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Found 3 results

  1. Hi friends. I've sanded the damaged resin finish from the top of my nylon guitar. Ended up overdoing it, and the more I tried to mitigate the harm done, the worse it got. These ugly blots emerged. I'm now looking for ideas of what to do to make it nice again. Is there some kind of sealer or something that would retain the wood but get rid of the blots? Or maybe would it be better to glue a layer of veneer and then refinish it? What would you do:? It's an old and cheap guitar, but it is surprisingly good and stood the test of time bravely, Thanks in advance!
  2. Hey guys. I haven't done a build thread before, but decided to start one in any case. I've been working on the cheap family classical guitar that we brought from South Africa (nothing special). Unknown brand "Angelica". I haven't done any sanding/gluing or any other type of DIY work before really, hence why I decided to start on this. I'm still busy with it, but thought I'd share some photos of the transformation. Before photos - lots of dings and scratches, headstock was cracked that I roughly fixed before: Will upload some more soon
  3. Hi all, Short story: I decided to strip down the finish and refinish my guitar. Here are the photos before striping: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6b0bkj9vgt795km/AADyQtWYlBZr82v-V0SFkisza?dl=0 It looks like this now: (I still have to work on some areas) http://postimg.org/image/tc9nchhvv/ I have no idea to be honest how to finish it now... my only idea is to make top whitey, so I would get dark brown sides and white top, like cofee and milk, I think it would look nice and original. This is side shot, it doesn't show real color, but I'd like if my guitar looked like that: http://postimg.org/image/f8ds43aob/ Unfortunately it looks like this: http://postimg.org/image/tc9nchhvv/ it's more like pink/salmon/light brown color. I'm not experienced at finishing with lacquer, and I don't have proper tools, dust free environment etc. I'd like to finish it using polishing paste, though I'm not sure if I will be able to get same results as applying paste to sanded down/matte poly (probably not). I don't need mirror gloss as I won't et that, just some solid shine. Now my questions are: 1) there are some black spots in wood grain. I guess I would need to sand it down to get rid of them. I don't want to do this, as guitar is thin already and I'm not good at this, can I fill them with black wood filler? (after sanding, some pores/grain have been cleaned up) 2) considering that I want to finish the top with white stain, how and when should I apply black wood filler? I've read that some people apply clear coat (varnish) before using filler, and this results in filling gaps and not staining whole body to black. 3) The polishing paste I'm using is not "cut" style, I mean it does add some layer but it doesnt "take off" original finish. Will polishing paste work on stained body, or do I need to cover it with some protection (varnish layer) first? Is simple clear poly ok? Can I just use some brush to apply thin poly coat and sand it? Will it work with nitro? (there's still original nitro finish on sides). I am afraid that I could mix black wood filler with white stained body when I will polish the guitar. I have nitro lacuqer at home, also Tru Oil (birchwood casey) and gun oil. I had quite good results when i used Tru-oil on almost raw maple neck of Peavey Wolfgang, though it's quite sticky and I had to apply multiple layers during a few days. I don't want to use nitro as I just use simple products for polishing guitars which work very good on poly. Ive never used wood stain or filler, just refinished some tops with polishing paste. Long story: I own some guitars and usually I use polish K2 polishing paste (I let it dry then slowly and lightly work it out) to restore superb clean look of poly-finished guitars. It's similar to more known Druchema, but in my case Druchema leaves scratches. Other products like Gibson Pump Polish or GHS cleaner, Martins etc just clear the guitar, they don't offer any protection, imho. I have no experience at all, but I've learned to do it so in the end i don't even get swirl marks visible under light. For example: before https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lmmeatzjs8rc4lc/AABazmjJuXzq6VOaTFVrbXcza?dl=0 I've sanded down the finish to matte poly (so not direclty to wood): after https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kx2ii4qyvj6cmwx/AADfy_aY-KKJvoI48r_RDvfYa?dl=0 Unfortunately this is only temporary effect, as my polishing paste probably contains some wax, and after some days light scratches are visible again. Anyway, to the topic: - I've always had problem with polishing nitro on Gibsons. I can "clean" them with Gibson Pump Polish or other products, but I can't make them look better (cover some scratches). The problem I'm having is that polishing pastes/produts leave some clouding on nitro when not worked out properly (which is hard for me). So I decided to buy Meguiars #9 swirl remover (no silicone) and #7 show car glaze (no silicone). I had matte/faded Gibson SGJ and I didn't like matte finish (in some spots it was shiny, some not etc). I decided to use #9. After wiping it off, it looked nice. But after it dried, after some hours - Meguiars filled open grain with white and left some matte film. I could get rid of this film but then after some times it was back again. So I decided to strip down the finish.. I wanted to buy Virtuoso Premium Polish but it's ridiculously expensive in Europe after adding shipping price. Sorry for any mistakes I made, English isn't my first language, also for long post, and hurting my guitar. I could get it to professional but SGJ itself wasn't so expensive and I don't trust many of local guys (also long story)
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