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Found 20 results

  1. so officially starting up my next project... 3 teles. Working on templates for now, and have setup my body blanks... but figured I'd kick the build thread off. so first up... "The Broadchaser". Planning this to be sort of a 'modern classic' - vintage looks with modern electronics (more than likely 6 way rotary). The main milestone here will be doing a relic finish. This one I'm calling the "Gipsum Les Flaws". Sort of tongue in cheek - not sure if I'll stick with the inlay/name as I don't want to anger the gods... but this should be a carved flame top over a quilt maple body... laminated set neck, 27.5" scale length baritone. finally, what I'm calling the "Tuxedo". 30" radius top and bottom. Semi hollow. that's what I'm aiming for anyway. As always all comments, questions, jokes, asides, bedtime stories, laughs at my expense, completely unrelated content - welcome in my thread. ===========update 11/29/19 10am ===================== so almost done with all my templates, but waiting on some 1/8" straight bits for headstocks, fholes and other detail items. here are my three body blanks weighed in at the start... first up the baritone 'les flaws'. I bought this body on craigslist for $40... it's solid quilted maple and was already hogged out. needs a little tlc on the shape and the centerline is about 1/8" off. Thought it'd be ideal for a baritone as the maple is hard and bright and lower notes will benefit in tightness. this one will be the 'tuxedo' blank. and finally the broadchaser blank at 1 15/16 weighing int at a hefty 8lbs 6oz. here is a blank I made up of a wenge center with flamed maple outters. both the les flawes and tuxedo necks will come out of this piece. below that is a heavily flamed piece I'm using for the broadchaser. here are the 'les flaws' and tuxedo blanks cut apart and planed down rough. "If they don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy" -redgreen. Started working wood last night on my "broadchaser". So with that in mind I hope to learn something here and perhaps someone else will find it useful. How much weight will I reduce by doing 'x'. So below is a series of picks detailing my tele body weighed at differing points. My ash isn't as light as I thought (apparently my estimate was off a bit) so I figure I need to get it down in the 4-5 lbs weight range at the most. taking off 1/4" of wood dropped it down from 8lbs 6oz to 7lbs 9.4oz. cutting it to shape took me from 7lbs 9.4oz to 6lbs 12oz cut my pickup and control cavities to 1 1/4" depth... in hopes of removing as much weight as possible... that took me from 6lbs 12oz down to 6lbs 6.3oz I could still remove a little off the back and get down to 1 1/2", and I think I will, but I'm guessing that isn't going to remove enough... so now I have to build a template to make a smugglers route. Since I have to do that anyway, I've decided I'm going to go back to a single coil in the neck and do a 'hidden' coil just under the pickguard and just in front of the bridge so I can keep my wiring interesting. =============update 11/30/19 ============================ hogged out some smugglers route and got down to 6lbs 0.5oz in the cleanup looks like we eliminated another 6oz for a total of just under 12oz removed. cut the join for my les flaws top... glued it up my join turned out really nice - more due to the extra time taken to ensure a flat edge with shims and some hardwood with notches that were sitting underneath. here's the bottom - hand sanded for less than 5 mins to get it clean so must've done it right. did a wire channel in the body for the pickups/toggle but the neck tenon will close this up partially, will have to reroute that section once the neck is on. hardest thiing I've done so far... not that it's spectactular or anything... but getting this right really challenged me and too a long time! alternate headstock shape for the les flaws. really pleased with this top. this is one I got from downhomewoods and have had it for quite a while... just realizing now it's actually quarter sawn. not sure how easy it is to see... but it's got some really cool shimmering fleck. ===========update 12/2/19========== got to work on the tuxedo... finally broke the 5lb barrier with the back trem route: the les flaws weigh in... the current state of affairs: apparently something going on with my initial post... i don't know if this is like this for anyone else... but the last few images won't load. not sure what's going on there but it's making me really sad. can't update that post anymore either. some sort of link to this image below that keeps getting restored... oh well. I'm aware it's a dup! a vid of my progress and a song... could say I'm a song and dance man now... =========update 12/3/19=========== just a few minor things... planed down my broadchaser body another 3/16 and ended up just a hair above 5lbs... started working on the back access and cover routes for the les flaws =============update 12/08/19================ put my steps in 4lbs 10.5oz did my neck joint on the tele... nice n tight: put the 1/8" roundover on and got the pickguard aligned and it follows the horn nice... rough cut my my steps for the tele carve My neck angle jig slipped again and I screwed up my blank for the tuxedo... so