Recessing Controls

[genbloke]

Hi guys

I want to recess the controls on my guitar, similar to schecters eg: schecter 00 series

I remember a member doing this using a forstner bit. Has anyone else tried this using other methods? I just want to weigh up all the options.

Thanks

Genbloke

[Curtis P]

if it was me who was doing it, i would do the carve top first, then mark out where the control goes, and use a forstner bit for sure in a drill press, but thats just me talkin

Curtis

[genbloke]

Will using a forstner to create the actual recess give a very 'square bottomed' and 'square topped' recess? I'm looking for a way to create a smoother more radiused edge.

Genbloke

[82DeanZ]

Hmmm, I think Curtis has a good idea there. I would just add that after using the forstner bit, you then go back and sand the radiused edge by hand. Should work fine.

Best Regards,

Mike.

[Dugz Ink]

If you drill the recesses too deep, you can always make the holes the same size as the knobs, then mount a metal plate UNDER the wood, and mount your pots to/through the metal. In that case, I would finish the metal with paint that matched the finished wood.

Either way, I would do what they said: drill, then radius by hand.

D~s

[PerryL]

If you're top is carved, Do the forstner and sand the edges smooth but If it's a flat top use the forstner then use a short roundover router bit and round it with that. It worked for me on my "practice" piece but haven't tried it on the Real thing.

[unclej]

here's a thought...if you have to buy a bit for the project anyway why not buy a cove or chamfer router bit. the bearing should be the same or close to the same size as the hole for your control pot to stick through. you can chuck the bit up in your drill press, set the depth and route a perfect recess. the chamfer would give you a straight beveled side to the recess and the cove an oval one.

well, i just checked the size of the bearing on a couple of bits and they were both 1/2 " which is considerably larger than the hole you need for a pot shaft but you can remove the bearing and just make sure that you're centered over the hole and that your body is secure and it should still work.

Edited October 22, 2004 by unclej

[DannoG]

I did recessed knobs on my DC not too long ago. I just hand sanded the transition from top to recess after using the forstner bit. I would be very leery of using a router - the chance of tearout is too great.

Edited October 24, 2004 by DannoG

[Lex Luthier]

I've used spade bits that have a rounded edge, instead of the pointed scoring tips. Gave a nice rounded look to the recess, and just hand sanded the transition of the top edge.

[Uncle Os]

:::raising my hand meekly::: I'm one of those drill a big hole and smooth the edges by hand guys

MLAR, Cor

[genbloke]

Thanks guys

Looks like I'll be drilling then rounding off the corners by hand.

Lex, did you take a normal spade bit then grind off the outer points?

Thanks

Genbloke

[unclej]

i'm sure that the bit and sanding will work fine but i wasn't suggesting that you actually use a router. using a router bit chucked into your drill press should give you the same control that you'd have with a forshner bit and eliminate a lot of hand sanding. i'll try it tomorrow on a piece of scrap let you know how it turns out.

[Lex Luthier]

Thanks guys

Looks like I'll be drilling then rounding off the corners by hand.

Lex, did you take a normal spade bit then grind off the outer points?

Thanks

Genbloke

No they came like that, Im sure HomeDepot and the like would have them.

[genbloke]

Thanks Lex,

I'll keep a look out for them.

genbloke

[Maiden69]

I did it on my LP, here and here in gold so that you can see it better. I used a round over router bit. I think it was a 1" radius, but I'm not sure now. Just got to your local hardware store and check the ones they got there I'm sure one will work for your taste!

[Gigabyte]

Someone posted a link on my thread to this one so I thought I put my 2 cents in. I used a cove bit for a router but I took the screw and bearing off and used it in a drill press instead....

This is what I actually said in the reply if that helps:

"As for the knob reccesses I used a big cove bit for a router(don't know exact size, just big). Actually I used it incorrectly but it worked. I just took the screw and bearing off the end and put it in a drill press. One thing I noticed when testing it out on some scrap was that when I drilled the pilot hole out larger than the circular part at the bottom of the bit it didn't work very well and got choppy as the wood wanted to jump around. Suprisingly I got excellent results making the pilot hole smaller than the bottom of the bit. Just go slow and don't move to the real guitar until you practice it out on scrap........"

The results:

[genbloke]

Maiden69 & Gigabyte,

Those recesses are exactly what I'm looking for. Did either of you have any problems with tear outs using this method? I'll be trying this on a flat tele body with a burl maple top.

I'll try the method as described by Gigabyte on a bit of scrap, if that doesn't work I'll get one of these.

Thanks once again.

Genbloke

[Maiden69]

The cutter Iused was like the one Gigabyte used! The one you are getting should be better because that's it the intended work for that cutter and the edge goes all the way around when on mine stops at the place where the ball bearing is suppose to be. I will strongly suggest you do a lot of practice with it on a scrap of wood the same material as the top you will be carving. Good luck!

[litchfield]

on a flat bod, just use the cove and a plunge router. a smaller bearing (like off a different cutter) is the right size to just fit the pot or switch hole, giving an even bevel.

[genbloke]

Thanks guys,

I'll do some practice runs on a bit of scrap maple. I'm not due to do the recessing for a couple of weeks, I'll keep you informed on how it goes when I get there.

Genbloke