Help With Scale Length

[cwoodall]

Hi..................whatta site. I have an easy question. On the gutarbuild.com site, there is a CAD file for a LP Double Cutaway Custom. I want to mark my acrylic pattern with the centerline and a reference point for the 24-9/16" scale length. There appears to be a "dashed" verticle line at what looks to be the center of the bridge (not the centerline of the holes). Is this the reference point I'm looking for?

........just want to get the correct measurement 3 times, measure twice, cut once..

Thanks,

Curtis

[Maher]

im working from that same plan

[Southpa]

I would say that line is the centerpoint for the saddles on the bridge. HOWEVER, if you were to look at a regular LP drawing w/ TOM bridge and stop tailpiece, you will notice that the scale length is set at the saddle of the first string. All other saddles are adjusted to accomodate for string heights and thicknesses, ie. saddles are set further back from the 1st one. That is why the TOM is positioned on a slight angle with about 1/8" difference in string length between the bass and treble sides. Like you say, measure twice, cut/drill once, good idea!

So if you plan to set the single piece bridge/tailpiece unit like on this guitar (perpendicular to the centerline) make sure there is enough saddle play to accomodate all ranges of intonation for every string. So adjust the first saddle a little more forward than usual and use that distance for your initial scale length. Then adjust the rest of the saddles accordingly, General rule of thumb is to adjust the next saddle back by the thickness of the preceeding string (works for me). You don't want to run out of intonation adjustment room by the time you reach the low E string.

[cwoodall]

I would say that line is the centerpoint for the saddles on the bridge.  HOWEVER, if you were to look at a regular LP drawing w/ TOM bridge and stop tailpiece, you will notice that the scale length is set at the saddle of the first string.  All other saddles are adjusted to accomodate for string heights and thicknesses, ie. saddles are set further back from the 1st one.  That is why the TOM is positioned on a slight angle with about 1/8" difference in string length between the bass and treble sides.  Like you say, measure twice, cut/drill once, good idea!  

So if you plan to set the single piece bridge/tailpiece unit like on this guitar (perpendicular to the centerline)  make sure there is enough saddle play to accomodate all ranges of intonation for every string.  So adjust the first saddle a little more forward than usual and use that distance for your initial scale length.  Then adjust the rest of the saddles accordingly,  General rule of thumb is to adjust the next saddle back by the thickness of the preceeding string (works for me).  You don't want to run out of intonation adjustment room by the time you reach the low E string.

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[cwoodall]

You bring up a good point. Actually, I plan on using a Tune-O-Matic bridge and a 'Stop' tailpiece, so what you said on the intonation will be right on. I looked at the combination bridge/tailpiece, but want to stick to the afore-mentioned set-up. Am I correct in assuming concentric pots to allow seperate tone/volume for each pickup...as opposed to 4-knob/seperate pots for each??

Thanks!!

Curtis

[Southpa]

Am I correct in assuming concentric pots to allow seperate tone/volume for each pickup...as opposed to 4-knob/seperate pots for each??

Thats all up to you. You can do the stock LP wiring if you like ie. 1 vol. and 1 tone pot for each pickup = 4 pots total or you can go the simple route and wire it for 1 vol and 1 tone controlling both pickups. Then again, depending on what kind of pickups you use, you can make it more complicated. Add DPDT (double pole double throw) switches and coil cut your humbucker(s) into single coils.

Edited February 21, 2005 by Southpa