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Found 7 results

  1. Hi I am currently starting to design artwork for my first homemade guitar. It's a basswood body and I have no idea how to have it painted, what would be the best way to go around this? It will be quite detailed artwork so how would I paint the guitar and be able to play it at gigs without it fading / scraping off? I play grunge or metal depending which of my bands I'm gigging with so lots of jumping around and showing off
  2. I'm currently working on a build for an LP Semi-Hollow Guitar. I was looking around for the finish I want to give it and decided on this. However, I'm not sure what paint Gibson used when they were making this model. Thoughts?
  3. Hi there, I'm completely new to guitar building and have an unfinished custom thinline Tele design body I need to treat and finish. The body is swamp ash and I really want to make good use of the grain patterns and give it a charcoal stain look. I'm aiming for something like the attached photo, if possible. I'm looking for advice for the best way to achieve this and on the stains (brands/colours) to use. If anyone could help me out and point me in the right direction, it'd be much appreciated. Many thanks! Alz
  4. Hi guys, I have a few questions. I want to build a little spray paint booth and I want to ask if any of you have advices for me. My main question is if my intake/exhaust placement makes sense. Right now it is designed to have the air intake at the top and air exhaust at the bottom, opposite sides. Should they both be at the rear of the spray paint booth? The booth size will be 5' x 5' x 7"6", it will be covered with polythene plastic, have 4x 48" neon (Outside the booth of course). I have a a belt-driven fan I plan to run over a ~10 meters 6-8" flexible duct outside. And I will use 12" dust free filters for incoming and outgoing air. I came up with this design reading about dozens of posts, but as you know, there's nothing like personal experience (Which I don't have yet!) Thanks for any advice that can help me start this project on the right foot!
  5. I am rebuilding and repainting a Johnson Strat that I have had since is was 7 (know 19). I am going to repaint it but I need some help figuring out what a ertain design is called or how to do it. The design I am looking for almost looks like really little tiger stripes but faded, no solid. I mostly see it on les paul models, or guitars that dont have a scratch guard that covers most of the body. At Guitar Center's website, their les paul page has a picture of a guitar with this print, but I can not find what the print is called. Here is a link to the Website: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Gibson-Les-Paul-g26549t0.gc?esid=Les%20Paul I have had this guitar for a very long time, but I did not treat it right at the beginning of it's life with me. It has a lot of scratches and dents in it that I will fill, but i was wondering if I would be able to see the filler through transparent paint. As far as I know, the design I want to put on my guitar should be with transparent paint that One wpuld be able to see the wood grain through. Please Help ! Thankyou
  6. Here are the basic tools you will need to get this job done. On the right are a few that aren't necessary but they do come in handy when working on this type of stripping project! Here is why this body is a very good candidate for using a chemical stripper. It has already been refinished by somebody else. Often that can be the case when you're buying second-hand out of a pawn shop or off an Internet auction. These are often really good deals too. Don't be surprised if you run into body imperfections when stripping one that has already been refinished. It is very common and we will deal with how to take care of those issues in another tutorial. If the body has a factory finish, it might not always be an ideal candidate for chemical stripping. Generally the modern paints used in factories are near bullet-proof after curing, and even when you get the top layers off you may well still have an epoxy sealant to deal with. If you want to get through to the wood itself, either strip as much off using this chemical method as possible and then move onto sanding or just sand through the lot. If you're just wanting to repaint the body, stripping the original paint down to an original sealant is a good thing - the factory work is usually a great base to work from! OK let's get started. Wearing your gloves lay the body down on your newspapers and start to paint the chemical stripper over that one side with your disposable brush. We're only doing one side at a time. You need to have a stack of newspaper under your body - you will change it out for every action that you take along this process. Since the grain of the wood in guitar bodies runs from top to bottom and not across, spread the stripper in this direction only. Paint it on working from one end across to the other rather than using a back and forth motion. This ensures that stripper that has already gone to work on the paint isn't being spread around onto fresh areas where it will be less effective. Some of the stripper will run over the sides - this isn't a bad thing since it will help loosen up the paint for when you get to that. Don't worry about it too much, but don't push lots of stripper over the sides as it will just fall off and go to waste. Next comes the most boring part! Cover the face of the guitar you have applied the stripper to with Saran wrap, and just let the body sit coated in stripper for at least 15-20 minutes or whatever the instructions on your product recommends. Go watch TV or listen to the radio - just give the chemical stripper time to do it's job. Don't leave it to sit for an excessive amount of time as it can dry up, become crusty and more difficult to remove than needs be. You may have noticed there is a glass bowl sitting beside the guitar. I used this to pour the stripper into as I am brushing it on to the body instead of pouring directly on. You will get less contaminated stripper if you do the work in sections at a time. It is also a great place to set your brush down and keep it wet while your waiting on the paint to separate from the wood. After you have waited for the required time you can take a plastic scraper