olddog Posted March 6, 2005 Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 I saw the reply to the grain filler question, and the stew-mac epoxy filler looks interesting. I can't seem to find it on the stew-mac site. Also, can it be topcoated with nitro laquer? How about automotive primer-sufacer? ( For solid colors) Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted March 6, 2005 Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 How about automotive primer-sufacer? ← I've been wondering about this one too. I can seem to find any sand n sealer here (France) or maybe I just don't know what to look for. Does the automotive stuff come in clear? I'd really like to do a guitar with the wood grain showing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted March 6, 2005 Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 The primer works over the epoxy. At least it did for me. No, auto primers are opaque. BTW, I've only ever seen it sold as Sanding Sealer, not sand n sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted March 6, 2005 Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 BTW, I've only ever seen it sold as Sanding Sealer, not sand n sealer. ← Okay, that's good to know --now, you know what it's called in French? Or Germany, at least, I can try to find it there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olddog Posted March 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 Thanks, Devon. I have shot the auto primer over bare wood, and over the Merit Pore-o-pac, but never over expoxy sealer. So thanks again for the info. To idch: There are all different kinds of automotive clear coats. The kind that I am familiar with is made by PPG, and it's called DAU 75. It's an acrylic urethane clear. I've never tried it over bare wood, although the tech sheets say it can. Kind of pricey though, especially when you add in the hardener. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted March 7, 2005 Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 I've thought about using some two-part urethane stuff before, too, but I don't have the spray set-up for it. From what I hear that stuff is AWEFUL for your health. I have a friend that does some auto body work that's used it in the past and he's still alive an kicking, but I don't know what kind of breathing apparatus he was using. If I remember correctly it was gonna cost me thirty some odd dollars for a half pint of the opaque stuff with hardener. I think to get a quart of the clear with hardener for forty something. I remember my friend got a half gallon of the stuff color matched to his car and I think he told me it was $125. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olddog Posted March 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 Hi Devon. I don't know if we're talking about the same paint, there's a base coat-claer coat system that most cars went to in the late 80's. What I'm talking about is an acrylic urethane enamal, which is the kind of finish found on early Mustangs. The catalist that you add, is just something to make the paint harden faster, like a couple of days instead of months. I can't really speak for the base coat- clear coat system, I've never used it. The clear that is compatable with the enamal base coat can be mixed with flake or pearl, and can make for a real different look. I don't know if the auto paints are guitar acceptabe, as far as tone and such, but there is a buttload of colors availiable. As far as cost, you can get a pint on almost any color you disire for about 30 to 40 a pint. Which is more than enough for a neck through, with a little left over. The hardener is about 16, and the clear is about 35. The hardener is enough for 3 or 4 guitars. As far as fumes, yeah, I think the hardener in the paint is the bad thing, get a good resperator, paint, and get the hell out to fresh air. Nitro seems to be even worse, you'll see God after shooting that. Still, if you're only shooting one ax, it's not like a car, or a huge object. Take a deep breath, shoot, and then get the hell out of the booth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted March 7, 2005 Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 Well, this stuff just says acrylic on the can. I was just assuming it was urethane. It's all two part stuff, but it's basecoat/topcoat. Two part base, and two part topcoat. You have to mix the catalyst with the paint for it to set up at all as far as I know. I don't know anyone that's ever tried not mixing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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