Mickguard Posted December 11, 2004 Report Posted December 11, 2004 I have two telecaster clones that I'm modifying for my Bocaster project. Both have top mount bridges. Not an issue for one guitar--that's going to get a Bigsby eventually. On the other, I'd like to drill it for string through (I already have the ferrules). (I also have a stand for the drill, so it'll be straight) But where do you find a drill bit that's thin enough but long enough to go all the way through the body? Is there another technique for doing this? Should I start it with the drill then continue by hand? Quote
asm Posted December 11, 2004 Report Posted December 11, 2004 huh? how thick is your body exactly? Quote
Mickguard Posted December 11, 2004 Author Report Posted December 11, 2004 huh? how thick is your body exactly? it's standard telecaster thickness. The larger bit for the ferrules is long enough. But the smaller bit, for the holes for the strings themselves is not. I went to the hardware store and it was the same story--the smaller the diameter of the bit, the shorter it is. Quote
Reaper Posted December 11, 2004 Report Posted December 11, 2004 I don't recall the size bit (it's sitting at home), but I definately drilled for string through on my first axe (I was using a Carvin fixed bridge). Don't recall the body thickness, but it's just as thick, if not thicker than the saga tele I slapped together over the summer. Quote
Maiden69 Posted December 11, 2004 Report Posted December 11, 2004 any hardware store will have them, Drill bits are usualy longer than 3" if you can get one of those drill bit kits I will strongly recomend it.. Be aware that some of this ferrules, like I just found out on my neck ones use some akward size, but for the string thru ferrules I don't see any special bit needed, just go to a store, and ask a sales person to please open the kit for you to see if it will have one that fits. I recomend making sure that the kit have one that is a tad bigger than the ferrule, to make for the paint build up. Once you finish painting you can use a soldering Iron to ease the ferrule in. Quote
tdog Posted December 11, 2004 Report Posted December 11, 2004 I have always used a standard length 1/8in bit (DeWalt in this case) on any Tele that I've built. If you are using a Tele type bridge, the string through holes will line up perfectly with the holes in the bridge.....that is if everything is correctly drilled. Drill carefully, slowly about 1/8-1/4in at a time so you can clear the chips and avoid clogging the bit. If it clogs, it will have a tendancy to wander and not give you a truehole to line up with you ferrules in the back......The length of the bit will just be enough to poke through the back of the body....A max of about 1.75in. Quote
asm Posted December 11, 2004 Report Posted December 11, 2004 if you have to get a longer bit, just look around for one with a longer 'shank' thats what they call the lenght. also, what kind of wood are you cutting, should set up your drill press to the speed of the wood your cutting, else you can severely f* up your bits and wood real quick. Quote
Mickguard Posted December 11, 2004 Author Report Posted December 11, 2004 if you have to get a longer bit, just look around for one with a longer 'shank' thats what they call the lenght. also, what kind of wood are you cutting, should set up your drill press to the speed of the wood your cutting, else you can severely f* up your bits and wood real quick. Okay, you guys are giving me some hope... The body is alder --a very lightweight alder --does that mean I should drill more slowly? Also, the bridge doesn't have the string through holes...yet. But that shouldn't be too difficult to correct... I'm wondering if it's worth the bother...I mean, is there a huge effect on the sound of the guitar? Personally, I prefer the look of the top mount, but that's a minor thing. Quote
asm Posted December 11, 2004 Report Posted December 11, 2004 you'll be fine with alder. i was just cutting ebony last night with a forstner bit and she was smoking up a storm cause the rpms were to high. just watch out for woods like ebony, rosewoods, lignum, rock maple, ect. alder isnt that tough well, for me, and im probably wrong, but i dont associate the insane sustain (not that a string thru will give you *that* much more) with a tele. if you do decide to go string thru then take your time on drilling the holes, you can EASILY tell if they are off a 32nd. and you dont wanna mess something like that up. make plenty of test cuts on scrap before you do the body. just a bit of warning. i think litch did one and it looked pretty sketchy cause he rushed thru it. Quote
javacody Posted December 12, 2004 Report Posted December 12, 2004 Yeah, look at around at some guys' string through jobs. They get real messy real quick. I've read about some templates that guys have made that gave them good holes, even with a hand drill. Use the search function. Also, I've seen long bits at places like Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc. etc. Quote
Mickguard Posted December 12, 2004 Author Report Posted December 12, 2004 I've read about some templates that guys have made that gave them good holes, even with a hand drill. I've seen some of those "messy" jobs...kind of ruins it. I mean, I already don't like the way those ferrules look... But what about using the bridge itself as a template? Or are the holes in that too small? Anyway, thanks to your encouragement I think I'll just stay happy with the top mount..! there's always next year's Tele for string-through Quote
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