Ibanez Style Vine Inlay

[gun]

Hi friends I have just received a purpleheart thin board (for the stem), I already have my perloid vine cutted (leafs). I have Dremel, router base, bits (2 mm, 1mm and 0,8 mm).

I begin with that perloid pre cutted cuz it's my first attempt, I did read different tutorials but I got some confusion.

However my first problem is:

The seller said a thick of 3 mm but I discoverd it's thick 3,8 mm (perloid inlay).

Thin purplehart board (1/8") but it really is 5 mm.

Both eBay. The inlay and board are great but I don't want inlay down 3,8 mm in my fretboard, I think is too much. Can I route down 3mm and in the sanding - filing process level it (sticking out 0,8 mm)?

For the stem have I to ask for a thickness sanding to 3 mm to a sawmill? Or If I route down 5 mm the blank fretboard (it is 7 mm thick), glue the wood stem, then radiusing the fretboard and achieve a 5 mm radiused fretboard, would it be better this way? In this case I can easy slot the fretboard, I will saw thru fretboard and stem togheter (of course first to radiusing).

BTW for the stem, now I have all in my hands, I have no idea on how cut out the stem from the purpleheart board. In its entire length or many parts?

I have a plastic thin sheet template for the vine. I could use that for cut out the stem.

Finally any advice on glue is fine. I have a clear slow setting epoxy but I did read so much different thing: epoxy, CA, Hot stuff, franklin hide glue etc.

Thanks everyone

Gian

[Batfink]

Ciao Gian,

I will attempt answer your question with my limited experience

I will agree that to inlay to such a depth (3.8mm) is deeper than i'd like to myself. Consider most pearl used in inlay is between 1 and 1.6mm. If you have a scrap piece of the pearloid i would try to sand it down to around say 2mm (obviously don't go too thin or you could sand through the pearloid when you radius) and see how it looks, this is a much more manageable depth, and depending on how the material is it may be best to sand from the back of the piece so there is minimal sanding of the face of the perloid when you radius the board.

As for the purpleheart stem. You could thickness down to 3mm before you start or you could even lay it as it is and near level this before you inlay the perloid and start to radius. As for cutting out the stem i have no previous experience as i've never inlayed wood only pearl, stone and metals which i cut to fit between the fret slots using the frets to cover the joint. I would say it would probably be easier to inlay it as a number of pieces rather than one whole piece purely as it will be easier to handle as shorter pieces and also it will be easier to remedy if your cavity is slightly off in places.

Hope this helps,

Jem.

[gun]

Ok I will sand the perloid on back (I thought about do it). Maybe it's better if I cut the stem with the template and then I cut it in many pieces at each fret slot. So it will be more easy to handle and glue it. For the stem titebond will work fine, for perloid I believe I will use the epoxy with some rosewwod powder mixed in if the route is too big.

Thanks

[Batfink]

"For the stem titebond will work fine, for perloid I believe I will use the epoxy with some rosewwod powder mixed in if the route is too big."

Do be careful with rosewood, the dust tends to not match the wood when used as a filler. I tend to use ebony all the time because i'm a chicken

Jem

[gun]

The inlay filler color selling StewMac is more bad yet (IMHO). I don't know if I want to use ebony for this project. 2 pcs alder body, 1/4 sawn maple neck, DiMarzio Tone zone Air Norton PUs. Maybe with an ebony fingerboard it would sound too bright and sharp. Maybe or is it only a worry of mine?

[Hunter]

I believe he meant to use Ebony dust instead of Rosewood dust so it will match the fretboard better. I want a picture when you're done!

[gun]

Ah ok, I believed he wanted to suggest me an ebony fretboard. BTW I don't have any ebony dust. I will see if I can find it.

The JEM will be a DNA swirl, woods and electronic as above (not mentioned a push/push to split neck PU) and this vine inlay. Projectguitar will be the first place where I will post pictures. Thanks to this community I started my project and I became part of the staff of Progettochitarra.com

Stay tuned!!!

Thanks everyone

Gian

[Batfink]

I believe he meant to use Ebony dust instead of Rosewood dust so it will match the fretboard better.  I want a picture when you're done!

←

Gun, this is not what i meant to say. Ebony dust when mixed stays around the same colour of the original wood BUT Rosewood does not, it tends to go a lighter colour. Try to route your cavity very close so just the excess glue will fill the gap.

Jem

[gun]

In fact it sounded strange to me!!!

Try to route your cavity very close so just the excess glue will fill the gap.

It's just that I will try to do!!!

I have another doubt. I have to order a 5 mm fretboard. I did read past posts on inlaying first or after radiusing. Many people, including LGM and Craig, inlay on pre slotted and pre radiused fingerboard. My pain is to thin too much the fretboard. If I radius first ok, then I inlay ok. But if I sand to remove glue and to polish inlay can I take more wood and thin too much the fretboard? With 220 grit and on I shouldn't I believe!!!

[Batfink]

If your fretboard is not radiused at the moment there is no reason to radius before you inlay. What LGM and Craig have said is that they get thier fretboards already radiused not that they radius them before they start inlaying....please someone correct me if i'm wrong.

Jem