Cupped Neck Blank....is This A Problem?

[GuitarMaestro]

Hi!

Today I recieved a big rift sawn rock maple neck blank for a neck through project. It's 5" wide and the problem is that it is slightly cupped. It looks like this:

As I don't need the full thickness I could plane the board flat again and use it. But I wonder if this is common for boards that are that wide and were not planed after drying or if this means that the board has a lot of internal tension and will warp/cup/twist later on if used as a neck.

Thanks in advance,

Marcel Knapp!

[GuitarMaestro]

Nobody worked with warped boards?

[82DeanZ]

Hey Maestro,

I had a similar problem except I was fighting a twisted blank. I would image your problem should be even easier to fix, however. Frank Falbo and David Myka ecouraged me to use my jointer and planer to fix the problem. Here is the original thread:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...=0entry142203

For me, just using the jointer was enough to give one level side. I've gone on with the blank and made the neck which I'm very pleased with (here is the thread to making of the neck: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...pic=11418&st=15. I should think that either a jointer or a planer would correct your blank very easily. Keep in mind you only need one true side as the other will be chopped away and curved anyway. Good luck!

Best Regards,

Mike.

Edited November 13, 2004 by 82DeanZ

[Saber]

Keep in mind you only need one true side as the other will be chopped away and curved anyway.

But he wrote that it's a "neck through project".

Edited November 13, 2004 by Saber

[82DeanZ]

O.K. then...plane both sides. He said it was plenty thick.

Best Regards,

Mike.

[GuitarMaestro]

Thanks alot for the Info Dean! I have no fear of planing the thing flat again though....I just wonder if it is a bad piece of wood basically which should not be used for a neck. As I am building a neck-through it is VERY important that the neck blank does it's job well over time because otherwise I'll have to throw the whole guitar away....

[82DeanZ]

Yes, I understand your concern. The stakes weren't quite as high in my case since I am doing a bolt-on. If worse comes to worse I can just un-bolt, submit to W.O.D. (sorry for stealing your material Drak, but I couldn't resist!) and then make another one. From what I understand, it is not uncommon for boards to twist in the kiln. When they come out they are dry, stable and...twisted. Fix the twist and you should be good to go. If I were in your shoes I'm not sure what I would do. Tough call. Most likely I would try and find another blank. Let us know what you decide.

Best Regards,

Mike.

Edited November 13, 2004 by 82DeanZ

[GuitarMaestro]

Thanks for the answer!

I think I will use it as the neck will be laminated from that maple blank and two stripes of Bubinga anyway, which should give the neck additional resistance against warping/cupping. What do you think?

[82DeanZ]

I think you should be O.K. Where did you get the blank? It was kiln dried wasn't it? Was it shipped from an area of significantly higher humidity? I think I saw a post by Drak or someone who pointed out that if you sand or plane one side of a blank you should treat the other side the same way. The theory is that one side will respond to humidy changes faster than the other which can cause cupping. Not sure how accurate that is, however. Just some additional things to consider as you make your decision. My gut feeling is still that you should be O.K. regardless.

Best Regards,

Mike.

[Curtis P]

If you got plenty of room left, then, you will have no problem planing it off, as long as its dry now, then your set to go

Do the cup first like in your picture, facing that way) on a jointer untill its flat, if it has any type of twist in it, put your push stick right in the centre at the end of your neck blank, then barely any pressure in the middle when you run it through, if you have it balanced properly (when pushing through) it will plane the twist out, then you can just finish jointing and bam, your neck blank is ready again

Ohh yea, I do this all the time at work, so if you got anymore questions, let me know

Curtis

[Saber]

[n8rofwyo]

My two cents:

Most lumber once resawn will warp to one degree or another. However kiln dried lumber has a severe tendency to do most of its moving during the drying process. Odds are that after planing/jointing you will come out fine, but if the stakes are high, give it a three to four day period in the yard. The warming and cooling that occurs outdoors, will give you a better idea of whether or not the wood is stable. This is partially due to the more extreme temperature changes subjected on the wood as well as the varied moisture it is suplemented. Nature knows best, let it work for you for a change!

[GuitarMaestro]

The piece was definately kiln dried and I suspect the seller sold it as it came out of the drying process. It did not change since I have it, so I think I'll use it. Thanks alot for all your input.