3. Ya, I'm kind of thinking about making a pedal with a breadboard, and all the pots and stompswitch etc. are built in for an easy-to-wire-up solution to my long pedal building processes. Kind of like the Beavis board but I'm not a huge fan of those. So for something like this, would you prefer ease of use, and simple options? or would you prefer it to be way customizeable, and tons of options?
  4. I'm trying to figure out if these things are worth building, Occasionally you see prototyping pedals where all the dials and switches are built into a pedal, and you get to arrange all the electronic guts (ICs, resistors, caps etc.) to make any pedal you want, and fully customizable. So basically it's a shell of a pedal, where without soldering you get to make/modify any pedal you want, and you can even build/tweak exact replicas of almost any pedal. If it was easy and cheap enough to do: Would you ever use one to sculpt your unique tone? To learn electronics for fun? Or if you're electronics savvy already, would they seem useful to streamline pedal projects?
  5. What are the drawbacks to using BTL amps? I'm just considering using one, and I want to know what problems I'll face.
  6. erikbojerik, that's a pretty sweet looking picture, good job! Where's the rest of it though? Can you apply tru-oil and then use a poly coat after to protect it? If you did that, how rugged would the finish be? Also, any ideas on how to finish cocobolo?
  7. I have an original guitar design that I'm in the process of constructing. I want to be able to post stuff online without fear of theft, what do I need to legally be able to protect myself should I ever try to market these instruments?
  8. Does anyone have any good pictures of the Tru-Oil? Does the Tru-Oil act as a protective coat? Would you use any other chemicals than the Tru-Oil to maybe seal it or whatever? What finish method/chemicals would give me a good high gloss finish? I'm considering giving the edge a thin black burst effect, any thoughts?
  9. Here's some walnut I'm gonna use for a carved top electric, any finishing suggestions/pics? This is one piece, front and back.
  10. Are you saying that this needs to be connected to earth, like in an outlet? Right now I'm testing my guitar without it being plugged into any amp (just the F/R), and therefore it isn't grounded to my house's ground. Is that causing my problems?
  11. Tons of experimenting has yielded no answers. Plugged into an 8 ohm speaker, the amp produces a constant high pitched whine whether notes are playing or not. This seems to go away after a minute until I touch the strings, bridge, ground etc. and the whine returns. I have a trim pot between pins 1 and 8, should I also have a cap? What would the cap do? Also, I checked out this Ebow Tut and the guy seems to succesfully recreate the ebow using much thinner wire for the driver, 38 gauge. Why does our experimentation revolve around 32 gauge wire? Does anyone know the gauge and impedance of a commercial sustainer?
  12. Trouble shooting question: I've built many drivers and they all are microphonic in that when an amplified sound goes through the coil, it reproduces that signal audibly, like a speaker. This seems to kill the efficiency of it. Specs: the driver is a 3mm thick core, 33 AWG wrapped to 8 ohms, and its about 3mm tall. I get the best response on the high E and B, and I didn't understand why that was until recently and correct me if I'm wrong. I think the reason why I only get response on the two highest strings is because since they're higher in pitch, the amplified signal is less likely to create microphonic problems in the driver, where as when the pitch is lower, it more easily vibrates the coil of the driver, and kills the efficiency so it doesn't vibrate the string. Any thoughts?
  13. With all of our hard endeavors to make EMI cancel out, wouldn't it just be easier to shunt it to ground by wrapping the driver or each pickup with a foil thats connected to ground?
  14. I was planning on using regular candle wax, but then I realized that may melt on a hot day. Is there anything cheap, or common to add to the wax to raise its melting point? Have you ever gotten microphonics with wax potting? Also, I had a new core idea. Basically, you have a hole bunch of adjustable "pole" pieces that essentially act together as a bar style core. That way you can mechanically adjust the response of each of the strings instead of electronically. Here's a pic, tell me what you think. Also, any ideas for where to get the small rectangular pieces? I was thinking if they had squared nails like in the olden days... but any small rectangular piece of ferromagnetic metal should work.
  15. Sorry, I've been out of the loop a while. I just had an idea for potting, Why don't we wind the coils dry and then pot them in wax? It works for pickups, basically you just take an un-potted coil, and soak it in hot candle wax for like 10-20 minutes and the wax fills all the pores. You melt the wax by making a double boiler on the stove and the inner pot has your wax. Just afix the driver so it is covered by the wax, but not touching the metal sides. Take it out, let it dry, Any problems with that? Also, where do you get your magnets from? Can you magnetize any bar of steel? How much is a magnetizer?
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