Jump to content

Entry for June 2018's Guitar Of The Month contest is open!
ENTER HERE!

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'les paul'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

  • Instrument Setup
  • Instrument Building
  • Electronics
  • Finishing/Refinishing
  • Inlay and Binding
  • Repair and Maintenance
  • Tools and Workshop Tips
  • Miscellaneous

Categories

  • Guitar Parts
  • Tools and Consumables
  • The Library

Categories

  • Guitar Anatomy Class
  • Workshop and Tools
  • The Tipshop
  • YouTube

Forums

  • Patreon-only Area
    • Season 1
  • ProjectGuitar.com Forum Guidelines and FAQ
    • Community Guidelines and FAQ
  • ProjectGuitar.com Guitar Of The Month
    • Current Guitar Of The Month Contest
    • Guitar Of The Month entry/poll archive
  • Build Area
    • In Progress and Finished Work
    • The Design Bar
  • Tech Area
    • Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
    • Acoustic and Hollowbody Guitar Chat
    • Inlays and Finishing Chat
    • Electronics Chat
    • CNC Chat
    • Tools and Shop Chat
  • General Topics
    • Site Feedback, Issue Reporting and Test area
    • Off Topics Chat
    • Players Corner
    • Put it to a vote
    • The Luthiery Business
    • Public Classifieds Buy-Sell-Trade Area
    • Auction and Website Supplies
  • Forum Tutorials & Reference
    • Solid Body Guitar and Bass Tutorials & Reference
    • Inlays and Finishing Tutorials & Reference
    • Electronic Tutorials & Reference
    • Tools and Shop Tutorials & Reference
    • Miscellaneous Tutorials & Reference