I ended up building a new sub-jig for the neck angle. Bolts on either side of the pivot bolt allow me to dial in the angle with precision and they lock themselves in position. worked like a charm! put the angle on the les flaws w/o issue: so when life gives you lemons... switch to quarter-sawn mahogany! on the tuxedo blank, I could have saved it by cutting my nut slot 1/16 deeper as the angle only ran about 1/8-1/4" into the fretboard area but I figured rather than do that I'll save it for my next gibson scale neck. I was only using that blank because I had enough material leftover from the neck for the baritone... and it hadn't occurred to me that I have some 3x7 mahog that would allow for a quarter sawn neck given the tux's narrow profile. So I milled that down today... ============ update 12/9/19 =============== got a lot done today and can barely type at this point... got my neck machined for the tuxedo... here's how I cut the neck pocket for the tuxedo... nice tight fit started working on a radius for the internal route... but quit pretty quick. I need a long bit with a bearing and a very short cutting edge. was scary because you can't see anything and with the bit I had -as I cam to the center the bearing would be out of range. so save that for next time. you can see here I just did a little corner... went back in and carved it deeper with my bowl bit since I'm not doing the radius route. then started my outter radius and about 19 passes later... so setup up on the backside... and another 19 passes later... this thing is COMFY! ==============update 12/15/19 ================ put some tru oil on the innards of the tux... did the neck holes for the tux did the neck holes for the broadchaser... then did a lil video of joining the top for my tuxedo here is the result: put in my f-hole in just 974 easy steps! and switched back to carving my les flaws: wow, much more work than I thought! should have done more steps (next time). ======================update 12/28/19====================== awaiting some parts and kind of left to all the minor details of my builds for the time being, so thought I'd spend some time on my plans for electronics: first up: the tuxedo. going to be using a seymour vintage stack for the bridge, and a 4 way tele switch. I have a 4 way in a tele and didn't realize until recently that the two middle positions where NOT the two combined positions... so I changed this on my version as I prefer Bridge, BN Parallel, BN Series, Neck. Also set it up so that the bridge will be in stacked humbucker mode in pos 1, but split for the two combined positions 2 and 3. Figured it might be nice to go back to single coil for the bridge position so I've got a push pull that will accomplish that, and also swap between 50's and 60's style tone control with the lead for the tone swapping between the pickup side and the jack side. next up is the broadchaser: I'm putting a hot rail in the 'hidden' middle position so that I can use either rail for hum cancellation. That rail is a bit mismatched with the bridge which should allow the bridge pickup to dominate for a little less hum cancelling but a little more bridge flavor. Using a 4 pole 3 throw switch here for stock tele operation plus two additional modes: parallel humbuckers and series humbuckers. finally, the les flaws: I don't generally tend to care for the split singles by themselves from a humbucker, and the humbuckers I'll be using are sentient/nazgul which (I'm told) don't sound great split anyway... so I figured I'd do a simplified version of my signature "all combos" wiring... and just focus on the 4 humbucking combos: bridge-vs-neck-parallel, inside-vs-outside-parallel, inside-vs-outside-series, and bridge-vs-neck-series. Going to etch a pcb to keep the wiring of the 4p4t clean. Using a unique alph 4p4t switch that is fairly small... might have some issues getting it fitted in the carved top but... will cross that bridge. Also planning an active mid boost mounted on a push pull for this one... I have a jackson preamp etch lying in wait, and an sho... but I loved the 'switchblade' in my sweet spot build so much I might etch another of those... haven't decided. ================update 12/29/19================== shot of my setup to add the taper to the back of my necks. I started out with a common neck profile drawing for a late 50s tele. I have marked the neck with the depth from the top down at the first fret and the 12th fret... then I set the depth of the router to go right up to the mark at the 1st fret... and raise the other side of my planing rails until the blade of the router lines up with that mark. and here's the product of putting in that plane... and he is my tuxedo neck with the grade planed in. shaped my neck for the les flaws... my first experience with wenge and sharp corners right on end grain. installed my truss rod for the tuxedo... and installed my truss rod for the broadchaser: decided I would use some offcuts from my tuxedo top to join together for a headstock overlay: cut the 4 degree slope in my les flaws... had to go snag some 6" bolts to get the correct rise/run... then feathered that into the rest of the body: did a test fit for my 4 way switch on the tuxedo and found I needed to remove a little more material... also have carved in my belly cut and neck