stringkilla Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 Got me some spalt and read here that someone used Drak's CA method to stabilize it so's he can sand evenly? Drak please send me that method, it will be nice to use it on my spalt top. Thanks, 'Killa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibum5545 Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=4991&hl=spalt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 I can add to that old thread. following those directions, and taking for granted you glued your top onto the guitar first...: I use Hot Stuff, which comes in red (runny) yellow (medium) and green (thick, gap filling). I will use the red first, because it will really sink into every pore and grain very well. With Spalt, sometimes TOO well! Sometimes it's best just to use the yellow if the spalt is really sucking it up Macho Camacho stylee. When that first coat dries, I sand back until there's no real obvious bumps or humps or weird stuff, pretty well on the way to 100% level, but not all the way just yet. Then I switch to yellow, which is a bit thicker for either one or two more coats. Sand flat, until you're getting wood onto your sandpaper again, using a nice flat hard backer sanding block (scrap piece of hardwood ) Remember, you're pore filling, not trying to create a finish on top of it. Once it's level, apply your finish. I would not recommend trying to dye something like this, you could do it, but it's very 'touch and go', very tricky to pull off for several reasons. You could either use just the yellow, or just the red, it will work fine. I have both, so I use what's at my disposal to best effect. When you're done, you can hold it up to the light 'just so' to catch the reflections and see if everything's filled OK. Give it a very good once over with your eye under the right reflective light to check. PS, the fumes will absolutely DEVASTATE you unless you're wearing a respirator and goggles. Don't even bother doing it if you don't have them. If you don't have these things, then I would recommend the A/B Epoxy method, no bad fumes, pretty much the same scenario except one or two coats should do it. I like the CA glue because it seeps into the pores and that's part of the 'chatoyance', the glue in the pores reflecting the figure back at you, I'm not so sure epoxy gets so far into the pores like that as CA does, but that's kinda splitting hairs in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javacody Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 perhaps a slow setting epoxy would have more time to sink into the pores? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 Quite possible. I'm not dissing the epoxy even 1 percent, epoxy is a great way to go. We all have our 'ways', CA is just my way, doesn't make it the right way, ...just 'a' way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javacody Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 I know Drak, I was just thinking that newbs like me would be less likely to kill ourselves and possibly our families (LOL) using epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simo Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 I don't want to hijack the thread, but I'm guessing this would work on Spalted Beech as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted September 14, 2004 Report Share Posted September 14, 2004 Yeah, any wood really, doesn't even have to be spalt. And I agree 'cody, epoxy probably IS easier for newbs. And I like it too, it's perfectly suited for the purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted September 15, 2004 Report Share Posted September 15, 2004 Allow me to add... With spalt, don't even think of sanding it without applying the CA first. I made that mistake, and it took me a long time to level everything off. And the CA gets hard way faster than epoxy. And it doesn't tint the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringkilla Posted September 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2004 Thanks Drak. I guess I'l use the two part epoxy method. I plan on shaping the top wood first and then troweling on some 5 min. epoxy to stabilize sand and clearcoat. Sound good to you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted September 15, 2004 Report Share Posted September 15, 2004 I've posted at length on this before......CA works well......You may want to go to a hobby store and get your CA there......The 8oz bottles from Bob Smith Industries cost about $16......Soft spalted wood drinks a lot of CA......Depending on how soft your wood is.....you may need nore than a 2oz bottle of Hot Stuff. Another option is CPES....Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer.....it is expensive but works great. http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simo Posted September 16, 2004 Report Share Posted September 16, 2004 I tested some epoxy on an offcut of Walnut this afternoon, and the results were great! Just one more question....would you recommend speed epoxy or a slower drying one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted September 16, 2004 Report Share Posted September 16, 2004 Slow drying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simo Posted September 16, 2004 Report Share Posted September 16, 2004 Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted September 16, 2004 Report Share Posted September 16, 2004 Keep us posted of your progress with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringkilla Posted October 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2004 Drak, I've shaped my body and I am very close to final shaping. I will drench the softer parts in CA soon . If I can I'll add some pics also. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted October 2, 2004 Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 The softer parts? You're supposed to do the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted October 2, 2004 Report Share Posted October 2, 2004 I second that....do the entire body. If you do any kind of transparent finish, the parts of the body w/o CA will look blotchy. Be sure to wear some kind of breathing protection and safety goggles...or at least stand up-wind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringkilla Posted October 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2004 Oh yeah, I did the whole thing. The very same thought occured to me as I was drenching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 13, 2006 Report Share Posted March 13, 2006 Resurrecting.... I started super gluing my spalt top today and I had 12 of those little tubes of it... I'm guessing that wasn't enough.... cause some spots are "darker" than others (like the look of wood when you add water to one spot vs. the other un-watered parts). I'm gunna go out and buy more glue when I have a chance.... but this affect won't be a permanent "blotchy" look will it?! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 13, 2006 Report Share Posted March 13, 2006 i retract my statement, now that it's totally dried it's MUCH nicer. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted March 15, 2006 Report Share Posted March 15, 2006 Forget those little tubes, if you go to Michael's or a similar craft store, you should be able to find CA in 4 oz squeeze bottles. The stuff I get is called "Zap-A-Gap". Depending on how porous your spalt is, you might need 2 or 3 of them before you're done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 15, 2006 Report Share Posted March 15, 2006 yeah... i kinda really screwed up on this spalt... it's turned out splotchy in the end.... but I talked to drak, there's nothing that can be done about it now... you live you learn.... Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted March 15, 2006 Report Share Posted March 15, 2006 I've posted at length on this before......CA works well......You may want to go to a hobby store and get your CA there......The 8oz bottles from Bob Smith Industries cost about $16......Soft spalted wood drinks a lot of CA......Depending on how soft your wood is.....you may need nore than a 2oz bottle of Hot Stuff. Another option is CPES....Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer.....it is expensive but works great. http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html verhoevenc....Here is a post of mine from this thread......It could have saved you from buying all those tiny tubes of CA!....Go to a hobby shop and they will have the 8oz bottles of CA.....As for epoxy.....read my post or do as lapidary artists do with some chaulky specimens....Mix 2 part epoxy with alcohol or acetone and stablize the wood that way.....it may require many applications until the mixure has completely penetrated the wood......The quickest method is ofted not the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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