Drill Arbor

[duo2]

I've heard of people using a drill press as a fret arbor. My question is, is there a switch on the drill press that you can activate to stop the bit from spinning to create the ability to fret a neck?

[Southpa]

Yes, most of them say "on" and "off" also, some are color coded, ie. green is "on" and red is "off". Um, you don't turn the power on when using a drill press to set frets.

Edited May 29, 2005 by Southpa

[GregP]

Funniest question ever asked at Project Guitar.

I see you're fairly new, which has nothing to do with the question, but let me take this opportunity to welcome you aboard. Welcome!

[Sambo]

I think what duo2 is asking is...

Is there a button that stops the drill spinning even if you move it by hand. Ie some kind of spindle lock, so whatever you do the fret setter will stay in the same position.

Answer, No, never seen one. But then again you dont really need it

[GregP]

That makes a bit more sense. Still funny as hell.

[duo2]

Well im glad I could humor you guys haha. And yes I am very new at building guitars from scratch. I have been repairing and modifying them for as long as I have been playing and now I'm expanding on my abilities. Thanks for the quick answers, they are greatly appreciated.

[SwedishLuthier]

I use a drillpress to press in fretts, and I can only add that I apreciate the ability to turn the fret setter. It actualy makes it easier to position the neck. I do the fine-positioning bu sligthly turning the setter. Much easyer than trying to adjust the neck when using a drillpress.

[topper]

This method is new to me. What sort of bit do u put in the press to push the frets in ? Fret setter ?

[egdeltar]

This method is new to me. What sort of bit do u put in the press to push the frets in ? Fret setter ?

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http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...sing_Arbor.html

[Myka Guitars]

I have used a drill press for this before. I made an arbor by cutting off the end of one of StewMacs leveling blocks. Here is my setup. It works fine and I fretted many guitars with it.

I have since upgraded to using this and this. It is by far a superior system if you have the money but the drill press method does work.

[M_A_T_T]

I have since upgraded to using this and this. It is by far a superior system if you have the money but the drill press method does work.

[Devon Headen]

Matt look at the picture David posted. He just used a little end of one. I made something that looked almost the exact same as that (wooden 12" radius), and the first fret I pushed in busted the center laminate (the part that's radiused) in two. I'm gonna get the brass piece from stewmac in my next order.

[thedoctor]

That #4483 fret press is worth the money, IMHO, if for no other reasons than to keep your neck/axe on a flat bench instead of 3 feet in the air, stronger press gearing means a better feedback of how hard you are pressing and NO wear on the quill gear of your drill press. Hate to send more jobs to asia but you can't beat that price with an Albert Lea.

[Myka Guitars]

My picture is of my old setup where I used the drill press. It does work fine. The only reason why I posted the pic is because this is what the thread is a bout. It is a cheaper setup and can get you started without putting too much money into it. The wooden fret caul needs to be reinforced with wood glued cross grain so it doesn't split like Devon mentions.

The new system I upgraded to uses a longer aluminum sanding block (more stable and is long enough for the entire fingerboard) and a fret press with brass radiused inserts. The aluminum snading block is perfect and matches the fret cauls perfectly. It produces superior fret jobs. If you have the money go with this setup.

With both systems you press the frets in one at a time.

[Guitarfrenzy]

The new system I upgraded to uses a longer aluminum sanding block (more stable and is long enough for the entire fingerboard) and a fret press with brass radiused inserts. The aluminum snading block is perfect and matches the fret cauls perfectly. It produces superior fret jobs. If you have the money go with this setup.

With both systems you press the frets in one at a time.

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[jer7440]

I don't think Myka is using the bar sander to set the frets, he's just using it to level.

As far as accuracy of those sanders I would bet they are within +/-.002". Those sanders are made of extruded aluminum, in other words they melt the aluminum and push it through a form. Kinda like Playdough. I would thing the only variable would come from the cooling of the aluminum, but I think that is a pretty consistent deal.

[Myka Guitars]

I don't think Myka is using the bar sander to set the frets, he's just using it to level.

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Yes, this is all that the sanding block is for, sanding the fretboard. The fret press is for pressing in the frets, one at a time.

The aluminum is very accurate. These are machined after they are extruded so any problems with it cooling are eliminated. After leveling the fingerboard I put a straight edge across it and it is perfect every time. Put 600 grit on it and you have an excellent fret leveler too. Well worth the money in my opinion.

[Guitarfrenzy]

That's great to know Myka, because I want to buy a couple, but have made them from hardwood before. The reason I did this at first was because I used to buy my fingerboards pre-radiused and I could make these blocks, that would hold down perfectly when gluing the fingerboard down. Then one day, I was finishing a fingerboard leveling job, and I was having some issue with the middle being a little lower around (.003") or so, than the rest of the fingerboard. I had discovered that the way I was using the 8" long radius sanding block was wrong, and not only that, even when I used it perfectly I still didn't get the accuracy I was looking for. I then out of the blue decided to use the block I used for a clamping caul, and after sanding a little while, all my problems was over. So, I became a true believer in a long radius sanding block and have been using it every since. It works very great for fret leveling and I even move it side to side to get all the lengthwise marks out so they play silky smooth. I still want an aluminum one though, just because I think it would be even that more accurate. Thanks for the info...