transition (will show that later)... final weigh in before adding the top: so was thinking tonight... about a jig I might make to cut the 94 degree cut into the back and sides of the neck where it meets the body and it occurred to me...why not just make it easy on myself and cut a 90 degree transition from the 4 degree plane? This would be 86 degrees relative to the body. Then I can simply make all my cuts on the neck at 90 degrees. Skip the need to build a jig, skip that pesky sanding to match the angle... and since this isn't a traditional les paul build... no reason to not hit the easy button. Here's my 86 degree line: ==============update 12/04/2020============== started work on the broadcaster finish. wanted to document my steps here as who knows... might turn out good. grain fill: finish sanded to 320, made up some grain fill using some rit camel die... sort of a chocolate milk color. generally with ash, and with this grain filler, it's going to take a few passes of grain fill as the filler recedes. In this case... I don't want to totally fill the grain, so I'm going to do one pass. sanded back the grain filler and prepared for first coats of laquer. two light coats of mohawk whitewash laquer. since the grain is not fully filled... the whitewash sort of 'dissapears' into the heavier grain. works to my benefit here as it's keeping the grain more visible which I like, however it's still so open that I decided to do another grain fill but this time clear. my plan is to let the grain fill sit overnight and sand it back. have a couple spots that got a little too much white so will feather those out as well. did did my binding channel on my les flaws. Piece of binding seen here sitting just a hair proud in the neck join area. and worked on my broadchaser neck... used a chamfer bit to get my first facets done... then completed those facets with my rasp: completed a secondary facet... hard to see here but I have drawn lines down the center of the neck to show me where the facet ends... from there I approximate a 67.5 degree chamfer. this neck will have a vintage spec soft v... have owned a hard v but it was a bit much... thought this might be a nice pairing with the 9.5" radius fretboard. Here's a shot of her all sanded up... =================update 1/10/20========================= slapped some frets on the neck... amber dye here is looking pretty orange but a lot of that is my camera... sneak preview of my butterscotch body in the corner... ==============update 01/11/20================= did some relicing to the hardware... control plate was the first thing I did and started out with fine steel wool to remove protective coating but it didn't do enough damage so switched to coarse... that was clearly too much! Not crazy about how it turned out so will redo that... and didn't realize the knobs are a hair small for my pot shafts so will have to order some replacements. All in all it went ok. wired up my broadcaster controls. again no tone control here. have a middle hot rail hidden under the pickguard that will be used for hum cancelling. mode 1 will be std tele operation. 2 will be the tele pickups operating as parallel humbuckers with each one paired with a single rail. mode 3 will be the same but in series. the vero board there is just a common place for all my pickups to be wired to. In case I've got something wrong I just swap the positions and don't (in theory) have to screw with my heatshrinked wires. ==================update 01/12/2020===================== some shots of the body... looking pretty tan in this light... inner binding - and one picture says it all in terms of frustration! side note - did you know binding is easily set on fire via heat gun? binding the headstock overlay was seemingly easier comparably! ============update 1/19/20=============== note to self... next time separate the builds into a post each... pretty hard to follow 3 disparate builds! finished and bount my les flawes headstock. got a couple little spots at the points that will require some attention but pretty solid. got the top on for the tuxedo... the f hole is fully bound, top trimmed, binding channel cut just after this. working on adding the body binding now. On the radius for the top, I left a flat spot for the tele style trem king... was concerned I'd have little gaps as it transitioned from flat to radius (I broke them lightly) - but it turned out good. have 1 little spot where I didn't get glue squeeze out because I was a little too conservative with glue but pretty minor. took my pickguard and heat bent it over the body no problem. routed out the neck pocket (little overhang on the pickguard) and the p90 slot for it. ============01/25/20=============== got the binding on the tuxedo... got some inlay done... but funny thing happened. turns out this 25.5" scale length fretboard has fret slots from a 24.75". the must have put the slots in the wrong one... (or perhaps I ordered a 24.75sl board. oh well. could order a new one and some new inlay... but this is an opportunity to try a 24.75sl on a tele... so think I'll go back to my orig blank and make that work. (mmmm, lemonaid). gold mop on granadillo and white mop on ebony... also, finally got my broadcaster to check... check please! remember, it's not the size of your check that matters... ===========update 