dragonjackson Posted February 15, 2005 Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 hello, i am a newbie in this forum.. and have a question. how can is finish a pickguard (or anything else) like its on this picture: i have read something about acidizing, but i dont know how and which acid should i use?! any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted February 15, 2005 Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 What kind of metal are you going to use? Different metals react differently. Some are easy to oxidize, like copper. Some are a toxic nightmre, like stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonjackson Posted February 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 What kind of metal are you going to use? Different metals react differently. Some are easy to oxidize, like copper. Some are a toxic nightmre, like stainless. ← well it depends. i dont thionk its gonna be copper. i want a colour that is similiear to the on the picture - siver/metal-colour. so... if you can say, which one it could be, i gonna search for. p.s. sorry for my terrible english Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted February 15, 2005 Report Share Posted February 15, 2005 I'd start out with Muratic acid. This is a nasty concoction that is used by the masonry trades to clean up brickwork. It's available at Lowe's or Homer Depot. I'd make a really diluted solution and try the metal in a cold bath of it. Rules. 1) Always wear goggles that cover everything. Don't take them off until after you've washed your hands. 2) Always wear gloves. The longer the cuff the better. 3)Aprons are good too. Water repellent ones. 3) Work in a well ventilated area, like the outside. Away from your house. 4) Remember that every 10 degrees C you increase the temperature of a reaction will double the speed of the reaction. As some reactions give off heat they can self speed up until they go boom. Try a small piece of whatever before you do a large piece. 5) Chemical fire extinguishers are very necessary. 6) "Do like you oughta and add acid to water." Never the other way around. Freshman chemistry 101. Never forget some things. 7) Magnesium is a metal that has a tendency to explode and burn in all manner of rections. Don't use it. 8) Use baking soda to neutralize the acid. Make up a jug of soda and water before you start. This is a weak base and pretty safe stuff. 9) Strong bases will also age metal but they are much more dangerous. If you get a strong base in your eyes you will be blind with no recourse so stay away from them. This is a process that can really cause some problems for the inexperienced, but if you're careful you should be okay. 10) My last rule is the most important one. If you think that something is too dangerous it usually is. Listen to the little voice going "I dont think we know what we're doing." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 If you're using A36 or something similar, the muratic acid trick is probably the best. After you pickle it (what you're doing by soaking it in acid) it should rust pretty quick. Depending on the amount of rust you want, you can leave it outside. There are plenty of other methods, but if you're only doing one piece one time, muratic acid is the easiest pickling agent to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonjackson Posted February 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 (edited) ok, that seems to be the way. and for germans ;-) - as a material i gonna use A36? this is steel? am i right? ASTM A36.... i hope someone in germany can handle that. (what says the A36? is it international?) also, how is the endfinish of the pickguard? do i have to mask it with a clear coat of... something? Edited February 16, 2005 by dragonjackson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 It goes without saying, if you plan to mess around with muriatic acid use extreme caution. There are other ways. When I was rebuilding my truck I would treat some areas on the steel body panels with a rust inhibitor called "Rust-mort" after welding. All steel, no matter how shiny it looks, has traces of iron oxide in it. When you paint the rust inhibitor on, the oxide in the metal turns grayish black. Wash off with water and wipe down. Rust-mort is also a dangerous chemical, then again, ANY chemical used to permanantly alter the appearance of steel will be dangerous one way or another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonjackson Posted February 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 (edited) thanks southpa, that seems to be the "nearest" way to become a result as shown in the picture above! Edited February 16, 2005 by dragonjackson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToneMonkey Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 Pesonally, I'd go what seems to me like the easy route and polish up a bit of rusty metal. There's a wheel barrow in my garden that you can have if you come to pick it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 I'm not sure if A36 is international, I'm assuming it is, though. It's the most widely available mild steel. Most sheet metal (steel), and mild bar stock are A36. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 Mix up a salt water brine with some rock salt and water. Soak your piece of steel in it for a few days until heavily rusted. Scrub off excess with steel wool. Bake in the oven at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes or completely dry. Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted February 19, 2005 Report Share Posted February 19, 2005 Mix up a salt water brine with some rock salt and water. Soak your piece of steel in it for a few days until heavily rusted. Scrub off excess with steel wool. Bake in the oven at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes or completely dry. Enjoy. ← Bake? You're serious? Is there a reason for this? I'm getting ready to make a pickguard...I'll be using the metal from an old shelf unit that's been rusting gracefully in my garage for the last five years... Also, I was thinking about clear-coating the pickguard once the rust has reached the look I want--any thoughts on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted February 19, 2005 Report Share Posted February 19, 2005 Remember the rule of thumb for chemical reactions is that every 10 degrees centigrade that you raise the temperature doubles the speed of the reation. You can clear coat the guard as long as you have neutralized the reaction. With salt this means washing it off real well and getting it bone dry. It's still going to have a