daveq Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 I have a fret that didn't seat correctly. It is sticking up a bit in the middle. I could get away with leveling it and losing some height but that just doesn't sound like the best solution. So, I've decided to have at it and remove the fret. What I'm wondering is, should I start on one end and slowly pull it as I work my way across the board (leaving the other end fully seated) or should I try to pull it straight up and out? This is a new neck that I just fretted so it's not one of those side - slide installations that Fender once did. P.S. - I have tried to re-press it but I have a feeling something got in the slot and I didn't notice it. It will not go in any further. Obviously, I'm looking for a method that will result in the least amount of chipping out. It is a rosewood fretboard. Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 (edited) If Thy Frette Offends Thee then Pluck It Out! And so it is written, . I like to use flush grinded end nippers, start at one end and gently rock it out. The nippers tend to hold down the wood better when pulling. Either something got stuck in the middle or the fret is bent too much. Edited December 3, 2004 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 start at one end and "walk" the pullers accross the board. If they're glued in you'll want to heat the fret with a soldering iron too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 I just want to be sure what you mean. Do you change directions in the pulling or just one even stroke kind of deal? I'm not sure what you mean by rocking it. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Oops - I just saw what Scott wrote. I think I understand now. Does the heat of the soldering iron make the fret expand and take more wood with it? I guess I don't have much choice since I did use a small amount of CA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 I can only see the use of heat if the fret has been glued in and simply won't budge. I don't know how well it would loosen CA glue but works well for epoxied in frets. At least you have CA glue, sometimes chipping can't be totally avoided, so if something does break out you can glue them back in right after. Just in case cut along the edge of the fret (both sides with a sharp, thin bladed knife) to make sure there is no glue binding those edges with the surface of the rosewood. Then pull the fret. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Just in case cut along the edge of the fret (both sides with a sharp, thin bladed knife) to make sure there is no glue binding those edges with the surface of the rosewood. Then pull the fret. Very interesting! I have not heard of this trick before. It isn't noticeable after the new fret is in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Heat it, glue or no glue, it makes the pulling easier. Chipping isn't much of a problem on a new board, especially if you relieved the edges of the slot a little prior to fretting. If you do get any chips, a tiny dot of CA will hold the chip down, followed up by a wipe with acetone to remove any residue. This will repair the chips invisibly, provided you save the chips and deal with them straight away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 if there's already a gap under the middle of the fret. then that's where you start with the flush nippers to start pulling it up (by squeezing the nipper handles) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 OK, thanks again guys - greatly appreciated. This board is something I've been working on for a while. I just wish I was more careful examining the slots before fretting. I was so concerened with the amount (or lack of) of fret wire that I guess I let other things slip. This is the gold stuff that I got from Warmoth. I have room for exaclty one more mistake and then it's another $25! Ugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 What you need is a good soldering gun like they have suggested and a tip that has a slot filed out of it so you will get great contact along the fretwire. The best way is to have it slotted for the contour of the fretwire so it makes great contact for heat transfer. Heat it up some first before you even attempt to pull. I start at the edge first and pull slowly while heating while gently rocking the fret puller and prying it up as you go. You should also be wearing a mask if you used CA glue since it can be toxic when heated... Of course if you plan stuff out real good you shouldn't have to pull a newly installed fretwire... but.. *cough* mistakes do sometimes happen.. haha.. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 When you guys talk about rocking the puller - what do you mean? Are you rocking it toward the nut then the bridge or from side to side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted December 4, 2004 Report Share Posted December 4, 2004 I don't rock it, but I don't want to say what I do instead. One of the few secrets I'm going to hold onto. Just use common sense, and do it how you think will disturb the wood the least. But like I said before, if in this particular situation, you have a gap under the fret in the middle, start there and work out to the edges. That's exactly how I'm doing it on the neck I'm working on now. The frets were all popped up in the middle. No glue was used, super deep fret-slots, makes me shake my head at what these factories let out the door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 4, 2004 Report Share Posted December 4, 2004 Side to side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted December 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2004 Thanks again - it looks like it's going to be OK now. I taped along the sides, heated it and pulled from any point I could get my nippers to get a hold of it. I pulled very slowly - just enough to begin to feel it starting to move and then I backed off to prevent it from flying out. The only thing I might do differently next time is not tape since the heat made a bit of a mess of the adhesive. It looks like it's coming off with naptha though. I appreciate the info very much - this was a neck that I have really been working hard on and have had high hopes for. (not that the others are junk but I'll post pics soon and hopefully you'll see what I mean). Thank you, DaveQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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