1/28/20=================== +++++++++++++++++++++update 2/15/20 ================= So... back b4 finishing the broadchaser I had realized I bought a 24.75sl fretboard instead of a 25.5 (for the tuxedo). well I got this far on it before I realized... did a gold mop logo for the les flawes and white mop for the tuxedo... test mounting my neck for the les flawes Just a hair of a gap at the outter edge of the corners on the back edges here - the side joints are solid right up to the last 3/16 and I think I'm going to be removing most of that with rounding up that area... so pretty satisfied with the join. made a fun video about the neck join... mock up w the fretboard did you spot it yet? (below) ================== 02/27/20 ======================= getting close... =============================== did my wireup for the tuxedo... etched some random pcbs for everything from a guitar mounted brian may treb boost to a haz lab bass pre to amz mini boost and ovation piezo preamp and even some labeled pickup panels... did my truss channel for the les flawes... did my fretboard truss access and glued her on using hot glue gun and blocks to get it center. worked pretty good. also got my frets on...shaped the neck for the les flawes using the facets method loosely as I always do... just using 3 measurements to do 3 facets... and I come out with the profile matching w/o even trying... ============================================update 3/29/20==========================
  2. Hi guys (and gals)! I am not just new to this site, but to guitar building as well. I have created a YouTube channel ( https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6U6BfZTF3u_K2G-rql_HsQ ) to document my progress. Once I complete a build, it will be given away to one of my subscribers who comments on at least one video of the build series. I am certain I will make mistakes and do things differently from how the awesome luthiers on this site would and I welcome your feedback. The first video is a review of the inexpensive kit I am using for my first build. You can see it here. I look forward to your comments and critiques.
  3. Hey, totally new here and to this! I’m going to cut straight to the point. The other day I made a spontaneous buy off EBay. A Baldwin Epoch Les Paul “ by Gibson” Body only. I want to build my next guitar, I’m starting with a low budget and if it turn out good and I’m good at it I’ll make a better more expensive one in the future. After researching the guitar after buying the body, I noticed a guy in America has actually used this body on a build of his own. He put a telecaster neck onto it which looked great and I’m a sucker for a telecaster. The thing that kept going through my head was “ the scale” I think a telecaster is 648mm and a Les Paul is 628mm? On a Chinese site I found a telecaster neck which states it 628mm. Can anybody advise me if this will work?? thanks
  4. Hi there, I'm completely new to guitar building and have an unfinished custom thinline Tele design body I need to treat and finish. The body is swamp ash and I really want to make good use of the grain patterns and give it a charcoal stain look. I'm aiming for something like the attached photo, if possible. I'm looking for advice for the best way to achieve this and on the stains (brands/colours) to use. If anyone could help me out and point me in the right direction, it'd be much appreciated. Many thanks! Alz
  5. So I've finally started on my first ever guitar build. "Nozcaster" = a bit of Nocaster + derivative of my nickname "Norris" I have joined a guitar building "club" that meets for 2 hours on a Monday night, and for my weekly subscription I get access to a lot of people who have built before and a lot of machine tools that I don't have at home (and trade prices for most of the parts!). Due to a large amount of household DIY on the go, plus a wife that is keen for me to get on with that, progress on the guitar will be a little slow & steady for the time being. For my first project I have chosen something relatively simple - my own take on a thinline telecaster. However I'm then going to complicate things a bit by doing some carving on the top, binding all round, and using fountain ink as dye (check out the lovely colours made by Diamine - I have gone for "Florida Blue"). I've spoken to a few people that have used ink as dye, and they have got some very good results and say it is colour-fast and won't fade. Specifications are pretty much standard telecaster, but I'll be making a two piece neck with dual action truss rod that adjusts at the nut. Unfortunately the chap that was going to lend me some plans forgot to bring them on week one, so I ended up drawing round a US telecaster that my mate (guitarist in my band) has lent me for the duration. I managed to get one template roughed out of 6mm MDF, that I then tidied up at home and used to route another 2 templates. Week One - Some templates And then this week I got wood English light ash for the back of the body (apparently the same species as swamp ash) - before I squared it up Flamed maple top piece - squared up ready to join (and showing quite nice figuring even when dry) The gluing will have to wait until next Monday.The neck pieces were just ordered as plain maple, although the main neck shows a smattering of birds eye whorls.
