monkey69962000 Posted April 16, 2005 Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 Hey Pg, Im in a hurry because im going to a guitar lesson in an hour or two, but i wanted to get a parts list for the Micro Champ. I had schematic, but i cant find a parts list and i cant really make one as i stink with figuring out the differences of ohms, volts, and differences from what differnt tings look like. I was wondering if someone knows what parts i would need. Im going to the electronics store to get a midi connector for my computer to hook up my keyboard to Band in a Box. Its a rare occasion that my parents will actually take me somewhere to get electronics. I also want to try out my cold heat. LOL Also, to learn, i would like to understand why the Micro Champ has more of a warmer tone than the ruby or little gem. But for the next couple of hours i would like to get a parts list if anyone has one or knows how to make one quickly. I would really appriciate it. So if you know anythiing about the Micro Champ post, but for now i would like to see a parts list. Sorry for pushiness if i came off that way. im just excited to go to the electronics store. Thanks, Monkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclej Posted April 16, 2005 Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 http://amps.zugster.net/old-news.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted April 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 (edited) i cant find a parts list there What are those circles in the schematics that say either V1, V2, or V3 Also what do the green numbers represent. Edited April 16, 2005 by monkey69962000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted April 16, 2005 Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 (edited) Also, to learn, i would like to understand why the Micro Champ has more of a warmer tone than the ruby or little gem. ← The micro champ is actually a tube amp while the ruby and little gem run off of op-amps? On the other hand, the micro champ can't run off of batteries, it needs wall power. What are those circles in the schematics that say either V1, V2, or V3 Also what do the green numbers represent. You should connect all the V1 circles together, all the V2 circles together, all the V3 circles together. It's just a way to make the circuit neater, as you'd have a bunch of wires crossing that weren't actually connected if you actually put the connections between the circles together. The green numbers are target voltages around what you should measure at those points when the amp is running - it's a way to help make sure you have everything hooked up correctly. Also, no offense, but if you can't put a parts list together from a schematic, you probably don't have the electronics experience to build a tube amp that uses potentially lethal voltages and can kill you if you screw up the right way. Edited April 16, 2005 by jnewman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted April 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 (edited) Yeah i found that out by my friend. well got a parts list, but i think i will build a ruby before i go for the micro champ. I was able to make the list, i just didnt know those few things and what the D's are. I still need help with ohms, but thats about all i dont get. well here is the parts list if anyone wants it: Resistors: 100 100 1.5k/5w 2.2k/3w 1k/1w 1m 68k 100k 1.5k 100k 15k 47k 100k 820 47 2.1k 200k 470 2.2k/1w 4 Cap 20uf/450v 40uf/450v 20uf/350v 40uf/350v 25uf/25v 250pf .1uf .047uf 120pf 10uf/25v .022uf 100uf/15v 470pf/1kv D's: 1n4007 1n4007 switches: spdt spst spst spst spdt tubes: Hammond 269EX Hammond 125ASE OT Fil's: 12AX7FIL 6AK6FIL F: 1A V's: 12AX7 12AX7 6AK6 Other: 10k primary (2) stereo jacks Now i need a schemaic for a midi cable to a serial RS232 interface. lol Edited April 16, 2005 by monkey69962000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted April 16, 2005 Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 (edited) D's: 1n4007 1n4007 tubes: Hammond 269EX Hammond 125ASE OT Fil's: 12AX7FIL 6AK6FIL F: 1A V's: 12AX7 12AX7 6AK6 ← What you have listed as "D"s are diodes. 1N4007 is just a model designation for a common rectifier diode. What you have listed as "tubes" are in fact transformers. The 269EX is the power transformer, the 125ASE OT is the output transformer. What you have listed as "V's" are the tubes - a 12AX7 preamp tube and a 6AQ6 as a power tube. What you have listed as the "Fils" are the connections to the tube filaments, they are not separate parts. What you have listed as "F" is the fuse. The way ohm listings work: if there is no letter (or R) it is just ohms, if there is a K it's kilohms (1000 ohms), if therei s an M it's megaohms (1,000,000 ohms). Numbers after the letters are decimals. For example: 45R6 is 45.6 ohms. 345K is 345 kilohms. 10M is 10 Megaohms. You probably ought to start with an opamp design . Edited April 17, 2005 by jnewman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovekraft Posted April 17, 2005 Report Share Posted April 17, 2005 Try something that runs on a 9 volt battery first - you're definitely not ready for a high voltage build if you don't know what V1a and V1b means. If you can't identify and order every part for a project as simple as Adam's Micro-Champ (especially after having access to a schematic and a complete layout!), you're not going to be able to build it successfully, either. I'm not being dismissive or patronizing, nor am I trying to make you angry, just trying to offer you a tiny reality check. You simply don't know near enough about what you're doing to pull this off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted April 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2005 I know LK. Im going to build a ruby first. Then work up. Build season in robotics ended so i have alot of time, so while im waiting to get the tropical colored paints for my LP, i want to build an amp. I wanted one that could switch from clean to OD or clean to distortion that runs on a 9v or 4 AAA bateries. But i want a clean that sounds somewhat clean, not super distorted and then the OD is like heavey metal. I like bluesy distortion not heavey metal. So i need help because i dont think the ruby has a switch from distoted to clean and vis versa. Thanks, Monkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted April 17, 2005 Report Share Posted April 17, 2005 (edited) I gave my gdaut and her bud a crash course in tube tech using these little, cheapos from TubeDepot. diy-K11m. They are NOT awesome-sounding, wall-pounding or any other