Jump to content

Drilling "tuner" Holes...


RGGR

Recommended Posts

Okay.... I pretty much know the answer to this question already.......but is there a clever way of drilling the tuner holes???

I guess I need a drill press, right?

To line the tuner machines (Gotoh 510 Mini) I have drawn little template in Autocad.

For test drilling I hand drilled some 10mm holes in piece of scrap wood. The holes looked pretty good, but not all were on same line.

Now I don't know how a drill press could prevent this.

Is there clever way of doing this.

Make dead right wood/acrylic template, and use that as guide???

Any experts out there.

Same with fret marker dots? Hear many horror stories about drilling those holes too.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A real good brad point drill bit from a fine woodworking store will do it. Use an awl to "punch" the center point. Then the good bit will sit nice into the dpression to make your holes right where they need to be.

I make dead on templates with tempered masonite or Lexan. Then use the brad point bit to drill the final hole with the template attached. If you're using a hand drill, well they may not be as level as can be. You want to use a 13/32" bit.

-Doug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I mark a line and space the holes with a digital caliper (using one of the caliper tips to make a small dent), then make a bigger dent with a small awl. Then I use a forstner bit in a drill press rather than a drill bit as I find it makes a cleaner hole on the face of the headstock; the center tip of the forstner works just like the brad-point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I make dead on templates with tempered masonite or Lexan. Then use the brad point bit to drill the final hole with the template attached. If you're using a hand drill, well they may not be as level as can be. You want to use a 13/32" bit.

Hmmm, that might be a good suggestion. Make template out of lexan.....using small drill bit, to make small holes that line up. Use these small holes as guides for the brad point 10mm bit.

Was planning buying drill press already.....so this will make sure the holes line up. Thanks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i actually drilled my first perfect tuner holes on my current project...no tearout,chipping...holes were dead on...i used a drill press with a standard drill bit...but i think the key was that i clamped the haedstock down to the drill press with a flat block of wood sandwiched in between.

and i did not force the drill press...just let it drill slow,and backed out quite a bit while drilling,to clean out the hole as i went

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forestner bits are ok, but they cut out sort of a bigger chunk. I like the drill bit because it cuts a very sharp edge that comes out very clean.

It's true, you'll need to clamp that headstock to a "backer" piece of wood. This reduces that chance of tearout considerably.

-Doug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

like some have already said...use a backer board, center punch - I use one that all you do is push and it is spring loaded, dont need to smack it with a hammer, use a pilot hole is a big help...etc.

Another thing you may try to prevent tearout, drill half way from one side and then flip it over and finish, obviously need to use a pilot hole for this.

Drill bits are one area, in my opinion, that you shouldn't try and save money. Some tools you may be able to scimp on but a good quality drill bit is well worth the money

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...