  6. Hi everyone! This is my first post - and first build - so bear with me if I'm still learning! In summary, my uncle has offered me a guitar body that he made and routed before he retired as a carpenter; I haven't seen it yet, but I'm told it has a Tele-shaped basswood body, with body cuts and is routed for a floyd rose bridge and 4 pickups - two humbuckers at the bridge, and two single coils at the neck. I've been looking into what to do with this, and I decided that it would be fun to try and fill all four routs, however, my experience regarding guitar wiring is limited at best, and this is not a design I can simply find a standard wiring guide to online! A friend of mine is able to help me with a lot of the basics - he suggested 4 individual pickup switches might work better than one rotary 7 way switch - but I'm not too sure how to connect it all up. So really, I have the following questions: I'm looking at the Rolling Mill (PAF) and Steel Foundry (Tele) pickups from Iron Gear, but would you suggest that having a bridge-neck, bridge-neck arrangement would work? Would these pups fit together? And secondly, theoretically, without seeing the guitar, how would you wire this kind of arrangement? I should be getting the guitar this week, so when I do, I'll upload some photos for you all to look at. Otherwise, I'm open to any and all suggestions about where to go with the project - thanks in advance for any help you can give! Oliver.
  7. I'd like to have a Rosewood Thinline Tele with Bigsby. For cost consideration it could be from parts such as Warmoth. The neck need not be rosewood (ebony?). In fact if there's a wood with good vertical grain a stained guitar would be fine. (And yes, I realize the pickguard is covering the F hole but I far prefer this pickguard style (perhaps the screw hole can move a half inch to the center and the old hole filled). Cost?
  8. Been playing with some different patinas on copper pickguards for Telecaster and have really liked some of the results lately. The issue I'm having is that most clear coats that I've tried tend to dull the colors or at least alter them in some way. The copper gets more bronze-like and the colors get less intense etc, which is a real bummer. Any suggestions for a coat that won't affect my finishes? Thanks, Doc Holladay
  9. Hey all, new to this site and hoping someone on here can help a brother out! Yesterday I replaced the bridge pickup in my telecaster (a Seymour Duncan Hot Rails) with a Rio Grande Vintage Tallboy (single coil), and I have since lost all connection in Bridge and Middle positions. I redid the solders, and to no avail -- still no signal coming through. The switch is brand new as well, and it was all working before I took the Hot Rails out, so I am at this point dumbfounded as to what the problem may be. When I was troubleshooting, I came across this -- when I am in the Middle position, I am getting signal from the neck pickup as long as the hot wire from my bridge pickup is not touching the switch. The moment I touch the hot wire from my bridge pickup to the switch, the signal gives out. Does this indicate a short circuit? Hoping someone on here has some experience they could share, or any ways I could troubleshoot this to see what the issue is. Thanks for your time -- any assistance is appreciated.
  10. I'm starting up a solid walnut Telecaster Deluxe build. The body is English walnut sides with Black American walnut center stripe. The top will be a goldtop with black pickguard and hardware. P-90 pickups with deluxe style controls. The neck will be Black American Walnut with a Rosewood board. Currently I have the body wood milled down, glued up, and rough cut to shape. The routed to shape. Got the neck milled down and roof cut. Then routed to shape and installed a Paduak skunk stripe. I will be updating this thread throughout the entire build.....
