Which Bigsby To Get?

[drewtimfan]

I have a hollow tele, with a carved top from usacg.

I am trying to find out what bigsby to throw on it...I tried to get a hold of bigsby for the last 3 weeks with no response.

I was told either a b3 or b7... I don't know if i need the b7 with the tension roller or not, and if it will even fit.

The guitar has about 5" between the butt and the bridge... But i was told 4" to be safe because of the tension roller... I can't find anyone who can give me a definite answer... Any ideas?

Also what about a bridge? I was gonna use a schaller roller bridge, but i can't find one in stock anywhere. Any other suggestions?

Thanks

[Mickguard]

I have a hollow tele, with a carved top from usacg.

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You keep asking this question, how come you don't pay attention to the responses. You've even asked this at telemodders, and got plenty of tips. And then there's:

The Mother of All Telecaster Bigsby Sites

Or just break down and shell out the bucks for Bigsby's tele conversion kit, that way you can stop frettin' and start twa-A-anging!

[drewtimfan]

I have never got a definite answer... The bigsby conversion kit doesn't work for guitars with filtertrons nor guitars that are carved top.

The b3 and the b7 were suggested... However I can't get any info whether there would be enough string tension with the b3... And if the b7 will fit

[Mickguard]

I have never got a definite answer...

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Yeah, I know what you mean, don't worry--Bigsby sucks for info when you need to do something out of the ordinary.

Have a look through the Telemodders site again--there's a mod there using a B13 (I think, might be the B3) and a TOM, the guy carved the body to get enough string tension for the Bigsby...looks really cool too.

What I'd do in your case would be:

1. get a top-loading three-barrel Tele bridge, chop off the part that normally holds the pickup --or better yet, reshape that opening to hold the Filtertron (it might be easier to adapt a tele + humbucker bridge).

2. Cut grooves into the back of the bridge so the strings go directly from the bigsby to the saddles, no touching the metal.

3. Get a Bigsby B5 (B50 or clone)

4. Flatten (or build up) the areas on the body where you'll screw in the Bigsby. You really only need to do the spots beneath the four feet . Bet you that would end up looking cool too.

Sounds like more work than it really is. All you need is a Dremel type with some cutter/grinder attachments.

I like the B5 because it looks great on a tele, and it has the tension bar, so no worries there.

I didn't realize you were putting filtertrons in there--an excellent idea!

Oh yeah, the B7 is definitely too long for the tele --I have the B70 here for my semi, I looked at the fit on the tele, it won't work.

And a word about the Bigsby clones....I bought one off a guy on ebay. By the time I got through paying his shipping fee (from Canada to the States), the Bigsby ended up costing me $55. But you can buy a B50 (licensed with the Bigsby name on it) for $66 ...shipped for around $72...so I kind of think it's worth the few extra bucks to get that official look to it.

[drewtimfan]

Thanks for your help idch... What could i use to build up the body so that the b5 would sit flush?

[Mickguard]

Thanks for your help idch... What could i use to build up the body so that the b5 would sit flush?

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You'll have to post a picture of the guitar...I looked at the usacg site, but it looks to me like the carved top is still flat ? At least behind the bridge? if that's the case, then there's no problem.

You could always route the Bigsby area flat, probably wouldn't have to take too much off. Or shape small 'feet extenders' for the bigsby that match the curve (if any) of that guitar. They'd probably be pretty thin and barely noticeable.