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So, after about 2 years on this forum, I've decided to bite the bullet and actually build a guitar! I'm going to put about €100 into wood and truss rod then I'll probably buy a cheap guitar (€150ish) to strip the hardware from.

Wood wise, I have decided on a slotted, radiused (16") ebony fretboard, a 30"x4"x1" maple neck blank and a 2 piece ash body along with a way TFC Gotoh Truss rod, all from Craftsupplies.co.uk. That all comes to €80 + shipping. I could get the same stuff from America but the delivery would be long and expensive.

I'm hoping to build a set neck ESP M-II copy with a sculpted heel. I was going to try a neck through but since seeing Rhoad's heel, I've decided a set neck would be easier.

I have Martin Koch's book but I would like any tips or opinions any of you have. Muchly appreciated.

Edited by feylya
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i now,after years of loving neck throughs,actually kind of prefer a set neck.i think they get alot of unfair things said against them because of ed roman's gigantic web site,but in reality i think they provide a slightly "sweeter" or "wetter" tone...especially for lead work.

i think a set neck is a good choice.just make an extra long neck tenon...

oh...and..."get er dun"

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Jaysus, that's a shocking bad Irish accent ya have on ya. Sure, you'd be hit with a big auld shellaghie stick after a few scoops! Begorrah...

Would the 30" neck blank be long enough for a long tenon though? I measured the neck on my LTD and it would be cutting it a bit tight

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Depends if you're planning on joining at the headstock or not. if you're using a compact headstock it might just do going straight through. But probs not! I'd get a 4x2x30" blank from craft supplies and joint the headstock on. Then you will have a good 10" to play with past the end of the fretboard if you're careful. I got a few brazilian mahogany blanks a few months ago and they're nicely quartersawn with a nice bit of grain going on :D

:D

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Well, I was planning on doing a scarf joint, slice the guitar at a 13 degree angle, rough out the head stock (a reversed pointy ESP style) then gluing it back on. The whole scarf section on my LTD is 12" long, leaving me with 18" for the rest of the neck which just goes to the neck pickup route. If you have a better and/or easier way to do it, I'm completely open to suggestions.

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But the 30" inches means it'll just get to the neck pickup. Let me go draw a picture...

it's just a suggestion.it's not really necessary...i just thing it would create a sweeter neck pickup tone and allow you to further sculpt the heel safely.

but i just measured my beast i am building...and even with the bat wing headstock i used 30" runs through the neck pickup(25.5" scale,24 frets)

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sounds like you've got a plan there. you'd advise you get your 'donour' guitar before you start to make anything. just so you can be certain that everything will go together perfectly.

what are you thinking about taking appart? I suggest a cheep Ibanez (as they have decent stock pickups) :D look out for an Ibanez DTX150 destoryer or the Iceman in the same series (think it was an ICX150) very hot pickups, TOM and about £125 (resonable price I think!) :D plus you might have someone who will buy the left overs

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I was thinking of getting this

My plan was to get the wood for the guitar, build most of it, drill pilot holes for the tuners and controls, route the pickup cavities, trem and spring cavities and then get it sprayed. If it all works well, then get my donor guitar. That way, if I mess up the construction of the guitar, then it's €100 or so gone. But if it goes well, I can get my donor guitar, strip everything off it and play my custom made. Once I start upgrading everything (real Floyd, EMG's etc) I can put all my hardware back onto the donor :D

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I'd like to put it through the neck pickup but the way I've figured it, it would look like this with the ESP head.

http://members.boards.ie/feylya/neck.jpg

too much headstock angle...11 degrees is the most you need.i usually go aroung 8 or 9 degrees.

i match the headstock angle to the locking nut...so that the strings break right and i don't need a string tree

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I'm wondering about your plan to strip a guitar for hardware...

First, I'd look on ebay.ie instead --closer to home, the shipping from Germany's going to kill you. Buy closer to home and put the money you don't spend on a better guitar with better hardware...and definitely buy used. No point in buying anything new.

I think the problem with stripping a cheap guitar for hardware is...you're going to end up with a lot of shoddy parts. The tuners for one thing are bound to suck --you're better off plunking down the bucks on a good set from the get-go.

And even though you plan on upgrading later, it's just money down the drain....and putting the hardware back onto the cheap guitar means you'll end up with a cheap guitar that you don't want to play (I'm speaking from experience here).

You're better off getting a good donor guitar you actually WANT --and planning upgrading that guitar's hardware. That way you'll start your project guitar with decent parts.

Or just taking your time and finding good deals on just the parts. You've waited two years, what's a couple of months? In the meantime, you can practice with your tools.

I agree with Robert, make sure you have all your hardware first. It really helps when building the guitar to fit things, measure them etc.

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Shipping from Germany is €20. And ebay.ie is a bogus site.

They're quite decent guitars actually, which is surprising. I doubt I'd find all the hardware I'd want for €180 bucks though. Was thinking about getting decent tuners alright.

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I don't know about the 8 or 9 degrees.. What I've been hearing is 10 to 15.

I could be wrong. I haven't yet built any guitars, so I don't have any real experience. The bass I'm making now, I cut it 12 degrees, which seems to be the same as on my Washburn.

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