Project Guitar :: 3D inlay work page 2

Welcome to page two =o) OK with the little dab of epoxy in the cavity I inserted the vinyl base and made sure it was laying flat using a clean toothpick.
		Next take more of your epoxy and fill the cavity up about 1/2 way making sure it is spread around evenly. If you encounter any bubbles in your mixture as you do this try to poke them out using your toothpick, most of them will push away to the side and escape when you place the acrylic insert in anyway but it doesn't hurt to help yourself along when possible.
Now set your insert down on top and gently press it into place letting the epoxy ooze out along the edge's.

Here is where I varied away from what I have read on some tutorial about the subject and it is time for you to make your own choice on the matter. While performing my test I used a clean rag moistened with acetone to wipe away the epoxy that flowed out around my insert. While yes if strong enough it will fog the top surface of the acrylic (not important since it will be sanded of later), it also pulled some of the epoxy out along the edge which meant after smoothing everything down I would have to go back and fill again for a smooth level edge where gaps showed up. I elected to just leave the excess where it is and sand the entire area down knowing it would take longer to sand but I would not have to go back and repeat the epoxy process.

Another note to keep in mind when you get to the point your doing the larger piece's instead of trying to chase the bubbles away from underneath the acrylic you can wipe a dab across the back of your piece and slide your bottom insert on to it and force the bubbles out with your finger nails (messy for you but very effective).
		Anyway as you can see the bubbles will show easily as you dab your epoxy on top of the insert. Lifting and sliding the acrylic up and down to work them out will work well since with the amount of epoxy your working with will only allow about 4 inlays of you chose not to mix up a Hugh batch so take your time and do what is right for you.
One of the advantages not mentioned in any of the places I have read up on the subject is the fact a toothpick is great for cleaning out any spillage of epoxy in the fret slot's should you find the need.
		One of the advantages of the particular epoxy I use (Epoxy 330) is that instead of waiting the normal dry time of 2-3 hours for it to set up if yo have an inferred heat lamp it will harden completely in 10 minutes!

OK so now all of the insert's are in and the epoxy has been cured, time for some fun with sanding part 1 and a 2 and a 3 and so on and so on =o)
		Since I'm used to fine detail sanding to begin with I started out using my trusty contour sander with a five beveled tip and an 80 grit sleeve to knock off the top of the epoxy and also the sharp edge of the acrylic insert. For some of you using a flat bladed file will be a better option if you don't own a finishing type of sander.
Yes it is a beautiful mess but it is my mess =o) anyway the dust you create as you sand at this point should only be white in color, if you start to see anything else back off immediately because your digging into the board which of course is a bad thing.
		Now that I have the majority of the top knocked down it is time to change over to the 220 grit sleeve and continue smoothing the area down.
This is what it looks like once I finished using the 220, yes the acrylic is fogged over but not to worry the magic will happen soon enough.
		Here is a side view, I know it is hard to see but the inlay is still slightly sticking up like a mini speed bump. I do not want it level just yet since the sandpaper of choice has been to large a grit and will cause permanent lines scored into the acrylic if I go any further.
Time to switch over to hand and block sanding, for those of you that didn't have a detail sander I imagine your already here and working your way down the gritty road getting finer and finer as you move along. For me it is a 16" radius block and I'm starting out with 320 grit, then 600,800,1200, 2000 and if needed final polishing with micro mesh.
		As you will notice it is a good thing to have compressed air available since the sand paper will build up quickly during this entire process. You can also see if you look closely that the factory lines running up and down the length of the board from their radius machine are now slowly beginning to disappear. Just a note this board was purchased through the net at Luthiers Mercantile Int
Anyway as you slowly sand the full length of the board changing the grits as needed you will start to see the top of the acrylic smooth away and also if your doing this to an Ebony board it will polish itself up nice and shinny without the use of any additional oil =o)


Fret markers 3 and 5		Markers 7, 9 and 12

Markers 15,17,19,21 and 24		All finished and ready for the guitar!