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3d Finish Wood Dyes


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Hey I need to know the best type of dye to use for doing a 3D finish

1.Water based Dyes

2. Alcohol/Lacquer Reducer Based Dyes

3.Alcohol Based Dyes

Iam just not realy sure and I want to get this right so that I do not trash my new design :D

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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Hey I need to know the best type of dye to use for doing a 3D finish

1.Water based Dyes

2. Alcohol/Lacquer Reducer Based Dyes

3.Alcohol Based Dyes

Iam just not realy sure and I want to get this right so that I do not trash my new design :D

!!METAL MATT!! :D

I've had good luck with both.. you just have to keep in mind that the waterbased dye will raise your grain if you're dealing with a wood where that is an issue.. The water based are very vivid and fairly inexpensive.. I go double strength. Do two colors, dye a dark color, sand down to expose the light areas again, then stain with the lighter color.. like blue on black, amber on brown, etc.. will really make the figure jump out at you.

When that's all done, however, your clearcoat will have just about as much an effect on the 3d'ishness of your grain than just about anything.

-m

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Ok well Iam useing realy figured maple and a water based Dye will raise the grain

so how do I deal with that for when I put a finish on the guitar? do I have to sand it back down but at the same time dont sand of the dye

!!METAL MATT!! :D

Edited by !!METAL MATT!!
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Ok well Iam useing realy figured maple and a water based Dye will raise the grain

so how do I deal with that for when I put a finish on the guitar? do I have to sand it back down but at the same time dont sand of the dye

!!METAL MATT!! :D

Sorry folks.. i know this should go in the fnishing category.. but here goes..

there are several tuts online and info on dealing with grain issues.. essentially, it involves wiping on water, letting the grain raise.. then sanding EVER SO LIGHTLY at a 45 deg. angle or so to the grain to take the tops off.. THEN sanding with the grain to smooth out any scuff marks.. I stress lightly because if you get cross grain sanding scuffs they will darken when you stain and you'll be hosed.. but essentially, wet it, sand it off, let dry, then stain it and you should be fine. The grain on maple shouldn't raise too much as it's a pretty tight grain.

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Sorry folks.. i know this should go in the fnishing category.. but here goes..

Dam it Your right SORRY I was not thinking :D

any way thanks man for the info do you have any pic's of the work that you have done with 3D finishes? I would love to see some! :D

EDIT:> sorry man I forgot to ask What Grit Sandpaper should I use?

!!METAL MATT!!

Edited by !!METAL MATT!!
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Sorry folks.. i know this should go in the fnishing category.. but here goes..

Dam it Your right SORRY I was not thinking :D

any way thanks man for the info do you have any pic's of the work that you have done with 3D finishes? I would love to see some! :D

EDIT:> sorry man I forgot to ask What Grit Sandpaper should I use?

!!METAL MATT!!

lol.. my finishing experience has been limited to test scraps.. i have read a ton though and what i've tried on scraps has worked so far.. The dye black/sand/dye another color trick has been around for a long time.

Check this out.. same process.. black then turquois.. insane figure.. http://www.roxyguitarfinish.com/gallery/turquoisedye.htm

Sandpaper grit.. I just read this the other day.. can't remember though if they started with 150 or 320.. 150 scares me.. i'd do a few swipes of 220 cross grain then go witht he grain to get rid of any abrasion marks.. if you really want to be clean, go pick up a scraper and do a scraped finish.. Nothing beats a scraped finish for smoothness.. no grit to leave marks. Nicer wood stores will have scrapers.

If you have a test piece of the stuff, i'd just experiment. It's possible you could wet, dry, sand.. black dry sand and by then your grain will stay down.

Or just go with alcohol based tints. They are more expensive.. The homestead products are nice.. woodcraft.com sells them. waterbased analine powders ate about 10 bucks a pop and alcohol based liquid tinters are about 15 bucks a pop. You get a ton more colors and more vivid varieties in waterbased though.

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Matt, I usually use the waterbased dyes for the best colors directly onto Maple.

I call the waterbased anilyne dyes my 'comic book' colors, they are more vivid and vibrant than the alcohol-based colors. The alcohol-based dyes are good for getting a vintage, aged appearance.

