Do-it-Yourself Lions Claw (Jem Style Trem Cavity)

by Brian Calvert

First of all I will show you the (block insert) way that has been suggested to me if you want the most accurate Trem cavity ala Jem Style. It is not necessary to do this if you don't mind a cavity that is approximately 1/4" longer than an actual Jem then skip on down to the next page.

First of all peal off the usual rubber mat in the base of the cavity and using a Dremel with a wire brush bit clean out the cavity at least 5/8" in towards the middle and the sides and back wall as well as pictured in the photo on the top right.

Using a square (left photo above) you will find that on most of the RG body's the cavity is approximately 3/4" deep but yours may very. Measure out from a piece of 1/2" stock wood ( photo on above right) and cut out a block that will be wide enough and tall enough to fill the cavity and close off the first 1/2" of the cavity then round off the 2 back corners( as shown in the photo on the left below).

Using either a file or a contour sander notch out the block 1/4" deep and approximately 3/8" diameter on both ends making sure that the sides of the notches are so close to the end of the block that they are almost paper thin (as shown on the above right photo).

OK so I photographed it twice =o) anyway using a wood epoxy or even a really good wood glue such as Titebond cover and fill both ends the back and bottom of your plug and insert it into the Trem cavity and let it dry. At this point it would be a good idea while you have the mix going to go ahead and add extra from the edges of the block trying to blend it into the sides of the Trem cavity. Let this dry overnight if possible since the areas that you are attaching to the body can't dry as fast as just attaching two normal boards together.

Now gather up your router ( I use a trim router for this) with a 3/8" round end bit and a square, A couple of 2" easy clamps and a small square. Also you will need a small amount of masking tape and a fine tip pen along with your dremel and a 3/8" round/ball tip steel woodgrinding bit, and last but not least a couple grades of sanding sponges and a can of primer.

 

When you have finished the above or for those of you that skipped the Block part time for page two