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  2. Does it need to be grounded? I don't see any part of your switching arrangement that would necessarily require part of it grounded, unless you're doing something like coil-splitting the humbuckers. The only grounding you may want to add is for noise reduction, which would automatically occur when the switch is bolted to any shielding you may have inside the control cavity, but it's certainly not mandatory. The grounding in that case is done by the threaded shaft of the switch being in physical contact with the conductive shielding, which should already be grounded. Not sure
  3. indirectly related to this build --- I made a cheap-o, push (no crank) fret bender out of plywood scrap, a cut up credit card (for spacers) and skateboard wheel bearings -- like $12 total cost. And the wire slides through like butter.
  4. Today
  5. So sorry, Cortisa. I got confused about my own diagram. Yes, hot is coming from the tone pot to the 0 leads. The detail missing is because I don't have any grounds. How should this switch be grounded? That's the part I couldn't find online. I understand 3- and 5-way linear switches, but there is no doc on this rotary that I could find. Thanks for responding. Chris
  6. I've cut the purfling channel and I'm working on the dry fit.
  7. Rebates cut on leg joints. Seat all glued up.
  8. Yesterday
  9. I made this some years ago. Maybe this time is the charm? Jet Jons Jag. Build here: SPECS: 3 piece Alder body Maple Neck, EIR Fretboard 34" scale Tele Headstock Jag bass redesign by my self. All redesign, cnc cut by me and finish work by hand. Finish was done with lacquer and 2 k clear coat. BadAss 2 bridge, EMG active pickups w/ three volumes and one master volume control Hipshot tuners, 1 is a Drop D Banjo Frets, ( John likes them crisp as he places his fingers on the actual fret, the harmonics on this are a beast) Sorry I los
  10. How is it not working? The diagram looks right, but there is a lot of detail missing (I assume you left out a lot of it to make it easier to read?) so if there's another wiring fault going on that isn't shown in your sketch it isn't obvious. For example the grounding for the pickups seems to be missing, as does any detail around how the volume pots and output jack are wired. Not ground. It should be the common output (hot) of the switch after selecting your combinations of pickups, which is how I assume you've drawn it, If this is the case it looks like it's drawn correctly, not
  11. Hey guys, I'm trying to wire a rotary switch for a H-H-H setup. I couldn't find any info on how the switch works, just examples of wiring the hot leads. I assume that ground lead numbered 0 in the middle of the switch is ground but I can't get it to work. I read I can use a multimeter to test the continuity, but wouldn't it be better to measure the power output? Thanks.
  12. First ever build done, call it "The Locomotive". Inspired by the german locomotives DB10 "Black Swan", tried to make it look sort of industrial dirty steam machinery looking, without making it into steampunk. I've worked as a welder/mechanic in coal power plants for over a decade so that helped, both in getting it done and as inspiration. I've worked from home for the last year so I thought I'd put together a small workshop for building my own guitars finally. Got the router templates from guitarsandwoods. Neck shape: baseball bat, D-ish. Copied my ESP Horizon neck but kept it chunky.
  13. Soundclip of some senseless metal! https://soundcloud.com/nakedzen/lumiaalto-001
  14. Test fit the hardware, lined up the bridge and drilled the holes for it. Already up to the finishing here. Put three thin coats of Crimson Guitars penetrating oil on the body, then beeswax and carnauba wax mix polish. Three coats of oil on the back of the neck as well, and maybe 20 coats of Boston nitrocellulose lacquer on the headstock. Sanded the lacquer down to 2000 grit, then sprayed two more coats. Added the string tree to the headstock. It's done! Teaser pic of #002 in the works, pretty far into it actually, up to lacquer and headstock decal r
  15. Time for frets, Sintoms bell bronze frets from Belarus. Took a bit of force to cut with my side cutters. They turned out OK, at least there are no sharp fret ends. Not the prettiest fret job ever, but works fine for a first build ever. Except! Disaster the next day, one fret end had raised out of its slot. Had to put some CA glue under the fret and clamp it down with a 10" radius block. Thankfully this fixed the problem.
  16. Jack hole drilled! Exciting. Dyed the whole neck black, and sanded it back to get the grain black. Then dyed the neck red. Bought the pickguard from aliexpress, sanded it back to bare wood. Dyed black, then sanded back, dyed red same as the neck. Added four coats of crimson guitars penetrating oil. Lastly testing out some hardware fit, tuners look great imho.
  17. Neck and board finally together as they should! Then I cut the headstock with the bandsaw to the correct depth (a better quality saw would've helped here to get a straight clean cut!) Next was the test fitting of the neck, it fits! The holes for the fret markers were drilled, cut and installed them with some ca glue, then sanded level to the board. I went with off center position for the markers, wanted something different. A lot of sanding and japanese rasp action later, the neck is starting to look more like something usable. I took some cuts from my ESP H
  18. Neck routed to the rough outline, had a bit of trouble with routing since I only have a regular desk and some clamps. Had to take a small portion only and then turn the neck and clamp it again in a different position. Glued the fretboard on, as you can see the glue lifted a huge amount overnight. I took a clothes iron, heated the fretboard and clamped it tight! Actually worked to salvage the neck. Lesson learned, you need to leave the fretboard+neck clamped down until the glue is completely solid, two days maybe. Testing out the neck pocket fit with the temp
  19. World's simplest truss rod routing jig, just a piece of plywood to rest the router edge guide against. Went much better than expected! I put those mini clamps there to prevent from routing too far and ruining the headstock. Just a small amount of adjusting the width with a 6mm chisel was needed to fit the adjustment nut part.
  20. Build documentation follows! 25.5" scale, ash body, maple neck, ebony board. Sintoms bell bronze frets, graphtech nut, Schaller DaVinci tuners, Scaheller bridge, copper hardware from Aliexpress(!). Emg pickups, jack and switch. Shopping list: Einhell bandsaw for rough cuts (pretty terrible saw but works well enough for this) Japanese shinto rasp (perfect for neck contouring, belly cuts) Lots of clamps and sandpaper (240, 320, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 grits) Random orbital sander from aliexpress (Deko brand, very good quality and cost 25 euros https://www.aliexpress
  21. While the strings are off (and on then off then on then off...) it's interesting to see how flat the radius on the fretboard actually is. This is a 16" radius caul from the fret press, and even in the middle there might still be a little bit of a gap, which suggests it's flatter still: Tuning machines can finally be attached permanently. I had them unscrewed for the majority of the setup so I could see what things were doing under string tension and still be able to quickly take the strings off again to tweak things. I've just applied a little paste wax to the shafts near the mounti
  22. I'm quite a fan of wenge! So, decided to just make a simple truss rod cover. The original idea ended up looking out of character with the build, this looks much cleaner. And then I got a start on the carve. Since the horn/cutaway is the most involved part that's where I started. Here's a picture of the test piece along with the real deal. You can see an area where I departed significantly from the test carve. I decided to keep the point tall to match the style of the mandola rather than the more 'Carl Thompson' look of the test. It ends up changing the look of the
  23. Got some wood-8/4 ash planed to 1-5/8” and a piece of 5/4 maple for the neck. Could probably get 2 necks out of it. All for a grand total of $35! Woo! The ash is heavy so maybe there will be some chambering? I went in looking for pine but they had none above 1x so-no luck there. Pretty stoked about this ash anyway though.
  24. Last week
  25. I'm using the low profile Hot Rod with headstock access in my current build. I didn't go super thin on my neck carve, and have a fairly sizeable volute to help account for it. There are a number of factors involved in the strength/structural integrity of the neck, but making sure you have as much wood as you can get in vulnerable areas is a good start!
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