Trem to Hard Tail Conversion

Sand the back down the same way you did the front.		Be careful not to allow the sander to dig into the block since you only want to level it at this point.

This is where most people run into a problem when they try doing this. You get the blocks all sanded flush but find gaps in the edges because your sander caused enough heat to shrink or loosen the adhesive.

You can fill the gaps and hand sand it back down once it is dry.		But after you prime it you will still notice those nasty lines which will show up in your finish.

The solution is easier then you think, route a small groove along the edge of the entire joint and mix up a batch of epoxy based filler, since epoxy will dry a lot harder ( while still effected by heat will not show as easy).

Make sure it covers all the way across the groove you just routed out, Once it is dry sand it back down flush, prime the body and do any touch up work you may need.		I use a long block for the sanding at this point since I really do not want to heat up the joint any more then needed. Repeat this process on the back as well.

Time to place the bridge properly, for this use a square or straight edge and draw a line from both sides of the neck pocket down the bout of the body, then measure between the lines to find your center line, this will assure a perfect alignment of your bridge.

Make sure the bridge is far enough back so that the scale of the guitar can be intonated properly		Mark where the mounting screws should be and pre-drill

If you have a bridge that is made for a string through body mount it now and drill out the holes through the body then remove it and flip the body over to drill out the holes for your string ferrules

Prime your body and don't forget to drill out the hole for your ground wire so that it can make contact with the bridge! Now pick a finish and go for it!