tendency to lift at the corrroded areas in time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 19, 2005 Report Share Posted February 19, 2005 Mix up a salt water brine with some rock salt and water. Soak your piece of steel in it for a few days until heavily rusted. Scrub off excess with steel wool. Bake in the oven at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes or completely dry. Enjoy. ← mmmm sounds like a tasty resipe AFter I get done with rusting it (which ever way I choose) Could I like clear coat it to make it so it doesent rub off on my hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted February 19, 2005 Report Share Posted February 19, 2005 Try here for some good info on patinas. http://www.secure.sciencecompany.com/thesc...tina.cfm?SID=1& Or go to the artmetal.com forums. Tri-Ess Sciences can also be of help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvertonessuckbutigotone Posted February 19, 2005 Report Share Posted February 19, 2005 Mix up a salt water brine with some rock salt and water. Soak your piece of steel in it for a few days until heavily rusted. Scrub off excess with steel wool. Bake in the oven at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes or completely dry. Enjoy. 350 F or 350 C? remember this dude is from germany. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted February 20, 2005 Report Share Posted February 20, 2005 I'd start out with Muratic acid. This is a nasty concoction that is used by the masonry trades to clean up brickwork. It's available at Lowe's or Homer Depot. I'd make a really diluted solution and try the metal in a cold bath of it. Rules. 1) Always wear goggles that cover everything. Don't take them off until after you've washed your hands. 2) Always wear gloves. The longer the cuff the better. 3)Aprons are good too. Water repellent ones. 3) Work in a well ventilated area, like the outside. Away from your house. 4) Remember that every 10 degrees C you increase the temperature of a reaction will double the speed of the reaction. As some reactions give off heat they can self speed up until they go boom. Try a small piece of whatever before you do a large piece. 5) Chemical fire extinguishers are very necessary. 6) "Do like you oughta and add acid to water." Never the other way around. Freshman chemistry 101. Never forget some things. 7) Magnesium is a metal that has a tendency to explode and burn in all manner of rections. Don't use it. 8) Use baking soda to neutralize the acid. Make up a jug of soda and water before you start. This is a weak base and pretty safe stuff. 9) Strong bases will also age metal but they are much more dangerous. If you get a strong base in your eyes you will be blind with no recourse so stay away from them. This is a process that can really cause some problems for the inexperienced, but if you're careful you should be okay. 10) My last rule is the most important one. If you think that something is too dangerous it usually is. Listen to the little voice going "I dont think we know what we're doing." ← 2 things: i LOVE that property of magnesium. u have noidea how many bonfires ive started with a little magnesium from chem. class and some water usually, i ignore that little voice. hes justa wet blanket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted February 20, 2005 Report Share Posted February 20, 2005 Mix up a salt water brine with some rock salt and water. Soak your piece of steel in it for a few days until heavily rusted. Scrub off excess with steel wool. Bake in the oven at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes or completely dry. Enjoy. 350 F or 350 C? remember this dude is from germany. ← Let me know if you find a baking oven that goes to 350C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 20, 2005 Report Share Posted February 20, 2005 Mix up a salt water brine with some rock salt and water. Soak your piece of steel in it for a few days until heavily rusted. Scrub off excess with steel wool. Bake in the oven at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes or completely dry. Enjoy. 350 F or 350 C? remember this dude is from germany. ← Let me know if you find a baking oven that goes to 350C. ← ya thats like 662F I think my oven gets to 650F when I set it to the clean cycle but I sure wouldent put anything into it unless you like it WELL done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalcarver Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 It looks like a piece of brass that's been sitting around the shop for years. Make it out of brass and shine it up and everyone will ooh and ahh. Then a couple months of drool, beer, and sweat and you have one of them there patinas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonjackson Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 thanks a lot guys... well... baking.... after all... i didnt understand, why baking??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 Baking just raises the temperature and makes things happen much faster. Good things and oh yeah bad things too. 350 Farenheit is 177 C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonjackson Posted February 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2005 oh, i see... so if i am done with the aging, when my pickguard ist rusty enough. can i stop the process? i dont want to have brown hands, while playing.... do i have to finish it somehow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted February 23, 2005 Report Share Posted February 23, 2005 Sorry it's been a few days since I replied. Anyway, baking the steel for a little bit after you've scrubbed off the excess will sort of "harden" the patina. It's not going to be completely rub proof, but it won't be flaking off, either. Here's an experiment. Find the cheapest coated pan you can find at the store. Scrub off some of the coating with scotch brite or steel wool. Place it in some sort of brine for a few days--then bake it. It will be damn near impossible to scrub that rust off. Now, if you want the metal to rust faster, bake the whole brine and steel together in the oven at about 450 F for a few hours with a sheet of aluminum foil between the pan and the steel. The only reason why I wouldn't do that is because it's a big waste of electricity or gas and it really heats up your house fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonjackson Posted February 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2005 ok, now! thats the info, that i missed! thanks a lot! will report the result! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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