  11. Hey Everyone! Welcome to my new thread on my first proper guitar build! I've been designing this for a while and I'm currently doing an accurate drawing of what it will look like. I had help from people like @ScottR, @curtisa and more to progress in my design and make it better. So thank you to all of them. Here is the link to that thread. Just so you know, I have experience with woodworking and others so I'm not going into this with nothing. The Design So I have been designing off of a telecaster, shape wise, as I have always loved the shape. Other guitars I have designed from include a PRS, Gibson and one of my current guitars, a Lag Arkane. It is a 25" scale with 24 Frets. To start this whole project off, I drew round my Lag Arkane body to get a rough outline. Then I shaped the guitar from that, adding the Telecaster shape. The headstock I designed off a PRS and a guitar that an old guitar buddy was given, a Seraph Sabre. Look him up, Jon Beedle. Here's the original rough design shape of both guitar and headstock. After I got the rough design, I attempted at creating an accurate design however it failed because of improper measurements. So I scrapped it, you can see it in the other thread. The Hardware and other stuff Wood I've been looking into different kinds of wood for this guitar, however I finalised on Black Korina for the body. I made this decision because 1 I like the wood and 2 I can get my hands on it quite easily! I'll need two halves of it so I can route out the middle of the guitar and then glue the top over it (If that makes sense). For the neck I was thinking just Mahogany as I have a lot of very old mahogany to use. It's about 200 years old! and then an ebony fretboard. Electronics I'm thinking humbuckers, don't know what yet (leave suggestion if you wish) but one in the bridge, one in the neck. I was looking into P90s but i'd rather use pickups I'm familiar with at first. I will have the input on the front, like an SG with two Tone and a Volume Knob. I'm hoping to use a Gibson switch as my selector for pickups. Other Stuff The bridge is cheap (£16) but I don't wast anything expensive at the moment. I got it from Northwest Guitars. It's a hardtail and it's chunky which is what I wanted. Currently up to this day I only have this. The Build Last night, 18/02/17, I embarked on a new adventure. I had the advice of people on the other thread, had the equipment, had the pride so I set off drawing a new design. I started by placing my ruler down on the table and drawing out a beautifully straight 25" line for my High E to nut scale. I then made a mark where the 24th fret will be and drew a line 90 degrees to it (you'll see in the pictures) and then added 3mm and that is where my pickup shall go. At the Bridge end of the scale length, I got my bridge that I bought and measured it up to the line with my High E. (My High E saddle is protruded 85%-ish-of the way out). I then went about sketching around the bridge. Then I took the Saddles off the bridge and drew the 5 holes where the bridge is screwed on and then the 6 holes for the strings-see images. From there, I got the measurement from E to E which was 54mm and added 4mm to each side. From there I drew a line from the middle marks on the bridge to the Nut in order to get the fretboard width. As shown in the first few drawings. Upon starting this at 11;25 on 19/02/17 this is all I have done. I plan on finishing this drawing soon and then buying the wood and starting!! Next I am going to mark the humbuckers and draw the body shape and headstock.
