glueing a U-Channel rod

[kench]

I have just routed the truss-rod channel for the U-Channel truss rod I've ordered from Stew-Mac. Now I'm going to fix the rod in the channel but I'm not sure what to use. I think the epoxies are the best but there are lots of different brands and types of epoxies. A simple double-tube epoxies work well?

The local stores around here are mostly selling BISON brand (from Holland) epoxies, glues or super glues. Are they good?

And another question:

My truss-rod channel is like 1 mm (0,03937") deeper than height of the rod. Do I have to use a 1 mm thick fillet?.. or I can leave that space?

[Phil Mailloux]

I wouldn't use any glue at all. Maybe just a bit of silicone at the two extremities to prevent rattling.

The should truss rod should be touching the fingerboard since thats what it needs to do to work properly. You can either make a thin fillet with veneer under the rod or cut the channel deeper and glue a fillet on top of the rod.

[kench]

No. This type of rods require glueing. It's a simple threaded rod in an U-shape aluminium cover. And that aluminium cover must be fixed in the neck to work properly. The inside rod must be un-glued though. It has a guard tape under aluminium channel to prevent glue or epoxy from reaching the inner rod.

I don't think it would work at all without fixing it in the neck. Never tried it but I think it would move back and forth in the neck when you adjust it. Because its a straight rod and fits in a square straight channel in the neck. Or it may push the fingerboard out too much when you tighten the rod and may crack the fingerboard.

[asm]

only time ive seen people use epoxy in the neck is glueing in perm graphite rods. you have to remember epoxy is pretty permanent. id go with a normal wood glue, titebond should work. i dont know about that truss particular rod though so i *may* br wrong.

[kench]

I have Titebond II only. Is it good to bond aluminium and metal to the wood? It's a rod with aluminium shell with flat sides and top but rounded bottom.

Here's a picture of the rod. Only the nut area though

[lucky1]

Edited September 19, 2004 by lucky1

[Lex Luthier]

You can't use wood glue to glue metal to wood. The best would be epoxy. Other than that, that's all I'll say, I didn't know you had to glue in those types of truss rod, but just don't use wood glue.

[Phil Mailloux]

I'm using the same kind of rod you're using Kench and I didn't glue it in besides the silicone at the extremities. It won't move, unless your rout is waayyyy too large.

Where did you hear about that??

Edited August 31, 2004 by Phil Mailloux

[Setch]

Kench, Phil is correct - that rod will work unglued.

However.... It is *much* better to glue it in. The biggest advantage of the u channel rod is that it adds a lot of stiffness to your neck, which improves tone, and aleviates dead spots or wolf tones. You can use Bison brand epoxy, though I'd avoid any of the 5 minute varieties and go for a slow setting version. I've glued them in using a fillet of hardwood, or directly under the fretboard, either way works fine.

I'll also second the recommendation that you steer clear of Titebond II. The original is superior for luthiery applications, since it dries harder and faster. II can stay liquid for ever in the centre of large joints, and stays rubbery for a very long time - possibly for ever.

[kench]

Hmm. I think I've heard that it must be glued on here and on MIMF. Theorically, it sounds correct too. I've never thought that Titebond II will do this work either. I will use an optimum amount of epoxy. Thanks for advices!!