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Micro Champ


monkey69962000
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Hey Pg,

Im in a hurry because im going to a guitar lesson in an hour or two, but i wanted to get a parts list for the Micro Champ. I had schematic, but i cant find a parts list and i cant really make one as i stink with figuring out the differences of ohms, volts, and differences from what differnt tings look like. I was wondering if someone knows what parts i would need. Im going to the electronics store to get a midi connector for my computer to hook up my keyboard to Band in a Box. Its a rare occasion that my parents will actually take me somewhere to get electronics. I also want to try out my cold heat. LOL

Also, to learn, i would like to understand why the Micro Champ has more of a warmer tone than the ruby or little gem.

But for the next couple of hours i would like to get a parts list if anyone has one or knows how to make one quickly. I would really appriciate it.

So if you know anythiing about the Micro Champ post, but for now i would like to see a parts list.

Sorry for pushiness if i came off that way. im just excited to go to the electronics store.

Thanks,

Monkey

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Also, to learn, i would like to understand why the Micro Champ has more of a warmer tone than the ruby or little gem.

The micro champ is actually a tube amp while the ruby and little gem run off of op-amps?

On the other hand, the micro champ can't run off of batteries, it needs wall power.

What are those circles in the schematics that say either V1, V2, or V3

Also what do the green numbers represent.

You should connect all the V1 circles together, all the V2 circles together, all the V3 circles together. It's just a way to make the circuit neater, as you'd have a bunch of wires crossing that weren't actually connected if you actually put the connections between the circles together.

The green numbers are target voltages around what you should measure at those points when the amp is running - it's a way to help make sure you have everything hooked up correctly.

Also, no offense, but if you can't put a parts list together from a schematic, you probably don't have the electronics experience to build a tube amp that uses potentially lethal voltages and can kill you if you screw up the right way.

Edited by jnewman
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Yeah i found that out by my friend. well got a parts list, but i think i will build a ruby before i go for the micro champ. I was able to make the list, i just didnt know those few things and what the D's are. I still need help with ohms, but thats about all i dont get.

well here is the parts list if anyone wants it:

Resistors:

100

100

1.5k/5w

2.2k/3w

1k/1w

1m

68k

100k

1.5k

100k

15k

47k

100k

820

47

2.1k

200k

470

2.2k/1w

4

Cap

20uf/450v

40uf/450v

20uf/350v

40uf/350v

25uf/25v

250pf

.1uf

.047uf

120pf

10uf/25v

.022uf

100uf/15v

470pf/1kv

D's:

1n4007

1n4007

switches:

spdt

spst

spst

spst

spdt

tubes:

Hammond 269EX

Hammond 125ASE OT

Fil's:

12AX7FIL

6AK6FIL

F:

1A

V's:

12AX7

12AX7

6AK6

Other:

10k primary

(2) stereo jacks

Now i need a schemaic for a midi cable to a serial RS232 interface. lol

Edited by monkey69962000
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D's:

1n4007

1n4007

tubes:

Hammond 269EX

Hammond 125ASE OT

Fil's:

12AX7FIL

6AK6FIL

F:

1A

V's:

12AX7

12AX7

6AK6

What you have listed as "D"s are diodes. 1N4007 is just a model designation for a common rectifier diode. What you have listed as "tubes" are in fact transformers. The 269EX is the power transformer, the 125ASE OT is the output transformer. What you have listed as "V's" are the tubes - a 12AX7 preamp tube and a 6AQ6 as a power tube. What you have listed as the "Fils" are the connections to the tube filaments, they are not separate parts. What you have listed as "F" is the fuse.

The way ohm listings work: if there is no letter (or R) it is just ohms, if there is a K it's kilohms (1000 ohms), if therei s an M it's megaohms (1,000,000 ohms). Numbers after the letters are decimals. For example: 45R6 is 45.6 ohms. 345K is 345 kilohms. 10M is 10 Megaohms.

You probably ought to start with an opamp design :D.

Edited by jnewman
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Try something that runs on a 9 volt battery first - you're definitely not ready for a high voltage build if you don't know what V1a and V1b means. If you can't identify and order every part for a project as simple as Adam's Micro-Champ (especially after having access to a schematic and a complete layout!), you're not going to be able to build it successfully, either.

