Blueroomstudios Posted January 4, 2005 Report Share Posted January 4, 2005 I'm sorry for asking this but I really couldn't find it in a search. When wet sanding, do you still sand in a linear fashion or circular. . Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www Posted January 4, 2005 Report Share Posted January 4, 2005 Always sand with the grain if possible. Wet sanding or otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted January 4, 2005 Report Share Posted January 4, 2005 (edited) Hmmmm, after all my paint and clearcoats have been laid down there is usually no longer any grain to abide by. The grain is filled and I am dealing with a homogenous surface. So it doesn't matter what direction or method you go by so long as the surface is sanded evenly and kept free of irregularities. But between coats I DO sand with the grain at the surface level. Edited January 4, 2005 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blueroomstudios Posted January 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2005 well...I'll be wet sanding the clear coat over a fabric top. The will be long gone under the fabric so I guess it doesn't matter? O rodes it. Thanks for your help so far guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted January 4, 2005 Report Share Posted January 4, 2005 What Southpa said, it doesn't matter. You're sanding a finish, not wood. Finish has no grain. Actually, the best advice I can give when wet-sanding (if by hand) is to not bear down too hard, you'll put scratches deep into the finish. Keep it light and fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 4, 2005 Report Share Posted January 4, 2005 to add on what Drak said, if you can get a dense foam or urethane pad, this is a safe way to avoid scrathes or uneven sanding. And let your paper soak over night to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted January 4, 2005 Report Share Posted January 4, 2005 (edited) And to add further, keep lots of paper towel handy to mop up "the juices". Every time you mop up inspect your progress. You don't want to break thru the finish. I usually leave corners and edges for last and don't hit them with the rougher grits that I began with on the flat surfaces. Heres a pic of some "in between" wetsanding progress from my SG copy. When I encounter dimples, dents etc. that won't sand without compromising the thickness of the surrounding finish I spot fill them later. This was a rattle can job so stuff like orange peel and other imperfections are difficult to avoid. I like to minimize this effect by smoothing out the finish as best I can between shoots. You can see that there is still lots to do from this pic. Some grain pattern in the lower, unsanded area still showing thru. I just give it a light scuffing so the next layer sticks better and then shoot some more. Edited January 4, 2005 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 4, 2005 Report Share Posted January 4, 2005 that paint job looks . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted January 4, 2005 Report Share Posted January 4, 2005 that paint job looks . . . . why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted January 4, 2005 Report Share Posted January 4, 2005 that paint job looks . . . . AHH Hahaha, c'mon don't hold back! Say what ya gotta say. Thats what this forum is here for. I'm always experimenting with something different. Like I said the pic in the above post is from an in-between stage of the job. Here is the finished back. BTW, thats black rattlecan ENAMEL you are looking at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 why? Runs, pinholes, those "lines" over the control cavity. Just that I loved painting stuff from a very early stage, and my dad made sure that I was doing things right... I will love to get my hands on a compressor and some poly, I will cut finishing time more than half. this are examples of my guitars before any colorsanding (wet sanding) to the clear coat. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01766.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01768.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01688.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01142.jpg And this has been the worst one that I got http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01015.jpg I don't know why but it had so much orange peel that I decided to sand the clear until smooth and reshot 3 more coats. Southpa, if that's the guitar you used for the GOTM a few months ago I knew it turned out great, is just the inbetween! I try to keep the spraying as tight as possible to save me a lot of time sanging and filling. Even the tut on Stew Mac with dan painting that blue tele made clinch when I saw them pinholes and him trying to absorb some drop that fell on the body with paper towel, I'm glad he abmited that it would had been better to leave it alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 Oh, all i basically see is the grain lines, but hey, it came out great when polished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 Heres a pic of some "in between" wetsanding progress from my SG copy. When I encounter dimples, dents etc. that won't sand without compromising the thickness of the surrounding finish I spot fill them later. This was a rattle can job so stuff like orange peel and other imperfections are difficult to avoid. Hi southpa... are you wetsanding the color coat or the clear coat here? I'm still highly confused about the whole process...wish I could find a true step-by-step tutorial on this --every thing I read just kind of glosses over all the minor steps. Like, I've got a clear coat on there-- do I want to wet sand that before I do the next clear coat? What about that scuffed up look-- isn't that an issue? Or do I do the next clear coat/s first --and only start wet sanding at the very end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/bridge...e_guitar01.html http://reranch.august.net/ReRanch101.html Here you go 2 step by step tutorials free of charge. make sure that you take your time preping the area to be painted since applying color and clear will amplify any defects. and that once you got the guitar ready for paint, you should only apply enough color base so that it is uniform, there is not need to build up the color coats or to color sand them unless there are any blemishes on the finish. one or 2 coats of color is more than enough. HTe clear is the same thing but dependng on what you use you will have to apply a lot of coats, in nitro I will say that about 9 coats of 3 passes all over the guitar should be enough. and if you apply it correctly, you shouldn't have to colorsand until you are done. before polishing. This paint usualy burns thru realy nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 Here you go 2 step by step tutorials free of charge. make sure Thanks, but I've been over and over both sites. They're real helpful but they still leave me confused The trade secrets site doesn't deal with color coats either, which doesn't help. And they tend to contradict each other... I've also looked at other sites, some people claim they don't wet sanding until the last clear coat is on, others start wet sanding with the color coat, etc... What'd be nice would be something like this: Step #32 Spray color coat #33 Let dry X hours #34 Sand w/ X grain #35 Sand w/ X grain etc... #39 Spray color coat, etc. # 45 Spray clear coat # 46 Let dry X hours/days well, you get the idea... Sure, sure, I'll figure this out on my own...I don't mind messing up along the way either... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 Are you sure that you read the ReRanch site completely, because it is not in order #s but all the info you need is there... Well, I think I will help you, now! this is the way I do it and maybe it will be different that what others do, especially if they are using 2 part poly. For solid colors 1. get the wood ready. Sanding sealer, primer, grain filler. no matter what you use make sure the prep here is inmaculate. If you are using a wood with big pores use grain filler, if not use primer or sanding sealer, I prefer sanding sealer with nitro, and primer with Duplicolor paint. The trick is to use enough to get the surface smooth as a babys butt here. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01098.jpg this is a pic of one of my bodies with primer done ready for base coat. **** USE A PRIMER THAT IS CLOSE TO YOUR BASE COLOR**** Like you see here the primer is white and the base is silver, if it was a darker color I would use the correct shade of gray, or the clay color one for redish and earth colors. **** WAIT AT LEAST 1 DAY TO HAVE IT CURE PROPERTLY**** You can paint before but I rather wait to be safe. 2 base coat Once you have the primer nice with no blemishes, sand with 600 to scuff up the surface for the base coat to adeher to. after this take all dust out from the body with a damp cloth and once dried use a tach cloth to remove any lint of dust that would have remained, some places recomend using naphta, I haven't yet, but I will try it. Now here is were a lot of people go crazy. Just spray enough base color to cover evenly. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01100.jpg this is the same body after 2 light coats of metallic silver. 1 light coat = 2 passes over the body with the color overlapping 50% over the previous pass. I am a firm believer of the 50% deal and you won't see this here a lot. 1 heavy coat will be 4 -5 times over the entire body. 3. Grafixx ( I know this is not the way it's spelled but I like it this way!!! ) If you are going to apply grafixx over the base now is the time. I recomend you seal the base coat with 1 light coat of clear before you apply the grafixx. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01142.jpg Here you can see the grafixx on mine, I masked, then painted the dark blue areas removed the mask and cover the entire thing with translucent blue (metalcast from Duplicolor). Depending on the type of paint you will have to wait 1-5 days before clear coating. Here the same rule as that as little paint as nescessary applies.!!! 4. Clear If you are not doing any grafixx and will leave this the same color, dust one light coat over the entire body wait about 5 minutes for it to tach up, then spray 1 heavy coat. wait about 3-4 hrs spray another coat in the same way, dust 1 pass wait 5 min and then spray 1 heavy coat. I don't lie the rule of 3 of ReRanch since I had drying problems the last time I did it (I used Duplicolor and I think I lay it too thick) step away from the guitar until next day and start over 2 more coats in the previous fashion. I do about 9 coats of nitro, don't lay it too wet, and I don't like to paint with the body laying flat, you can get too cocky and lay it too thick, I spray with the guitar perpendicular to the floor and twist it around as I paint. As you can see in the pics above the guitar is in a jig, I just rotate it to paint. Once all this is done, if you took your time and didn't lay the paint too thick you will be ready to colorsand and polish http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01125.jpg this is the same guitar after 4 coats of Krylon triple thick glaze were sprayed in 2 days. This stuff lays thick, so you don't need that many coats, but it doesn't like hot areas or sunlight. Thia paint job was trashed because I left it outside and the sun hit it for about 1 hr thru the shade of a tree doing this http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01203.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01202.jpg I ahte this paint and will never use it. Stick with the ones you are familiar, or duplicolor, or DEFT which is the one I use and it's nitro. Hope this will help you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 Wow guy's this is a great thread very helpfull!! and even I learend a thing or two !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 (edited) Well, I think I will help you, now! this is the way I do it and maybe it will be different that what others do, especially if they are using 2 part poly. Hope this will help you! Damn Maiden, where were you a couple of weeks ago! Excellent, excellent, you make it nice n' clear. I can see exactly where I went wrong --and how to go about doing it the next time. If anyone from Project Guitar is reading this --how about posting Maiden's how-to on the main site? Better than Reranch's --better than Stewmac's too! Only question--what do you mean by color-sanding? Do you mean wet-sanding? Hmmm, maybe you should add a few more lines about your final sanding and polishing routine too... Thanks again man...I'm ready to have another go at the Bocaster...my friends call me the pitbull, 'cause I never give up! Edited January 5, 2005 by idch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blueroomstudios Posted January 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 Thanks to everyone who had some input into this. You answered my question and then some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 Only question--what do you mean by color-sanding? Do you mean wet-sanding? Yes. Colr sanding is the same thing as wet sanding. Seriously, what I posted is the same info you will get from both sites I gave you, maybe I just put it on simple words. I will copy and paste this on LGMs (Jeremys) post about spray can paints that I think is pinned on the paint tutorials, that way I can refer people to it instead of writting everything all the time. This is a question that gets asked a lot. On the polishing there is one pretty good at the finishing tut forum, I will post a link. Links polishing tutorial http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=1723 painting http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...findpost&p=9162 good tut http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...indpost&p=15605 as you can see, there is a lot of good info here, if you go to the pinned sections in the different forum you will find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 6, 2005 Report Share Posted January 6, 2005 Seriously, what I posted is the same info you will get from both sites I gave you, maybe I just put it on simple words. On the polishing there is one pretty good at the finishing tut forum, I will post a link. No, I think you fill in some of their missing information. It's definitely clearer for me. Thanks for the links-- I hadn't discovered the tutorial section... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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