Categories

  • Documents
  • Guitar Drawings
    • Component Drawings
    • Instrument Plans

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Location


Interests

Found 11 results

  1. ShatnersBassoon

    Les Paul build revisited

    Hi everyone! First post on here and hoping someone could fill me in with a little advice. Many years back I started work on a Les Paul guitar. It was made out of Sapele and took a long time to cut out with the Jigsaw! However upon cutting out the basic shape I just gave up and it’s been sitting in my wardrobe ever since. Does anyone have any advice regarding the best template to use so that I can route out the neccessary areas? Any tips in general? Bare in mind some that I only have a very basic and cheap router. Thanks!
  2. Context: I'm fairly new to the ProjectGuitar community, and to guitar building, though I've played for 35ish years, and have been woodworking for 25ish. I've done a few repair/restoration/modification projects on electrics, acoustics and ukes, and am embarking on my first full, from-scratch electric build. I'm building it with my son (which, of course, is super fun for me) who has recently gotten serious as a player, and is interested in learning a little about the build process as well. Here's some shots of the shop, which I recently reorganized to be more guitar friendly (previous focus had been classic car restoration - '74 Fiat Spider, '69 Fiat Spider, '69 VW Beetle). And this is us: What we're thinking: It will be a pretty straightforward Les Paul, though we may take some liberties with the pickup configuration and the headstock design. We have African mahogany for the body base and the neck, maple for the top, and a nicely figured wenge for the fretboard. We might use the wenge to veneer the headstock too, but that's still an open discussion at this point. We're going to do an traditional carve on the top, most likely using the angle grinder with carving disk approach as opposed to the router and sander approach or the gouges and chisels approach. What we've done so far: The build is just getting started. We've been studying plans (and making our own where we need them), making templates and gluing up blanks. We dutifully searched the internet for Les Paul plans and dimensions, and started our design from there. We found most of what we needed, with the exception of good dimensions for the neck. So I extrapolated from what I had and drew up the neck myself. We've made MDF templates for the body, including one to use for routing the body itself, and for the electronics cavities. The other is for routing the weight relief cavities, and the neck cavity. If this build goes well, we have enough mahogany and wenge to make another one, so hopefully these templates will have a future as well. We've cut out and glued up the blanks for both the base and the top. The boards came S3S from Cherokee Wood Products in Upland, CA, and it only took a little tuning with the plane to get the edges flat and square for gluing. What's next on the agenda: Laying out the neck and getting it rough cut from the mahogany board is our next step. The new band saw just came yesterday, so I have some set up and tuning to do on the tool before we put the blade into our good wood, but hopefully by the end of the weekend we'll be ready to start thinking about cutting the body shapes out of those blanks. Hope you'll enjoy following along with us. We'll be glad to hear any input, suggestions and ideas. Cheers! -- se
  3. So i have a Les Paul and it has a buzzing issue. i checked and double checked all the wiring and everything is ok. I have been playing this guitar for a few years and this just happened. So on a whim I plugged in a regular guitar cable and checked to see if the tip and ring were touching with the bing option on my multi-meter. and sure enough there was! the buzz goes away when i am touching any metal parts but there is still continuity on the guitar cable. what is going on??? I spent at least 3 hours on it already. All of the sudden the buzzing is gone. Any ideas?
  4. Well all I am ready to start on my next two project lap steel guitars. I am going to build two concert ukulele size Les Paul style body's. cherry square necks (ala dobro), book matched walnut bottoms, cherry mid body's, one will have a book matched spalted maple top and the other a book matched flamed maple top. One will have an 18 fret 23" rosewood fret board and the other maple. The nut and bridge will be of the roller style, Grover tuners, and the pickups will be P 90 style connected to a Les Paul style wiring harness. But even though they will have Les Paul style body's. They will also be semi hollow body with carved walnut inlayed F holes. I am going to call them buffalo nickel guitars and true to the name, they will have an actual 1910 to 1930 buffalo nickel mounted in each head stock. Oh yes.... a two piece 1/8" binding of cream and black. I have started receiving parts and I am ready to get started. I can't wait. I'm open to ideas, comments, & opinions.... Pictures to come..... Doc FMF
  5. This custom guitar was made by John Woods, a master luthier from southern Oregon. He has built guitars for many years (since 1969 to be exact), including pieces for well-known folks like David Lindley (former player for Kaleidoscope, Linda Ronstadt, Jackson Browne, etc). It has been modeled after a Les Paul Standard, but setup to be wired like a Fender Strat, so you get the best of both! The neck is 1-7/8" wide at the nut (1/8" wider than standard sizing) to accommodate large hands and fat fingers. The pickup and tone/volume control hardware mount through the back of the guitar, leaving the front for viewing the beautiful tiger stripe maple instead of an ugly plastic pickguard. The neck inlays are made of Turquoise, Mother of Pearl, and Pāua Shell. This guitar is truly one of a kind, specifically because of the way it has been laminated together. The black stripe meets up with the solid black on the back of the neck and contrasts with the maple for an extremely striking look. It has all been done with West System epoxy and curly maple (with tiger striping on the outside layer). There's absolutely no way these laminates will ever come apart and the polyester resin finish should never need any kind of maintenance. See the last photo for all the hardware that will be included. You don't get everything (e.g. no pickups, tone/volume control, tailpiece, etc), but this opens up the possibility for you to pick the exact pieces and wire them to your liking. You do get a chrome neck attachment plate, Grover Mini rotomatic tuning machines, screws, back plates (note that one of them has some ink stains), tone/volume knobs, and strap buttons! Really, the photos speak for themselves. The guitar and hardware will be shipped safely and securely in pieces, as you can see in the majority of the photos. $1200 OBO + $50 shipping within the USA. If you want it shipped internationally, let me know and I can give you a quote. I have it listed on eBay & Reverb.com if you want a more secure place to purchase it.
  6. Alright so first off id like to start by saying I do not plan on doing this to deceive anybody, or sell it or any unethical stuff like that, however this is my first guitar. I've had it for about eight years, I,ve had others but always kept this one, I do not have the money to buy a les paul not even a studio but i figure if i spent a couple hundred bucks I could make it close. http://zurlocker.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2007/08/20/white_epiphone.jpg http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/members/ledlover01-albums-epiphone-les-paul-studio-white-picture15172-les-paul-2186.jpg This is what my guitar looks like (only with dr heavy strings and zakk wylde pickups) is it possible for me to take this neck http://www.ebay.com/itm/Guitar-Neck-fits-Gibson-Les-Paul-set-neck-and-LP-style-guitars-PROJECT-/130953075572 and get it on here? ive never done any work on guitars my dads always done it (im 18 now) id have to paint it and somehow learn to silkscreen the decals on it but i think it would be a really cool project can someone tell me if this is possible? or how i could start by going about this i havnt bought anything yet thanks guys