cool superlative but they use full transformered input and output and the instructions were well-augmented with tech-tips. Gives a good first expose to tube-tech but is PCB-mounted. Not the xfmrs, though. BY THE WAY!! My son did a union gig at a little home-school get together and the metal door on the back wall fell out while they were playing! Rust and such. He BLEW their doors off! Crap, I talked so bad about those kit amps that I probly gave the impression that they sound terrible. They really sound good with an 10" 35-watt Jensen. Not a Genz but not a complete dog. AND, you could add a couple of 12AX stages to the front and get some more axe-friendly tone. Plenty of med-volt DC still there. Edited April 17, 2005 by thedoctor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovekraft Posted April 18, 2005 Report Share Posted April 18, 2005 http://runoffgroove.com/ruby.html]Ruby has many shades of sparkly clean all the way up to a great, natural overdrive. The input buffer helps to retain treble detail going into the 386 chip. As you increase the Volume, you will start getting nice breakup. Here's another example of why literacy is a good thing. Re-read that article, and see if it's not what you're looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 (edited) i know, but i want a clean the more i turn up or down, and a switch to change from clean to OD. I dont want to change the volume or gain to change from clean to distortion, i want to manuelly swith it with a switch. Edited April 19, 2005 by monkey69962000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 I dont want to change the [...] gain to change from clean to distortion. ← How do you think you change from clean to distortion? You increase the gain. It doesn't matter if you're using a gain knob or a switch that changes the circuit topology, you change from clean to distortion by increasing gain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 I want to use the gain to control how much distortion, but i want a swith so i can turn on the gain basically but i dont want distortiion with my clean. Any amps have it that i can build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 I want to use the gain to control how much distortion, but i want a swith so i can turn on the gain basically but i dont want distortiion with my clean. Any amps have it that i can build. ← The little gem, if you'd actually looked, has instructions for a switchable gain boost, although from the way it's done I'm not sure how well it'd work. Every amp has some gain and some distortion, you CAN'T have no gain or distortion. Why are you so set on having a switch? Is it really that important? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovekraft Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 So you want a cheap, simple, easily built channel switching amp that runs on 9 volt batteries? Why not just put a Tubescreamer or something similar in front of it, just like all the Fender players do? Hey, it was good enough for Stevie Ray! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marossy Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Oh yeah, I remember seeing that Micro Champ once before. Cool little project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 well then what amp has a nice clean channel on it with little to no distortion. I dont care if it has gain, i just want a nice clean sound with no distortion the higher the volume. I dont care much from the little gem sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marossy Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 The Little Gem MK2 is a little cleaner - it uses an FET input buffer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 whats an FET buffer and how can i make it/ buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marossy Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 (edited) whats an FET buffer and how can i make it/ buy it. Actually, I think I meant to say the Ruby: http://runoffgroove.com/ruby.html Although Little Gem Mk2 would also work OK: http://runoffgroove.com/littlegem.html Anyhow, the FET buffer keeps the LM386 chip from getting too overloaded for a cleaner sound - the 386 chip is overdriven pretty easily from a guitar with hot pickups. An FET is simply a Field Effect Transistor. EDIT: You can usually get the MPF102 at RadioShack. Edited April 19, 2005 by Paul Marossy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted April 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2005 Thanks. Anyone else know a good clean amp that runs on batteries that has a gain or not, i figured out how to take off gain if there is one, so gain or no gain. I want a nice clean amp that runs on 4 AAA or a 9v battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marossy Posted April 22, 2005 Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 There's also three amp projects here that you could try: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted April 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2005 i saw i think im going with MKII little gem thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ansil Posted May 7, 2005 Report Share Posted May 7, 2005 i dont' get to come here that often but might i make a sugestion here. why not try a one preamp one poweramp stage for tube building before you get into something that needs mul;tiple stages ie etc 6dx8 triode/pentodes are a killer all in one bottle http://www.nj7p.org/cgi-bin/tube?tube=6dx8 quite simple actually highvoltage on pin 2 through a 100k resistor and through a 1k 1 watt resistor into pin 9 pin 6 hooks up to the red wire of a fender reverb transformer blue wire 300volts. green wire to speaker black wire to ground. pin 2 into a .022uf 630v capacitor into a 1meg pot output into pin 8 of tube. pin 3 has 820ohm resistor to ground pin 1 is ground referenced via 1m resitor and input is done via a 47k resistor. pin 7 is grounded trhough a 360 ohm resistor. and always rem. HIGH VOLTAGE IS FUN BUT IT CAN KILL YOU TOO. HAVE FUN KIDDIES blue wire goes to high voltage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted May 7, 2005 Report Share Posted May 7, 2005 (edited) I think a pair of 11MSBs run at about 250 VDC is about as simple as you can get. They are highmu tyriodes but you still need a preamp or a pedal to get the input up to snuff. I am going to try a pair without an input transformer and see how trashy it gets. Gotta work out the heater circuit. Edited May 7, 2005 by thedoctor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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