I'm not being dismissive or patronizing, nor am I trying to make you angry, just trying to offer you a tiny reality check. You simply don't know near enough about what you're doing to pull this off.

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I know LK. Im going to build a ruby first. Then work up. Build season in robotics ended so i have alot of time, so while im waiting to get the tropical colored paints for my LP, i want to build an amp. I wanted one that could switch from clean to OD or clean to distortion that runs on a 9v or 4 AAA bateries. But i want a clean that sounds somewhat clean, not super distorted and then the OD is like heavey metal. I like bluesy distortion not heavey metal. So i need help because i dont think the ruby has a switch from distoted to clean and vis versa.

Thanks,

Monkey

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I gave my gdaut and her bud a crash course in tube tech using these little, cheapos from TubeDepot. diy-K11m. They are NOT awesome-sounding, wall-pounding or any other cool superlative but they use full transformered input and output and the instructions were well-augmented with tech-tips. Gives a good first expose to tube-tech but is PCB-mounted. Not the xfmrs, though.

BY THE WAY!! My son did a union gig at a little home-school get together and the metal door on the back wall fell out while they were playing! Rust and such. He BLEW their doors off!

Crap, I talked so bad about those kit amps that I probly gave the impression that they sound terrible. They really sound good with an 10" 35-watt Jensen. Not a Genz but not a complete dog. AND, you could add a couple of 12AX stages to the front and get some more axe-friendly tone. Plenty of med-volt DC still there.

Edited by thedoctor
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http://runoffgroove.com/ruby.html]Ruby has many shades of sparkly clean all the way up to a great, natural overdrive. The input buffer helps to retain treble detail going into the 386 chip. As you increase the Volume, you will start getting nice breakup.
Here's another example of why literacy is a good thing. Re-read that article, and see if it's not what you're looking for.
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I dont want to change the [...] gain to change from clean to distortion.

How do you think you change from clean to distortion? You increase the gain. It doesn't matter if you're using a gain knob or a switch that changes the circuit topology, you change from clean to distortion by increasing gain.

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I want to use the gain to control how much distortion, but i want a swith so i can turn on the gain basically but i dont want distortiion with my clean. Any amps have it that i can build.

The little gem, if you'd actually looked, has instructions for a switchable gain boost, although from the way it's done I'm not sure how well it'd work.

Every amp has some gain and some distortion, you CAN'T have no gain or distortion. Why are you so set on having a switch? Is it really that important?

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whats an FET buffer and how can i make it/ buy it.

Actually, I think I meant to say the Ruby: http://runoffgroove.com/ruby.html

Although Little Gem Mk2 would also work OK: http://runoffgroove.com/littlegem.html

Anyhow, the FET buffer keeps the LM386 chip from getting too overloaded for a cleaner sound - the 386 chip is overdriven pretty easily from a guitar with hot pickups. An FET is simply a Field Effect Transistor. :D

EDIT: You can usually get the MPF102 at RadioShack.

Edited by Paul Marossy
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  • 2 weeks later...

i dont' get to come here that often but might i make a sugestion here.

why not try a one preamp one poweramp stage for tube building before you get into something that needs mul;tiple stages ie etc

6dx8 triode/pentodes

are a killer all in one bottle

http://www.nj7p.org/cgi-bin/tube?tube=6dx8

quite simple actually

highvoltage on pin 2 through a 100k resistor and through a 1k 1 watt resistor into pin 9 pin 6 hooks up to the red wire of a fender reverb transformer blue wire 300volts. green wire to speaker black wire to ground.

pin 2 into a .022uf 630v capacitor into a 1meg pot output into pin 8 of tube. pin 3 has 820ohm resistor to ground

pin 1 is ground referenced via 1m resitor and input is done via a 47k resistor.

pin 7 is grounded trhough a 360 ohm resistor.

and always rem.

HIGH VOLTAGE IS FUN BUT IT CAN KILL YOU TOO.

HAVE FUN KIDDIES

blue wire goes to high voltage

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I think a pair of 11MSBs run at about 250 VDC is about as simple as you can get. They are highmu tyriodes but you still need a preamp or a pedal to get the input up to snuff. I am going to try a pair without an input transformer and see how trashy it gets. Gotta work out the heater circuit.

Edited by thedoctor
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