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Stripping Trouble


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Hi,

Just started to strip a JS1000w for a refinish today... but its not going well at all. I got some Nitromorse and followed the instructions but it did absolutely nothing to the paint. I figured this might have just been the lacquer or the top finish so I sanded through that and tried again. Still the finish didnt budge. I guess I used the wrong stripper. What will srtip the finish from a JS1000wh? or will I have to do it by hand with some wet and dry paper. The only other chemical option from my local shop is Strypit from ronseal, is that any better

any advice will be much appreciated

Thanks

Steve

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I searched round and found on this site that it could be a two part polyester finish...

the problem is that there is a massive finish crack that runs from the rear strap button along the edge of the guitar and then accross teh face to the trem cavity. And Im worried that this will reappear if i dont completely remove the finish adn fill adn redrill the strap button holes. I need to take it all off to be sure.

Otherwise i would have just sanded leveld and refinished

Any help would be much appreciated

Steve

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Klean-Strip Antique Stripper has given me the best luck....i stripped close to 20 bodies with it....some it would eat all the way down too the wood...others it would take the clear coat and color off well, and then i power sand the top and back and hand sand the sides. hope that helps ya...i use the spray can version.:D

Edited by BJPUC
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Ibanez bodies are polyester finishes. Your nitro stuff won't do anything to it. The best method is to use heat, I don't recommend strippers on wood at all, it's to hard to be 100% sure that all the stripper chemical is out of the wood before you repaint, and also, if the body is glued in multiple pieces, the stripper can actually attack the glue.

Heat removes the finish and you don't risk sanding to deep into the wood. Of course, if you're careful, sanding is a tried and true method.

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Usualy those cracks are just in the paint, but I think it is a good idea to check it. I don't think that filling the holes is necessary, but it's your call. There is a tutorial on the main site on doing what LGM just told you with the heat. I would just sand the area were the crack is to inspect the wood and make sure it's OK, then use sanding sealer or any polyester based epoxy to reseal the wood and refinish. There is no need to remove all the paint if you plan on doing a solid color.

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Hey thanks for your advice guys, much appreciated!!!

I had started to look into a heat gun there a day or two back. I also contacted a few paint stripper companies, like rustins, and they all said that they didnt have a product that would strip polyester. So I think Im going to have to go with heat im just not good enough with a sander to get all those curves.

As far as the crack goes, Ive sanded back quite far and the crack is still there. You could feel that the crack had become raised before i started to sand it. It felt like moisture had started to swell it a bit. I want to see whats going on under there as I dont want this to reappear when refinished.

Do you wave the heat gun over the surface in a spraying like motion or do you hold it quite still.

Thanks again

Steve

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I am on my third Ovation Solidbody strip and redo. They use the 2 part poly finish as well. the best stripper I have found is the "Aircraft Paint Stripper" found in the auto parts stores.

Each one I had to take to the wood and then some. Bill Kaman (CWK2) on the Ovation Fan Club site said "50 grit takes it down every time"!

It is tough stuff. Stripper, like you said, takes some down in one application and other spots not at all.

Tedious, yes. :D

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Hi,

Just started to strip a JS1000w for a refinish today... but its not going well at all. I got some Nitromorse and followed the instructions but it did absolutely nothing to the paint. I figured this might have just been the lacquer or the top finish so I sanded through that and tried again. Still the finish didnt budge. I guess I used the wrong stripper. What will srtip the finish from a JS1000wh? or will I have to do it by hand with some wet and dry paper. The only other chemical option from my local shop is Strypit from ronseal, is that any better

any advice will be much appreciated

Thanks

Steve

I'm gonna guess that you're a Brit? You guys are hamstrug by not having really good toxic stuff to work with. Kleen Strip KS3 eats polyester and polyurethane for breakfast, but it also is hard on the skin and lungs. Regular stripper is not much better than water on these tough finishes.

