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CA method?


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I can add to that old thread.

following those directions, and taking for granted you glued your top onto the guitar first...:

I use Hot Stuff, which comes in red (runny) yellow (medium) and green (thick, gap filling). I will use the red first, because it will really sink into every pore and grain very well. With Spalt, sometimes TOO well! Sometimes it's best just to use the yellow if the spalt is really sucking it up Macho Camacho stylee.

When that first coat dries, I sand back until there's no real obvious bumps or humps or weird stuff, pretty well on the way to 100% level, but not all the way just yet. Then I switch to yellow, which is a bit thicker for either one or two more coats.

Sand flat, until you're getting wood onto your sandpaper again, using a nice flat hard backer sanding block (scrap piece of hardwood B) )

Remember, you're pore filling, not trying to create a finish on top of it.

Once it's level, apply your finish.

I would not recommend trying to dye something like this, you could do it, but it's very 'touch and go', very tricky to pull off for several reasons.

You could either use just the yellow, or just the red, it will work fine. I have both, so I use what's at my disposal to best effect.

When you're done, you can hold it up to the light 'just so' to catch the reflections and see if everything's filled OK. Give it a very good once over with your eye under the right reflective light to check.

PS, the fumes will absolutely DEVASTATE you unless you're wearing a respirator and goggles. Don't even bother doing it if you don't have them.

If you don't have these things, then I would recommend the A/B Epoxy method, no bad fumes, pretty much the same scenario except one or two coats should do it.

I like the CA glue because it seeps into the pores and that's part of the 'chatoyance', the glue in the pores reflecting the figure back at you, I'm not so sure epoxy gets so far into the pores like that as CA does, but that's kinda splitting hairs in the end. :D

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I've posted at length on this before......CA works well......You may want to go to a hobby store and get your CA there......The 8oz bottles from Bob Smith Industries cost about $16......Soft spalted wood drinks a lot of CA......Depending on how soft your wood is.....you may need nore than a 2oz bottle of Hot Stuff. Another option is CPES....Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer.....it is expensive but works great.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Resurrecting.... I started super gluing my spalt top today and I had 12 of those little tubes of it... I'm guessing that wasn't enough.... cause some spots are "darker" than others (like the look of wood when you add water to one spot vs. the other un-watered parts).

I'm gunna go out and buy more glue when I have a chance.... but this affect won't be a permanent "blotchy" look will it?!

Chris

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I've posted at length on this before......CA works well......You may want to go to a hobby store and get your CA there......The 8oz bottles from Bob Smith Industries cost about $16......Soft spalted wood drinks a lot of CA......Depending on how soft your wood is.....you may need nore than a 2oz bottle of Hot Stuff. Another option is CPES....Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer.....it is expensive but works great.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html

verhoevenc....Here is a post of mine from this thread......It could have saved you from buying all those tiny tubes of CA!....Go to a hobby shop and they will have the 8oz bottles of CA.....As for epoxy.....read my post or do as lapidary artists do with some chaulky specimens....Mix 2 part epoxy with alcohol or acetone and stablize the wood that way.....it may require many applications until the mixure has completely penetrated the wood......The quickest method is ofted not the best.

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