and start to lift the paint up off the body, as pictured on the left below. Having two scrapers is useful so that you can remove the junk off the first scraper using your second. Bear in mind that many chemical strippers will soften and deteriorate rubber, so don't use a rubber squeegee or scraper! Metal scrapers risk gouging the wood, so stick to plastic. Be sure to work in the same direction that you spread out the stripper (with the grain of the wood), never against it by going side to side. The simple reason for this is you have a smaller chance of damaging the wood surface and you won't be pushing any of the paint back down into the grain. Now that you have scraped as much paint off as you can, go ahead and re-coat that same surface with another coat of stripper same procedure as the first time. You can let it sit for less time than you did before since it should already be fairly well-coated with the old stripper, which just needs a little "push" from a fresh application. After you have finished giving your body the second coat you can clean off your scraper(s) and paint brush, getting rid of nasty and hard paint debris that doesn't come off from drawing it across the newspaper. HINT: For some of you it may take several coats to get the body looking the way you want it to, be patient and repeat the last few steps over and over till you get to this point. Continue the process of application and scraping paint off the body until it looks pretty much clear of the majority of the paint. Once you think you've got the lot, take a rag or paper towel and clear out the excess from the cavities. Be thorough because the combination of paint and stripper will slowly harden into crusty junk that is very difficult to remove later! Now flip the body over and replace the top layers of newspaper, disposing of them safely. Before proceeding on the next side, make sure that you have a clean workspace so that you can begin the process from the beginning. Clean brushes, scrapers and a fresh bowl of stripper. The only difference is that you probably not have some stripper on the sides already working its magic for you. Just as before you will have to do the body along the grain of the wood and take it off in several layers. Again, wipe off the final remnants of paint with rags or paper towels, and dispose of them properly. Set your body up on a fresh sheet of newspaper, clean your workspace and get ready to do the sides. At this point you shouldn't have to brush that much stripper on the body since it has likely been dripping down from the top and bottom! Scrape away any loose paint and contaminated stripper first. Apply fresh stripper around the sides and scrape paint away until your entire body is clear. Now comes the easy part! Once you have wiped all the excess paint away from the body you can either lightly sand remaining paint from difficult areas or give your body an acetone bath. That's right - Acetone! It evaporates quickly, doesn't leave a residue, plus it works wonders in removing paint from wood grain. Once it evaporates, the body is safe to handle without gloves. Bear in mind the most important safety aspects of working with Acetone. It evaporates quickly and produces a LOT of hazardous fumes which are both explosive and dangerous to breathe. Read the safety notes on the container! Here are the basic rules to follow: Pick a place with more than adequate ventilation, your health is more important than the job.Wear your safety gear (skin and eye protection is important with strong chemical strippers which can burn and blind you instantly).Take your time and be sure to let the stripper do its job. Read the instructions!Start with a day where you have plenty of time to complete the work without having to come back to it another day.Keep changing newspapers as you do each step giving you a clean and organised area to work in.Clean your scraper often.Lifting the paint off the body is easier and better than just pushing it around.Be prepared to take as many breaks as needed. This is potentially dangerous work and keeping focus is important in carrying it out safely!Anticipate problem areas and work around them, you can save these for last.Always walk away for awhile if the job becomes to much. Seriously it can wait.(Editor's note: Never be tempted to blow chemical stripper from out of pickup leg routs with compressed air. Ask me why.)
  7. First of all this will work using any spray paint method be it from a can, air brush or paint gun so don't worry about having to purchase expensive equipment. You will need: Trace out your guitar body onto reasonably-thick card as shown below then cut out your template. Place push pins around the template at least 1" from the sides for support. Placing your template on the guitar body use pennies, nickels or quarters (washers if you genuinely are a PoorBoy) taped in tubes as weights. The idea here is to hold the template down on the guitar body. Be sure that the template is aligned with the edge of the body all the way around. Now you can begin to paint! Remember that you need to keep an evenly spaced view of the body as you move around. Importantly, keep the nozzle of your spraying apparatus at least 18" or more away from the template. Too close and you could bend the horns or blow it away! Also, the closer you get with the nozzle, the sharper the edge of the spray will be as it hits the body. The distance makes the burst softer. Let it dry completely before removing the template. There you go! A beautiful burst every time with a nice fanned edge =o) With a little practice you can do multiple colors at different depths from the edge of the body. Ever wondered how to go from a shiny metallic, bright or dark burst edge to the middle and keep relatively the same hue of translucence color on your body? Here's a few tips which may help: Metallic looking edges are made by applying a silver burst around the body, then painting the entire body in a translucent color of choiceBright looking edges are made by applying a white or light-colored burst around the body, then painting the entire body in the translucent color of choiceMedium to dark edges are made by applying a medium to dark gray burst around the body, then painting the entire body in the translucent color of choice
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