Fret Board Glueing Question

[SawDust_Junkie]

When building a guitar neck, what type of glue do you guys use to glue the fret-board to the neck. I would think that it would be advisable to use a glue that can be steamed to allow the fret board to be removed if neccessary (in the case of problems with the truss rod or a damaged). What glue would everyone recommend.

On my two projects so far, I have used TiteBond III. I have had good results with it, but according to the packaging it is made for use in marine applications to a degree, so I believe it is at least semi-waterproof. This would make it almost impossible to remove the fret board at a later time if neccessary.

I am aware that alot of luthiers use hide glue, but that seems to be very labor intensive, as you have heat the glue to apply it, and I also don't have a glue pot or anything like that. I have seen some bottled hide glue that does not reuire heating, but have read unfavorable comments about it. So, I was just curious as what type of glue everyone here would recommend.

[Daniel Sorbera]

hide glue works great. It is REALLY easy to use. All you do is put it over your house stove and heat it whille stiring to 145 degrees than spred it on and wait for it to dry. It's really easy to use.

[Guitarfrenzy]

I think most of the people on this site that builds alot just use plain old Titebond original. It's a really good glue that make a very strong bond. I've been tempted to use Gorilla glue on such applications, but then I get to thinking about how I'm gonna remove the fingerboard without tearing it up, if everything didn't align correctly.. lol

[Devon Headen]

Regular titebond. Or just about any alphatic resin glue that isn't waterproof. You could use hide glue also, but unless you're using it for the entire guitar is seems a little pointless. Regardless of people's opinions on how hard it is to use hide glue, everyone will agree titebond is easier to use. Reversability is definitely a big consideration on that joint. Probably the single biggest consideration since that joint has next to zero stress.

Edit, beat me to the answer

[Devon Headen]

Double post

[SawDust_Junkie]

I know most people here use Titebond original, but can it be steamed to loosen it if the fretboard had to be removed ? I would think the Titebond III I have been using cannot.

On my current project, I laminated strips of Oak and Mahogany to make my body blank ( I had some scraps of Mahogany laying around, and I cut up some 4-5 year old White Oak firewood too. I didn't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on Mahogany and figured maple, and ruin it on my first attempt at a carve top guitar) , and then glued a back cap of Oak onto that to get my required thickness. I would think in that application, the Titebond III, which is waterproof, would be ideal to insure any moisture would not weaken the bonds on those joints.

[Devon Headen]

Yes it can.

[Doc]

Get yourself a copy of this monts "Fine Woodworking " magazine (on a newstand near you) and read the cover article on glue. It tells you more than you ever wanted to know about adhesives and probably answer questions you didn't even know you had..