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Posted

I used the two sites that were generously provided by two members and I cannot leave the intonation settings like they are. It is all goofy. The A string is 1/4" shorter than the D string and the two E strings are the same length. This is the third set of strings I have tried and it keeps coming out the same. I KNOW this ain't right. Never done one before and now I know why. I know, I know, 30 years is a long time to go without working on one of these but that is my situation. If it matters, it's on a Jackson with a locking nut but I haven't even got that far yet.

Posted

Give us a background on what you're doing, and what you've got.

Is it a factory guitar?

Or factory neck, home-made body?

Start by giving us all the details, and we'll try to figure it out from there.......

:D

Posted

All-factory Jackson with double HBs and no mods. I looked at the setup it came with from a Chicago music store and said "that can't be right". It makes no sense at all but I have NEVER worked on a real or licensed Floyd before. It just shouldn't be like that. IMHO. That's why I need your opinion.

Posted

Been there, done that. I can't get the bridge-hiegth down to where the intonation gets into a normal stagger. Can't say that it has a bad action at all because it is nice and low and easy-bending. It makes no sense at all to me but this is the first FR I have ever had my hands on. The neck is straight, unbowed and a dream to grip. Maybe I should just quit and leave it as is? That just seems SO wrong. Should I lock the nut BEFORE I set intonation? That also makes no sense at all to me. Oh, and before you think the bridge-hiegth is the issue, I probly explained that part wrong. The action is cool all up and down the neck. I am just used to setting up guitars where the bridge-hiegth is a major issue. Not this one.

Posted

It has the three it came with but the plate is nice and level, moves well in both directions and has no issues I can find. I am just beginning to think that the pivot points might be too high. If the pivot points were lower I would have to raise each saddle to compensate. How could they make a production guitar with the pivot points too high? Lowering them will be very ugly so maybe I should just leave it. The only good way to lower them would be to reangle the neck or route pockets for the pivot. Yuchhh!

Posted

im not quite sure if im understanding you properly but ill try and help anyways. im not quite sure why your talking about lowering the bridge height (pivot points) if your action is good then you shouldnt have to worry bout that. you shouldnt have the nut locked whilst setting the inotation because you usually need to slacken the string quite alot to get at the little allen nut to adjust the string length.

some possible reasons for funny string lengths are uncommon string guages, excessive fret wear at twelve fret (my rgs 12th fret is so worn setting the inotation there makes it a weird string length and it also plays out of tune everywhere else asides from other really worn frets)

and probably heaps more.

of all the guitars ive seen/set up theres no rule set in stone as to what the stagger should look like as long as it inotates well then you shouldnt worry. hope this helps. (the set up tutorial on the main site might be of some help if you havent allready seen it)

Posted

That scanned sheet from Kramer is the first one I got. Tough to read but it is usable. To be honest, it just looks wrong. Plays well, good action but the intonation stagger makes no sense to me. I will try to get a couple pics up. Thanks, all.

Posted

I'm not sure what you mean. It sounds like you're trying to set intonation by copying the stagger that appears in a photo. Use your tuner! :D

Greg

Posted

No, Greg, I know about all the intonation-stuff for most guitars. I don't even have an issue with the playability or action of this thing. I got that all right. I just have never seen a bridge set so strange to get there. I think the pics will help explain. I am not trying to set intonation from a picture. I use a digital scope and a strobe. Using the scope on this one.

Posted
Should I lock the nut BEFORE I set intonation?

I do! Tightening the nut will knock it slightly out of tune. For the sake of a setup however, it really shouldn't matter.

The most impactful thing here may be the frets themselves. Meaning if they're larger frets (Jacksons typically are) intonation is difficult to set because high standing frets, fretted hard will make the string sharp and trying to compensate for that can be quite frustrating!

My first take on your situation is you believe it's setup properly but looks strange? With that in mind, leave well enough alone for the time being until you discover something that may alter/correct that strange look?

Posted (edited)

I believe that. It is those big-ass frets and the slight left-hand twist in the neck. And I mean SLIGHT! This thing has it some frets! Gripper likes him some wide frets. I think I should let a good-playing axe stay as is and forget asthetics. No, I don't mean asthetics. I mean, oh heck I don't know what I mean.

Godin, that was my next step because I know where you are coming from on the nut. Its action from first to 19th fret is PERFECT, specially for an old Jackson. I just need to leave well enough alone. Gripper is kinda getting pissed at me because he wants his axe back, not that I am stopping him. He just wants me to send him away with a smile. I can fake a smile. My wife does it all the time.

Edited by thedoctor

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