Heat will work but be careful. A lot of guitars are assembled with glues that heat will soften. Learned that the hard way. Be really careful around bindings. You can also scorch the wood if you get too aggressive. Keep the gun moving and do a small area at a time. Remember to wear a mask that filters chemicals not just dust 'cause heating these things up releases all kinds of funky stuff.

Take your time and don't get frustrated. All methods take ten times loger than you ever estimate.

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Hi,

Just started to strip a JS1000w for a refinish today... but its not going well at all. I got some Nitromorse and followed the instructions but it did absolutely nothing to the paint. I figured this might have just been the lacquer or the top finish so I sanded through that and tried again. Still the finish didnt budge. I guess I used the wrong stripper. What will srtip the finish from a JS1000wh? or will I have to do it by hand with some wet and dry paper. The only other chemical option from my local shop is Strypit from ronseal, is that any better

any advice will be much appreciated

Thanks

Steve

I'm gonna guess that you're a Brit? You guys are hamstrug by not having really good toxic stuff to work with. Kleen Strip KS3 eats polyester and polyurethane for breakfast, but it also is hard on the skin and lungs. Regular stripper is not much better than water on these tough finishes.

Heat will work but be careful. A lot of guitars are assembled with glues that heat will soften. Learned that the hard way. Be really careful around bindings. You can also scorch the wood if you get too aggressive. Keep the gun moving and do a small area at a time. Remember to wear a mask that filters chemicals not just dust 'cause heating these things up releases all kinds of funky stuff.

Take your time and don't get frustrated. All methods take ten times loger than you ever estimate.

I take offence! I most certainly am not a Bit!! Im Irish and proud... just happen to be studying in the UK at the moment :D

thanks for the advice! yeah I was quite dissappointed when nothing happened with the stripppers alright. Ill have to get myself a decent mask thing ... I guess it shouldnt be too hard to find

Cheers

Steve

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Whoops. Didn't mean to insult you. My family left Ireland in 1860, only we sailed west instead of east.

I've had a couple of Brits working for me off and on so I have learned a bit about their ways and lack of decent toxins to work with.

I never will understand warm beer.

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I wouldnt recommend chemical strippers either... Its been 4 days and my RG doesnt wanna cooperate... Its real messy and im afraid im never gonna get all of the chemicals out.. Also with all the scraping im afraid im gonna hurt the poor old body... Wish i had thought of using my heat gun before i started... If you want pics of what the chem strip looks like on mine go to parkerfly.250free.com and go to RG Project... there are some pics there.. Keep in mind that its been 4 days and ive been down there like ever 3 hours nonstop!

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Theres more than one way to skin a ca... er. guitar. :D Its not a pleasant job, very labor intensive, messy and potentially dangerous. I've stripped boats, furniture, guitars, I even did an oak toilet seat once. There are no shortcuts, every square inch has to be dealt with. You basically have to do whatever it takes to strip down a guitar, that usually involves a combination of heat (when available) , chemicals and sheer brute force. When I start a job I look at the guitar and just say, "I'm gonna get medievel on yo ass". I've had good results with Circa 1850 furniture stripper, applied by rattlecan. If you want to find the real deal talk to any local pros in your neighborhood. Furniture refinishers, boat builders etc. could tell you what "industrial strength" products they use that might be more effective than what you have.

Edited by Southpa
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Thanks folks.

Have been mulling this over for a long time... While intermittenly sanding it down by hand (its difficult to even use a sanding block on a JS) .. Im making some progress by hand. Im off home in a few days so Im going to use my Dads workshop. he has a couple of belt and drum sander type things and just carefully take the majority of the finish down.... and do the fiddly bits by hand. That or I will go visit a panel beater friend of mine and see what strippers he can get his hands on for me.

as an aside ... Having spent alot of time staring at this one body it Looks like Ibanez made a mess of the neck pocket route. so thats going to have to be filled reshaped a little.. Hope the rustins plastic wood stuff is up to the challenge ans stresses of being part of a neck pocket. should be no problem though...

havent seen that on any of my other Ibanez guitars before. wonder how this one made it out of the factory.

will post pics of my progress.

thanks again for the help and advice.. Im sure ill be back for more.

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