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Posted

ok. I've been doing lots of reading etc but i cant seem to find the answer to a really stupid (and probobly inconsequential) question.

Does the fingerboard have to be any required depth? i.e 5mm

personally i wouldn't think so but i want to make sure before i do anything else.

thanks for any help :D

Posted

Hrm. ok.

the nut i bought is already slotted though and at the moment there is about 3mm clearance from the top of fret board to the top of the nut.

Note: the fret board is 5mm thick.

Like i said... i wouldn't think that this would matter... but i would like to take the width of the fret board down another .5mm just to be safe... what do you think?

Posted

To me, it seems that it'd be easier to just to make a new nut at the right height

(as opposed to thinning down the fretboard).

But thats based on my "I'd screw up thicknessing a fretboard vs. a doing a nut" experience

-- joe

Posted

The one i made was 1/4 inch thick.... I gont no complaints on how it functioned and all, it was actually pretty sweet fingerboard

Curtis

Posted

cool. thanks for all your help...i will see what happens... had not thought of the shims ^^;;

just a side note... im not really planning on cambering the fretboard... i might a little but not a huge amount... just a personal preference

thanks again :D

Posted

Remember if you're using a double truss rod (either double action or one-way) it works by applying upward pressure to the middle of the fretboard, and downward pressure at each end. A fretboard that's too thin will be prone to cracking under truss rod pressure. A traditional rod/filler strip alleviates pressure against the fretboard so even a thin vintage Fender "veneer-style" fretboard is fine.

Posted

Try something like a 19" radius or so. I used a compound 12"-17" radius on my tele, and I like it. I have a 24" radius block, but it barely removes anything on the edges.

Now a question (not meant to hijack). I made the high (gbe) side of my board slightly thicker than the low (EAD) side, probably 1/16" difference, so that the high strings will be closer to the board (the bridge doesn't adjust individual string height). Has anyone else tried this before?

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