  12. so, my Ibanez -customizing project has turned into a first build project, so I started a new topic. over the years I have done some customizing: routing for humbuckers, replacing a crappy trem with a Floyd, refretting and radiusing necks. Never have I built a body from scratch , so I'll categorize this as my first build, eventhough I'm reusing the Ibanez neck I have re-radiused and will be refretted. The specs: Tele - style Mahogany body with 6mm Zebrano top (ordered) Dimarzio Paf Joe and Paf-pro humbucking pickups Edge floating trem 1 Volume, 1 Tone (push pull) for single coil switching on custom control plate 250mm radiused neck with zebrano headstock finish no pickguard I've found some online plans for a Tele 72 custom which I've printed out to create a template from. have drawn the routings for the edge trem and humbuckers. The plan is to put the pickup selector in the lower horn. I'd like to find or create a nice custom control plate. Still need some inspiration for that. Here's some pics. Including one of my professional guitar parts storage. wood is on order, I'll get some MDF to make some routing templates from as well. I'm also thinking of making my own control knobs on my old man's lathe. Still thinking about a particular style for the control plate and knobs. to be continued
  13. Hello all! So I spotted this sweet little kit that the previous owner had painted, and for the price I couldn't resist... Since I'm just not the kind of guy to just leave stuff well alone, I was thinking about converting the kit to a headless one. I'm thinking I would just chop off the head and screw a clamping bracket just after the nut. I was looking at some cheap Chinese bridges on AliExpress since the kit doesn't really warrant the money I'd spend on a top notch setup (not sure how to determine compatibility.) Any input would be appreciated and I'll post more pictures when I dig into it. inspiration
  14. Telecaster TEXAS SPIRIT ТЕЛО Форма корпуса: Telecaster Материал корпуса: ольха Тело Top Материал: 0.16 "(4 мм) деревянные мозаичные (мербау, черное дерево, зебрано, вишня, орех, бакаут) Корпус Отделка : Gloss Уретановый ШЕЯ Шея Материал: Японский пепел Шкала Длина: 25.5 "(648 мм) Шея Форма: "C" Shape Накладка Материал: комбинированный индийский палисандр и черное дерево О О Накладка Радиус действия: 9,5 "(241 мм) Количество ладов: 21 Негодуй Размер : Medium Jumbo СИНТОМС Позиция Вкладки: кактусы маркетри палисандр и жемчужные на 12 череп - м ладу Гайка Ширина: 1.650 "(42 мм) Анкерный стержень: двухсторонняя анкера Шея Отделка: Gloss Уретановый ЭЛЕКТРОНИКА Мост Самовывоз: Rio Grande Мюи Grande Tele Мост Самовывоз Шея: Rio Grande Толбой Tele шеи Органы управления : Master Volume, Master Tone Переключение: Dimarzio EP1105 3-позиционный клинка: 1. Позиция мост Самовывоз, 2. должность Мост и шеи Пикапы, 3. Позиция Шея Pickup Конфигурация: SS HARDWARE: Мост: по индивидуальному заказу Построено "Пепельница Урожай" Тарелка мост ЛАТУНЬ Колки: KLUSON® СОВРЕМЕННЫЕ DIECAST ТЮНЕРЫ - 6 IN LINE - ЗОЛОТО Ручки управления: по Построено индивидуальному заказу из латуни Шея Плита: Построено по индивидуальному заказу из латуни
  15. I have just completed my first electric. It's a Lap Steel Guitar loosely based on a Fender Telecaster. Thus the name Fenderesque Tele Lapster. The neck/body are made from a cherry board that I have saved since the early 1980's for a special project and the fret board is flame maple. The components are aftermarket tele parts and a roller bridge & string guides. I decided to go "strings through body" for longer sustain. The cherry lends itself to a very bright yet rich tone. I have her tuned to C 6th tuning at this time but I am considering changing the strings for an open D tuning for blues and country music. Besides I already have a C 6th lap steel for Hawaiian and rock use. I would welcome any comments on my latest project. DocFMF
  16. Project guitar Hello ! Thanks for stopping by ! I am building my first electric guitar (thus me being new on projectguitar.com). I will make a review of my build on YouTube or instructables and I'll gladly share it here, but I'm not finished yet! I need your help with the finish. This is my thinline/Nashville tele. I would have had loads of photos to show you but I still haven't figured out the 501 MB file thing for uploading photos.... Here are a few facts about my build : It is made out of two mahogany panels (each made of two pieces) glued one on top of the other. The "glue line / separation" shows a lot, and I've had to fix some holes on the sides ; I want to hide them. Right now, I have dyed the body brown, sanded it down to give the grain a kick, and I've given it one layer of spray varnish (spray varnish being the closest I could find to spray lacquer) I do not have access to spraying equipment, it's all aerosols for me. I want to give the body a dark burst on the sides but I realized on some scrap wood that the black paint have doesn't look good with the orange wood at all. This is where you can help me : what kind of product and method can I use ? Will it be another type of paint? More dye? Really really dark brown varnish that goes black if I spray it heavily? Thanks for reading, I hope someone has advice!
