PerryL Posted November 30, 2004 Report Posted November 30, 2004 Is there aremedy for a loose Chuck that falls down from the spindle? I've been using it for a few years now and it happens when running my sanding drum or Power planner. Quote
Brian Posted November 30, 2004 Report Posted November 30, 2004 Last time that happened to me I polished it up with very fine emery cloth and added a fine coat of oil on it before hammering it back on and it hasn't fallen off since. Quote
ddgman2001 Posted November 30, 2004 Report Posted November 30, 2004 The oil idea is probably a better one, but we cleaned ours inside and out with alcohol. Applied a few drops of thin cyano and pressed it in. We really only use our drill presses for drilling and tapping though. Quote
PerryL Posted November 30, 2004 Author Report Posted November 30, 2004 Thanx Brian & Dman, I knocked it back on the last few times and let it set because of being frustrated with it. I'm a little leary of using Cyano on it tho Dman. I'm gonna try the Polish and Oil method wednesday when I'm off work to start my next project. Again Thanks Alot Guys. Quote
Hotrock Posted November 30, 2004 Report Posted November 30, 2004 I use my old mans £30 pillar drill and this happens from time to time (but what do you expect for £30). What I do is put a bit of wood on the platform and use the drill press to press it back on. Make sure that you are pushing down directly over the centre of the platform though as otherwise you'll push it down to an angle. I keep thinking about using the stuff (the name escapes me at the minute) that you put on bolts to lock them into place. It's called Nut lock, thread lock or something like that. I did find that the pressing method was better than hitting it with the hammer (although less satisfying ) Quote
PerryL Posted November 30, 2004 Author Report Posted November 30, 2004 LocTite, the red liquid that seals threads? That may be an idea worth invesitagting but I used a leather mallet the first time as per instructions and it lasted for a long time, however, with time it started dropping off. I can't find my manual at the moment but I think it had a section about maintenance that mentioned what to do if this does happen. And I hear ya on the hammer! Quote
jer7440 Posted November 30, 2004 Report Posted November 30, 2004 Be sure to read the label on the loctite if you decide to go this way! The red variety is considered permanent and the only way to break it loose is to apply heat. I'm sure this would cure your problem, but if you ever want to get the chuck out of your drill press... Quote
soapbarstrat Posted November 30, 2004 Report Posted November 30, 2004 (edited) I don't know what the red loctite really is, but it seems to work like super-glue on metal. Maybe even stronger than super glue *on metal to metal*. We'd use it at the factory where I worked and when a unit came back for repair work, the poor repair guy could not unthread what we had applied loctite to, so he'd have to hack-saw part off, then chisel out the rest. You shouldn't have to use a glue. Mine came out once by itself. I have taken it out on purpose a few times. I set it in there, then bring down the chuck and spindle with the drill press handle, to gently press it all together against the drill press table, then, I put a scrap board under the chuck (with the chuck jaws all the way open), and wack the wood piece a few times with a hammer. I wouldn't want the pieces to be oiled, but they should be cleaned, and if there's any sign of rust, I'd take care of that. Edited November 30, 2004 by soapbarstrat Quote
bigdguitars Posted November 30, 2004 Report Posted November 30, 2004 drill a hole in the chuck and add a set screw? my jacobs chuck has this.... Quote
stringkilla Posted November 30, 2004 Report Posted November 30, 2004 Hey Big G. The problem is the bearings on the shaft are'nt designed for lateral pressure, so while you are using the sanding drum you set up harmonic viabrations in the shaft and it losens the taper and the chuck falls out. Once you get the chuck back in, use the pressure method not the hammer, purchace a router bit collar fron the parts page in the manual and those troubles will be over. Quote
PerryL Posted December 1, 2004 Author Report Posted December 1, 2004 Thanx StringKilla, I always wondered what loosened it anyway and Now I know. Morse Tapers don't need a set screw though do they? If it were a straight shaft It may work. I'm going with the Emery cloth polish and Light Oil then pressing it back on with Pressure. I'm not gonna use the hammer though. What gives with the router bit collar? I'm not understanding this. Quote
soapbarstrat Posted December 1, 2004 Report Posted December 1, 2004 I think my drill press manual says it should be tapped in with a hammer. I know it takes hammer taps to get it out, with the tapered tool that you insert into the slot for doing that. Quote
daveq Posted December 1, 2004 Report Posted December 1, 2004 Mine also says to use a hammer. I have a Delta if that makes a difference. Quote
jer7440 Posted December 1, 2004 Report Posted December 1, 2004 If you use a hammer make sure the chuck jaws are all the way open, and put a piece of scrap wood between the chuck and the hammer so you don't peen over the metal of the chuck. Quote
CGHbuilder86 Posted December 1, 2004 Report Posted December 1, 2004 I have a friend that had this same problem. He said what you do to solve the problem is to lay the drill press down on it’s side and fully support the spindle shaft with a hardwood block or something. Then you take a metal chisel and hammer in tiny cuts around the shaft this gives the chuck something to grip. He said his hasn’t come off since. Quote
daveq Posted December 1, 2004 Report Posted December 1, 2004 How does using oil help it stay on? Does it form suction or something like that? Or is the oil there to prevent it from binding and makes it easier to remove later? Quote
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