There's not a LOT of difference between them, but it is there.

But you also have the new metallic anilyne dyes, they are really great too, and you can mix them in either water or alcohol.

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Hey guy's do you think that this stuff would work?? http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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Matt,

I have used the dyes you are looking at and they look good. They work with alcohol or water. I switched to these dyes MEK dye. They both look really good, both are MEK. The LMI stuff was costing me about 1/3 as much as the Trans Tint ( I was getting it at Woodcrafters). To me this type of dye looks much better than any other on figured wood.

Peace, Rich

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Matt,

    I have used the dyes you are looking at and they look good. They work with alcohol or water. I switched to these dyes MEK dye. They both look really good, both are MEK. The LMI stuff was costing me about 1/3 as much as the Trans Tint ( I was getting it at Woodcrafters). To me this type of dye looks much better than any other on figured wood.

Peace, Rich

Well that look's good to man but 2 things first They dont seem to have the color I need and They will only ship with UPS so would I have to pay some huge brokerage fee

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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If you have a woodcraft around, check out the transtint or the transfast (waterbased) dyes.. they have a ton of them and they ar more expensive than lmi but you get an ounce for 10 bucks rather than a half ounce for 4 bucks.. You can order off of woodcraft online too. You can also order analine dyes from www.reranch.com. Any of those things will do you just fine and surely someone will work with you on shipping.

Why is UPS a problem? I shipped some stuff to a guy in canada when he bought from me on ebay and it was several dollars more, but not too much..

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If you have a woodcraft around, check out the transtint or the transfast (waterbased) dyes.. they have a ton of them and they ar more expensive than lmi but you get an ounce for 10 bucks rather than a half ounce for 4 bucks.. You can order off of woodcraft online too.  You can also order analine dyes from www.reranch.com.  Any of those things will do you just fine and surely someone will work with you on shipping. 

Why is UPS a problem?  I shipped some stuff to a guy in canada when he bought from me on ebay and it was several dollars more, but not too much..

Cool thanks for the info and with UPS Let's just say ian not there biggest fan right now!! :D and every time I used them I had to pay some ridiculous brokerage fee :D other people may have better luck with them but not me!

!!METAL MATT!!

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OK this is starting to realy PISS ME OFF I can not find any one that is willing to ship to canada at all no one :D it's just Email arter Email arter Email of NO, SORRY, CANT HELP YA, GET LOST, :D

AHHHHHHHHHH that's it I've gone nuts :D

!!METAL MATT!! B)

Edited by !!METAL MATT!!
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PM Brian, he might know of somebody.

Ok I sent the PM now i just gota wait and calm down!

!!METAL MATT!! :D

Edited by !!METAL MATT!!
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LMII also stock powdered dyes, both water soluable and alcohol soluable. I ordered these, and used them to shoot the burst on my Les Paul, and to shoot this fella:

m4843190-7343.jpg

I apply base colours directly to the wood using WS, the shoot the burst using AS dissolved in a 2 part cold cure lacquer. The powdered dyes are non-flammable, so can be shipped by air, and cost very little.

I highly recommend them.

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I got my Dye from Wood Essence Distributing, A Canadian company in Saskatoon.

http://www.woodessence.com/Dyesdefault.html

IN SASKATOON :D:D YES :D Man I have been looking all over the dam place in saskatoon for years now And you just found me a desert oasis They have every thing I could ever need for my guitars not just dyes man you have just made my life 100X easer!! you have no idea how much this is going to help my work man really THANK YOU!!

And Setch deadly guitar how do you do your burst's with dye??

!!METAL MATT!! B)

Edited by !!METAL MATT!!
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I do my bursts -exactly- the same way Setch outlined.

Waterbased anilyne dye for the wipe-on basecoat.

Alcohol-based anilyne dye mixed in with my lacquer for the shader or toner 'burst coats.

I usually use 2 oz. Lockwood powder packets, they last forever, and can be shipped anywhere AFAIK.

10 years down the road and I still have many of the original 1st packets left, I've only had to replace the yellow, red, and black in 10 years, and I've mixed dozens and dozens and dozens of batches.

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