Jump to content

Swirl Finishes Again


Recommended Posts


Hi, first post here.

look this is a taboo subject i know, but i need some help.

i have suceeded in swirling some dimensional objects, but small ones.

eggs, pieces of wood etc. i'm using oil based ceramic tile paints available from my local hardware store. have done some study of suminagashi to help with the swirl patterns.i have limited colours, and am working on a very small scale.

I am now ready to attack a guitar body, a squire strat body, its stripped ready to go. so i'll seal the wood, prime it, and key it.

I'll insert some wood at the neck joint to do the immersion.

here is what i need.

what sort of surface area of swirled paint am i looking at to complete the swirl in one dip. As its a large object, will the paint stay firm against the guitar body low down in the tank, whilst i clean the surface of the tank free from excess paint.

Also, i need some help with primers,paints and clearcoats that will all work in unison without reaction taking place.

i live in the Channel Islands UK, far away from anywhere that offers a swirling service, and i know of about 9 or 10 jobs i could do, when i get this right, so it's in my interests to learn.

I know there are people here and on jemsite.com that can do this, and maybe they have gone down the same road as i have.

any help would be great.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally I can't get over how many people actually dip down in a barrel :D

Here's a picture of the tank I use and it is just barely big enough to handle the body.....


As you can see that tank has done a couple of GMC's for private party's :D and I use an actual neck that has been cut off for my handle, would you believe it was a Jem DSY at one time B) and a vine at that!

Your going to want to pick up a good primer/sealer/bonder yes it's an all in one product with a white base to it.

When it comes to the clear you should stay away from lacquer (even thought it works) just because it takes forever to cure. Go with a poly of some sorts, personally I use a water based one that dries fast.

The key to remember on the clear though is to make sure your colors have dried completely before you start with it.

P.S. Almost nothing is taboo here except flaming people and their guitars........

Link to comment
Share on other sites


ok, great stuff, i'll source this 3 in 1 primer and look at water based clear coats.

do you use more clearcoat on a finish of this type to ensure not buffing through the finish ?.

and that bowl is so small ???.

how are you immersing the guitar body ?.

are you getting the swirl into the cavities ?.

and all that excess paint, surely you must skim the suface first before

withdrawing ?.

anyway i'm gonna try some larger objects with cavities first, to ensure getting it right.

when its done, good or bad i'll up some pic's.


Keith White.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...