Wammi

you cant on a flyer. you need to upgrade the cam to a hybrid or pro. the flyer doesnt have an arm clutch. there is no real fix. lok tite works....for awhile.

.680 And... what about the minimum ? Thanks .500

FYI The catalog that comes with all bridges has a 23/7300 template which is exactly the same as a 7 or 8 string but just wider. You simply cut the template in half and spread the 2 halves apart and extend the width lines. Soooo easy.

Thanks maiden for that. FYI The catalog that comes with all bridges has a 23/7300 template which is exactly the same as a 7 or 8 string but just wider. You simply cut the template in half and spread the 2 halves apart and extend the width lines. Soooo easy.

.680

That's an incredibly bad idea. Kahler's have been off the new market for so long that there's probably not very many people around who've used one, much less installed one. Also, yes, a good luthier can do it free hand, but any luthier I'd pay to do it better be using a template. There are few people out there who'll route a pickup route on a Strat without a template. I've noticed that people who build guitars tend to be a lot more detail-oriented than most carpenters and are addicted to their precious cache of templates. Doesn't Floyd Rose and Fernandes include templates with their trems and sustainer systems? We feel its a good idea and i'm sorry you feel that way, but it is what it is. FYI: we have well over 100 established Kahler installers around the USA. And we have about 10 a day coming on board. Many from the past. Also Kahler never was out of business totally. We have been in biz for over 35 years now and were selling the trems to BC Rich and ESP through the 90's as well as Moser MCS and quite a few others. It only re-became a public venue in 2005. The end user couldn't buy one but thousands were sold to OEMS. Mostly custom shops. The parts dept was unmanned during that time. Its old history. Water under the bridge. Wammi

.................................................................................................................................................. Hi, first post! 2300 series 8 string black, Beautiful piece of engineering, v cool design! Do Kahler offer a mdf template for their trems, if not, why not? Much better idea than us making our own , and v inexpensive to do quantities surely? There was no protective card between the fine tuners and the rear 'stop plate'. It arrived with the trem tuners wedged against the rear, the tuners are very abrasive, and there are two areas where the f/tuners are v slightly scratched; ok you can lock it but there is a lot of tension there if your fingers slip while you are doing it and it bangs back, as I found out! Ouch, never been assaulted by a tremolo before! Any news/dimensions on an 8 string lock nut for this one? Opinions, which is the better trem , the 2200 or the 2300? Ta Pete uk! Im sorry to hear that about the tuners. They usually never stick. I have not heard this anyway but, if you email through the proper channels at info@kahlerusa.com we will fix you up. About the news for locknuts...they are available now in 7 and 8 string versions. I have them at http://www.wammiusa.com/5538.html for $79. About the template...Kahler does not offer any templates. It is their belief that they are not needed if you know what you are doing. Frankly I can't blame them. Its happened before and it'll happen again. There are too many young budding guitarists with little woodworking and measuring skills that would gladly try and save a buck or two and try to "wing it" themselves........... and then blame it on Kahler when it doesn't turn out right. That's why this time around, Kahler wants everyone to use a proper Luthier practiced in the art of Kahler placement, mounting and setup. (a good luthier can do it free hand, practically with his eyes closed like Neal Moser of MCS fame.) This way everyone has a good experience. FYI: You can take the 2300 template out of the catalog and cut it in half to extend the straight lines on the width. Then just line up the screw holes on each half. Thats just as good as a template. The 2200 and 2300 are the same. Neither is better than the other. They are different only in the way they mount to your guitar. Wammi

you got it. you just need a bend over the rollers for good contact while divebombing. 10-10:30 is good.

There is not much i can add. From Kahlers standpoint there is nothing to offer, not to say it hasn't been looked into at one time, because it was looked into and experimented with back in the late 80's. But at this time, it is not an option. And honestly i am not an expert at acoustic piezo systems so i cant even start to give you advice, however when i asked someone high up about that question, they said no, it would not work on a Kahler in their opinion.

yes go to 1 inch. keep at 10.30 like guitars. No worries on nut, lube liberally with thick white grease. Works best when strings go straight thru nut to tuners. no fan-out. It will fit secure in the notch of the roller and your fart will smell..er, sound like roses. go for it.

