jer7440 Posted April 9, 2005 Report Share Posted April 9, 2005 Hey Mushy, I live in Grand Rapids. We are starting to get a mid west gang here. Maybe we will have to rumble with Drak and the Maryland gang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdguitars Posted May 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2005 update: Router motor is in its a 3hp lafert motor. It went in like a freaking charm. Now to figure out what a capacitor run motor is.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted May 16, 2005 Report Share Posted May 16, 2005 Nice pin router Derek!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted May 16, 2005 Report Share Posted May 16, 2005 update: Now to figure out what a capacitor run motor is.... ← I could help you with this but I need more info. I worked with cap runned motors in Garage Door openers, like the Stanley and the Genies. Also on semi industrial ones like the Link Controls, Link Masters, Stanleys etc. I thought that the router was a cap started motor, can you post a pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdguitars Posted May 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2005 pics... I am confused about what the ground is... I think #8 is where it should be grounded. #1 and #4 are hot. Whats ground. Just getting this prepped for the electrcian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted May 17, 2005 Report Share Posted May 17, 2005 GND is ground, all the way to the right. The two ~ are the hot. 8 is not ground, that would be bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdguitars Posted May 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2005 but that means the motor is not grounded then. That block is not connected to anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted May 17, 2005 Report Share Posted May 17, 2005 Is this a 110V or a 220V. The drawing looks a bit confusing to me, 1,5 and 4,8 are hot or 110V, black wire from the house I was going to say that were the white wire from the SE goes was the neutral wire, but it is impossible to be that because of the jumper between block 2 and 3. So I'm clueless about that one. Last block to the right is your mechanical ground, or the green wire from the house, this should be attached to the chassis of the router. Now normaly the number you see are the numbers on the cables from the motor, 1 and 4 is the running coil, and 5 and 8 are the starting coil which should be interrupted by a starting switch inside the motor. My only concern is that it says it is a starting and running capacitor, and I see one of the caps in the diagram being used but not the other one (the one between 4 and 8 as a starting cap). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdguitars Posted May 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2005 this is a 220 motor. I see the two hots just not the ground. The motor needs to be grounded correct, I assume thats what needs to be done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted May 17, 2005 Report Share Posted May 17, 2005 look at the ground block. There should be a wire from it to the motor case or frame, or the block itself should be bolted to the case and not insulated from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted May 17, 2005 Report Share Posted May 17, 2005 orgmorg and Maiden is correct.. I just asked an electrician who works with us. GND goes back to the motor frame or any place you can get a ground for the circuit. The first and fourth connections each have 110 connected to it as you can tell from the sine wave symbol below each. I was told that if you connected 8 to ground you'll blow out that part of it. So please don't do that.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted May 17, 2005 Report Share Posted May 17, 2005 You might want to get someone to come and set that up for you. No offense, I am sure you are capable but I would hate to see that monster get messed up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdguitars Posted May 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2005 yea electrcian is coming out. just prepping it. trying to make sense of it all. f'n motor cost me 600 plus 3 weeks so I have patience just trying to know what I am talking about. Never seen a capacitor start motor.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted May 17, 2005 Report Share Posted May 17, 2005 Almost all the Baldor, Lesson, and most electric motors have a start cap, it just give the stator a nice JOLT of juice to get it running in a hurry, ... you haven't been Zapped by a capacitor? If you have, you know what the motor feels, instant gratification,... that's if you don't piss your pants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdguitars Posted June 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2005 well electrcian came over last night and router was working, then I decide to clean up the wiring and somthing must have grounded a cap... and the cap shorted. now I need to find a cap... soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdguitars Posted June 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2005 well when that cap blew it fried the motor.... I am now waiting for a warrenty replacement motor... This is a joke. at least by winter this should be running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdguitars Posted June 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2005 Router finally working. The f'n thing draws 50 amps to start and 20 at run time. I had to mod the wiring more than I thought. Will post pics/video later. The motor runs warmer than I thought. any one have something like this? For some reason this thing also blows out the top bearning bits that I use. Any thought to that? I blew two of them tonight... -derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted June 17, 2005 Report Share Posted June 17, 2005 Why are you using top bearing bits in a pin router? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdguitars Posted June 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2005 when you have a book mathched piece of wood its fairly easy to line it up that way, at least that is what I am used to from the old routers I have had. The template just slaps on the top and route from there. I was just messing around today, will redo most of my templates. just wanted to play with my new tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted June 17, 2005 Report Share Posted June 17, 2005 I still dont understand. The whole point of a pin router is the pin acting as the guide, in place of a bearing., running against a bottom mounted template. I see what you were doing I guess, I just dont undestand the point. I imagine that it is wearing hard on the bearing because unlike a handheld router, you dont really have any "feel" as to the pressure you are applying to the bit. You might be putting too much stress on the bit. I imagine that a short end mill would be your best bet in that monster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egdeltar Posted June 17, 2005 Report Share Posted June 17, 2005 Yeah, Im kind of confused as to why you would be using a bearing bit at all on a pin router??? Im mean......whats the piont of having a pin router then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddgman2001 Posted June 17, 2005 Report Share Posted June 17, 2005 I still dont understand. The whole point of a pin router is the pin acting as the guide, in place of a bearing., running against a bottom mounted template. I see what you were doing I guess, I just dont undestand the point. ← Jay, that's pretty much the point. Bearings are only available in a limited number of sizes. Pins can be any size. We have pins down to 1/16" (handy for doing the switch blade slot.) We also have a set of pins .010" under, .005" under, exact, .005" over and .010" over our main straight bit size (3/8"). A couple of more advantages are: Templates are a lot easier to make if they're 1:1. They are a little more of a pain to align on the opposite side of the workpiece, but there are ways to guarantee alignment. The machine is big and bulky and stays put. You move the work piece instead of having to clamp the workpiece to something big and bulky and move a 10 lb router. Even though the bit is exposed, you can see the cut much better. I feel safer using my pin router than using the table router where the bit is usually obscured by the workpiece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdguitars Posted June 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2005 till i redo my templates I was just playing around with it. I was so used to top routing that I just went that way. This weekend should be fun! -Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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