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Need help with radius


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I can't think of a way this can be done. However, years ago, I used to get a magazine called 'Guitar for the practicing musician', and it had a guitar repair question/answer page done by luthier Barry Lipman. Once there was something about locking nuts, and he said something like " in a future issue, I'll tell you how to change the string slot depths on a floyd rose locking nut". Well, I continued to get that magazine for another 5 years, I guess, and that locking nut mod was never mentioned.

PS-- I was the only one who ever sent in in-depth questions about fret-work. They were in the mag 2 times. I got pretty good answers from Barry too.

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I don't know much about metal working but it sounds like a real difficult job. As you mentioned, the difference between 10 and 12 at the nut is very small - are you sure it would be worth it?

I don't expect that you'd really use this but I ran across it earlier today and thought it would be a pretty handy thing:


If you have something that you'd need many of and can afford the investment, it's a great resource. Obviously, for one locking nut it's out of the question. Just wanted to share it with you though since some people may find a use for it some day.

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that's what i thought, with some jewlers files you could flatten the main part of the nut out, (use guages to check your work) then, a little round jewler file to touch up the 4 string slots. But that's alot of work... might take you less time to just replace the fretboard with a 10" if you're having compatibily issues.

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The floyd nuts I know will wear your file out before you'd get far, then you'd have to lower the area where the string gets clamped, or else the strings won't sit down to the bottom of the slots. How you would file that area is beyond me.

Maybe a machinist could do it on a milling machine.

But if you have metal taken off, that means plating is taken off too. Leave it unplated and it's sure to rust.

Fret-board replacement for something like that would be taking it too far. I'd have the existing fret-board re-radiused first.

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