  17. Hi, first time poster! I have googled around and searched the forum to see if I could find some answers to this question but I've not been able to locate any. Help very much appreciated! I've just finished building my first guitar (Tele copy from premade neck and premade unfinished body) and it looks great and plays lovely! However, I can't get any signal from the bridge pick up. I've looked at several possible issued/solutions but can't figure it out. I'd be very grateful for any advice, as I've not been able to identify any solutions anywhere online and I'm a bit stumped at this point. I'll do it in bullet points for easier reading: pickups are Fender Vintage Noiseless single coils, new out of the box; neck pickup works absolutely fine and sounds great; I raised the bridge pickup until almost touching the strings and it barely made a sound then; if I touch the joint where bridge pickup wire joins the switch with a piece of metal it makes the same sound as if I do this for the neck pickup wire join; if I tap the metal part of the bridge pickup with a metal object you hear this through the amp (possibly not as loud as if I do this with the neck pickup; I have not added an additional ground wire from the pickup to the bridge or control panel. There is a ground wire from the pickup, same as from the neck and I thought this would be sufficient. I believe (and I could be wrong) that all this would do is reduce hum; I also have not yet shielded the cavity, although again I believe this would only serve to reduce hum; when I got a weak signal from the pickup (sounding very metallic / tinny) I looked again at the wiring and saw a point where I had burned the wire casing (although exposed wire inside looked fine). In case this had damaged the wire I cut it back to this point and resoldered but then there was no signal coming through at all. I think this has covered everything, I do have a couple of photos should you want to see them but it's a little chaotic! (First job, and soldering iron is probably a bit too big). If the neck pickup works fine then I assume the problem has to be somewhere between the point in the switch it joins and the pickup itself. Potentially a bad solder join, but I've redone the joint several times already without success. Thanks in advance for your help, and I've enjoyed looking around at some of the guitars built in here! I may post my first effort once I've got the pickups resolved (I'm waiting to get this done before I screw a few last things down).
  18. Hello there, A long time ago I picked up an old, unknown telecaster body which has a three piece body with relatively pleasant grain. I've sanded it down and now I have a few questions/dilemmas. Pics: 1. I would like to go for a S/S pickup combination as I've already got four guitars with humbuckers. However, it seems that the routing doesn't quite accommodate a single pickup, unless I was to adjust the hole. Secondly, it seems to be wider than the metal bridge plate. Which probably means I'd have to cover it up somehow nicely (For example adding a nice timber trimming around the metal bridge plate. Also, what are the three holes on the left side of the bridge? 2. I've got a strat neck for it (unknown again) and it seems to fit alright. However, does the distance from the bridge to the neck nut matter if we are to consider the intonation and stuff. Or can it shift sideways a bit (3) ? (eg closer to the body or further as at the moment the holes in the neck don't quite match those in the body). Then, what about the height from the surface of the fingerboard to the surface of the body (1)? And lastly, the strat neck has got a round end which I imagine would have to be sanded in order to get a flush fit (2) Idea: I'm tempted to go for black hardware and combine it with a bit of african blackwood that I've got (for the switch cover plate, as well as neck pickup). Just to clarify, this is a little project for myself just to play with tools and see what's what, I'm perfectly aware that I will probably end up f..... it up Thanks!
  19. Hey there! I've had a "first guitar" project going on for over a year now. Slowly making progress, or was it regress? That's what I need to know now. Without checking if it was possible I chose to mix electronics/hardware from PRS and Fender Telecaster. When I reached the wiring stage of the guitar build I hit the wall. I've done some research, but still don't know how this should be done. It would really make my day if one of you could download the picture, do a paint drawing on top of it that displays what should go where. So here's what I have - Fender noiseless bridge single coil with black and yellow wire (and the white and black extra wire and that red thing with two pins) - PRS 245 bass humbucker with one wire - PRS input jack with one wire - Standard telecaster control plate hardware and pots Here's a link to a bigger version of the image if needed http://i.imgur.com/wUYZ8xX.jpg I have a huge bag of lessons learned from this project... And they are all pretty visible on the guitar
  20. I am building a 12 string Gretsch Tele. Here's a video of where I am at on the build. I'll post pics soon.
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