  7. Hello everybody, Im new at this forum and i thought i would share my first LP build with you, I bought a Gibson black back beauty blueprint that is my main influense on this build but with some modifications. This will probably look more like an Esp eclipse when it's done, anyway som specs, the guitarbody is made from mahogny and the top is flamed maple. The neck is going to be maple as well. tremolo will be original floyd rose and seymour duncan black winter set for pickups. Also made my own inlays for this project, turned out quite nice. well what would a build thread be without some pictures?
  8. Electric billets minimum dimension 1-15/16"x7"x19" DROPTOPS 1/4"x7"x19" 10/4-12/4 neck blanks info@thewoodbank.com for pics plum pudding FIDFLEBACK curly BEESWINGS quilted all available lumber is purchased at source in Central America in rough lumber unit sized quantities sold as rough lumber or milled to your specs for guitar parts to minimize waste
  9. I got a 5A flame maple top that looks amazing. I was wondering... a. would you use it as a drop top say on a thinline tele style build or b.would you carve it leaving a 2mm faux binding line??? (maybe use some cream plastic binding) Thanks for the help guys!
  10. Relatively simple project remit - two Les Pauls made from Khaya Mahogany and Karelian Birch. One is to be receive a relic'ed "Gibson-ish" look with a black headplate, faded honeyburst, etc. whereas the other is to be more or less natural and is being made as a surprise birthday present for my wife. Shhh! There are many threads around the net which detail "vintage" Les Paul builds better than I can so I will merely make reference to these rather than rehash the information in them or worse, duplicate contentious information and create more confusion over certain details. The greatest resource of information by far - especially for the carved - has to be Scott Wilkinson's vintage burst build from MLP. Google "exnihilo les paul"! The build is more or less by the numbers according to both Scott's and other people's reference plans such as John Catto, etc. As usual, I redraw all plans in CAD to rattle out any inconsistencies within and between people's measurements to leave myself with one reference source. Variations exist because of people's own interpretation of the "ideal" Les Paul from the instrument(s) they happened to be measuring at the time, plus Gibson's own adjustments and inconsistencies. This really means that there is no real gold standard as such. Apart from a Standard Goldtop which goes without saying. A unified CAD plan also gives me perfect opportunity to take arbitrary measurements during the build process and to tweak things as I want without breaking the way things work together in one design or another. A specific change introduced was my usual inclusion of a zero fret. Apart from being a purely personal preference, I do believe that done well they improve an instrument's playability to a significant degree. Beyond that we are looking at a very Les Paul-ish pair of Les Pauls. Two Khaya body blanks and two Birch tops were glued up and thickness sanded to 46mm and 17mm respectively. I prefer to scarf my headstocks as opposed to creating weak short grain, plus this happens to be more economical in terms of stock availability. The quartersawn Khaya neck blanks were cut slightly long and wide at 612mm x 80mm x 45mm. First order of the day was to get templating. Complicated builds like LPs tend to collect large template sets and I like to spend time making sure these are treated as well or better than the instruments built from them. The first body template locates the centreline (which is on the glueline anyway...a luxury), the upper switch hole location, wiring channel path and the control cavity layout. Rather than cutting these in the template and using a bearing-guided router bit referenced by the template, I transferred the locations and centrepoints and sunk these completely through the Khaya with a 40mm Forstner bit. This deviates from "vintage correctness" but that is not a specific priority anyway. My templates indicate where to draw crossed lines in order to cross-reference the centre point of each drilling location. In the case of the electronics cavity this consists of four lines drawn in a "hash". A simple straight channel connecting the switch hole to the control cavity was routed into the top of each body blank. This also intersects both pickup cavities to facilitate wiring. Two screw locating holes were drilled through the Birch tops in the areas where the bridge pickup and neck tenon will be routed out. Immediately prior to glueup, the mating surfaces of each top and body were thickness sanded down to their destination sizes of 44,5mm and 16mm and blasted clean with compressed air. A good coat of Titebond I was applied to the underside of the top with a notched plastic spreader and dragged over the surface several times with excess glue removed. This helps to ensure the surface is fully penetrated and wetted. The mating face of the Khaya was very lightly misted with water to improve glue penetration. I've found that this method of glueing also reduces the tendency for parts to skate under hydrostatic pressure which is the source of much self-kicking and flying body parts. The centrelines of the tops were aligned to those of the bodies and allowed to set up slightly for a couple of minutes to reduce any movement in the press. The tops were then screwed through to the body and clamped for 30 minutes in the hydraulic press at a pressure of around 50kg/cm² (720psi) and subsequently left at a lower clamping pressure for as long as the timer would allow me to. The clamping time gave me ample opportunity to hunt down a longer bearing-guided router bit. As can be seen, I was only able to work through to around halfway in the Khaya. No matter, and certainly nothing to stop me from moving processes forward. Apologies for the relative lack of photography at this stage. My phone has been deciding to crash at inopportune moments such as during photography. I soon get bored of waiting for it to reboot and crack on with work instead. Standing-Around vs. Busy-Working is little to no competition.
  11. G'day everyone, I'm new, as you can tell by my topic title. An old work colleague comes on here all the time and has built a few guitars in the past, and he's sent me across here to learn and participate. I am about to embark on my first ever build. It should be interesting indeed. Before I fill you in, my set up currently includes: Vox AC30, Gibson SG (61 reissue), Signature series Fender Telecaster (1995), and a bunch of pedals... and this old girl, who is going to be my first victim. She's an old school Epiphone LP-300 - the cheapo Les Pauls that pre-dated the LP-100. She was my first guitar and has sat dormant for over 15 years. So what's the plan? Complete ground up build, including: Active pickups (looking at a set of 60/81 EMG) Bigsby temolo New Wiring Re-finish New machine heads New bridge etc Stay tuned. I would love some advice, and will hopefully become a regular on here and keep you all updated, often. Cheers
×