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  1. Today
  2. wow, that's a lovely piece of scrap. if I may - what bit do you use for the finished pass?
  3. Yesterday
  4. So to speed things up just a bit, I tried using a smaller number in my meshes/breps. which in turn creates larger triangulations if converted to STL. This is not good. While it may look good in the software design, it shows up on the CNC as large triangulation and is rough, So I will need to go back and redo this one. Since it is a one off I will just sand the neck. but it does make me look at my settings in Rhino. MK
  5. A piece of scrap I found laying in the back of the shop. LOL. This is going to be a neck for a CBG 3 string. mk
  6. ima b honest.... kinda blurry but... looks like some nice figure.
  7. So here is a neck blank I just finished surfacing both sides before I start the next operation of carving the neck. MK
  8. This should be a Pbass Vectored PDf file. OOPS no side profile? look at Neck2 Drawings 51-p-bass-neck.pdf Neck 2 Drawing Section-1.pdf
  9. clearly not doing historicaly accurate so... over at herald you can find design for yamaha attitude bass. https://www.electricherald.com/guitar-templates/page/2/ there are lots of folks who have the 51 pbass neck here you can find a p-bass headstock template https://www.tdpri.com/threads/p-bass-headstock-template.252557/ and this site actually has a p bass neck https://www.gitarrebassbau.de/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6
  10. Howdy all, long time lurker, first time poster (maybe second, I forget). I looked in the Downloads section, didn't see it. Been all over the net too, Lots of P-Bass body drawings, none of the neck itself, at least no free versions. Figure somebody must have drawn one, Actually trying to plot an MIM P neck into a different body shape, so I need something accurate. Any leads on either a .dwg or .dxf drawing appreciated.
  11. No big deal as the holes are not a problem only when they raise up the surface and things don't sit flat. A quick scrape with a blade and that is gone. Resurface every few weeks as the mdf will swell some over time due to humidity. The screws that hold the MDF down are counter sunk so I have about 0.550" of surface I can remove.. Removing approx 0.010"-0.015" every few weeks to keep flat.
  12. just wood screws into the substrate? I used to do that with my planer board... and after a while the surface looked like swiss cheese. I spose on a cnc it's easy 'nuff to replace. ;)
  13. https://www.cycfi.com/2010/10/cf-truss-rod/
  14. well then... let my start by building a shrine in my mind... by reviewing the threadsy of cycfi...
  15. Talk to Cycfi. He's a smart guy and very open with his ideas. No point in reinventing the wheel that was recently reinvented
  16. That was entertaining. Wally liked his sense of humor.....as least I think he did. He's pretty stoic. But I'm sure I saw his mustache lift a bit an his eyes crinkled. And his left foot tapped. SR
  17. Excellent solution! I like the look, and it does bring a domino to mind. Recovering from mistakes and accidents with skill and flair is a giant part of this hobby of ours. There is always at least one of those waiting to pounce when you least expect it. SR
  18. i guess if one made their own truss rods... a carbon fiber wrap on the rod might be a good idea. it'd be ideal to have that carbon fiber occupying all the 'air' space in a double action truss rod.
  19. That's really cool man ! I really Appreciate, and can't wait to try it !
  20. I'm not familiar with this engineering term "cutt-y"... please elaborate (hehe). well I was thinking that if you did a gloss finish over the top it would be less 'cutt-y". just spit balling here. more I think about it carbon fiber rods seem like much less effort... but the original premise was that you could use TOW carbon fiber thread, and potentially reinforce a neck 'enough' without adding all that much carbon fiber and more importantly the amount of resin you'd put in your guitar would be lessened. this was all spurred on by a thread I was reading over at talkbass where an e
  21. I'd hazard that it would be very hard to match the properties of a manufactured pultruded section using home gamer methods. You might get 50% of the way, and perhaps - if you run the numbers - that might still meet your end goal. Can you quantify the objective in this manner? I'd say that consistency is the main enemy. A section might have properties that vary in spots which may be less than predictable. This is a rabbit hole. I've always been interested in laminating carbon fibre as pinstripes 3-4 layers thick. That would provide stiffness, however the final finish would need to shield your f
  22. obviously doing it 'from home' one would expect the exact consistency and rigidity that a commercial process would yield... as all things it would have that downside... with the upside being the potential for a more malleable application. if the rigidity was comparably 'close enough'.
  23. I forgot about the heat-cured part. This is perhaps a property engineered into the epoxy for the process rather than letting it chooch on its own time. Curing in the mould or die through applied heat works from a manufacturing viewpoint so the thing is a continuous process. Given that pultruded products are dimensionally very consistent, this would seem an advantageous choice.
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