It will, yes. Its not real dramatic but its a bit crisper sounding. I have the 6 the rollers,to change them i push the pin out.......is it reusable or will the pin be ruined,do you sell replacement pins?. Thanks Aharon Here are the instruction for roller replacement..... Tools needed: A hammer. ( the smaller the better) .050 - 1/16” punch to tap out the pin. (jewelers hex driver works great from Radio Shack) A block of steel or metal with a screw hole through it. A small block of wood, preferably soft wood. 1) Unloosen the Phillips screw on the top of the saddle and slide the fork out. 2) Look at both sides of the pin in the fork. Note that one side is smooth and the other looks like it was snapped off. 3) Lay the fork on its side with the forks to the left and with the pin over the hole of the block. Push the pin out by placing the punch on the smooth side and gently tap out. The pin will fall into the hole you made in the block. Save the pin. 4) Remove the roller from the fork. And insert new roller in its place and secure with the pin. BUT FIRST…. 5) Notice the pin closely. One side is sanded and tapered a bit for easy entry. and the other side is simply cut off. 6) Insert pin, tapered end first while twisting and lining up roller. Once through the roller the pin will stop. 7) Lay the saddle on its side on a block of wood and gently tap the pin back in flush with the side of the fork. PLEASE NOTE: the pin will protrude a tiny bit on the other side. It is actually by design, a tiny bit longer and will stick out the far side a tiny bit. THIS IS NORMAL. This is why you want to use a shock absorbent block of wood, this way you can tap the pin flush and it will simply come out on the other side and stab into the soft, protecting wood. 8) Repeat process with all 6 saddles.

It will, yes. Its not real dramatic but its a bit crisper sounding.

No we do not have full recess routing templates. I must stress though, that recessing a strat is not Standard Operating Procedures. I feel you wont have the saddle height to achieve your action if you recess too low. You will need about .600 from saddle top to body. Also if you plan to use the lock feature, a trough will need to be made for allen wrench access to it. I will be interested in the outcome of your experiment. If you want you can simply remove the cam from the frame (it will sit flat then) and use the frame for your outline.

Please stop to consider for a minute ALL that goes into an arm "hole" What about the the arm clutch shaft and the arm clutch cross channel which are different diameter sizes. You have 3 taps to buy, not 1. The arm clutch cross channel needs to be tapped through between the arm shaft and the arm clutch shaft via the bearing cavity. You'll need arm clutch nylon material too which is not sold separately. You'll have to press it in the shaft and re-tap the excess out of the arm hole. Plating may also chip when you tap plated material. A lot to consider when 50 bucks gets you there with a bonus.... The additional $50 gets you an upgraded cam in your choice of steel, brass or aluminum as an tone option. All that, plus the ability to use a Palm or Johnnie bar. By the way... You can bend an arm with a hammer and vise. No need to make one. FYI: The standard #10 stock used by the industry is NOT the stock used for Kahler arms. Thats why fender arms are sloppy in the hole. Our stock is special made....you cant buy it off the shelf.

I admit i am a bit biased, but A Kahler trem is a VERY adaptable trem. You have up, down, left, right, in and out on the saddles. (see specs here: http://www.wammiusa.com/Hybrid_specs.html ) It doesn't necessarily look vintage but it technically is (since '82) thats 25 years so it's a a classic i suppose. lol You said you wanted the arm to stay put. The arm clutch does that. See all the features on this install guide here: http://www.wammiusa.com/Installation_guide.html If you want to hear one live, I will be happy to call you on the phone or better yet...skype or msn you with my PC video camera and give you a E-jam Lol. Privately email me at wammi@wammiusa.com . I will arrange a showing of the range and sound. Wammi