Drill Press As A Router?

[DaveK]

I did a search on this topic and can't believe it has never been brought up before.

Here is my question...I have a drillpress and I am in the process of making copies of the many templates of the bodies I have been building lately. I was wondering if if I could simply use the tracing router bit in my drillpress.

It would almost be like a pin router and sure would save a bunch of time...

Has anyone done this?

[westhemann]

it has been brought up numerous times actually,dave.

the consensus is that the bearings are not made to withstand the side stress,and that it turns too slowly to cut cleanly.

hey dave,not to hijack...but you do maple fretboards all the time...how do you keep them clean during fret dressing?do you just mask them off?

[Primal]

You most likely will not be able to get anywhere close to the speed of a router on a drill press. Without enough speed (20,000 RPM sound about right?) it would be nearly impossible to get it to cut, much less get a clean cut.

[thegarehanman]

i've got 4 routers, my slowest runs at 27k rpm's, the fastest is (don't quote me on this) 37.5k rpm's.

[Primal]

i've got 4 routers, my slowest runs at 27k rpm's, the fastest is (don't quote me on this) 37.5k rpm's.

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Ah, I was just going by a table with recommended RPMs for certain size bits.

[frank falbo]

I've done it several times, but I have a larger press with variable speeds. Still, the fastest isn't even close to a router, but for small passes, cutting in neck angles, deepening trem routes, and light modifications to pickup routes, it works fine. The danger is that with the slower RPMs you will grab the wood and throw it. So it's a physical workout for me if I do it, even with shallow depths. You have to hold the piece with equal strength from all angles.

If you're going to use a pattern bit with MDF it'll be absolutely fine, provided you have the RPM's. You might try roughing it in with a rasp style bit, and then convert to a pattern cutting router bit for the cleanup. Either way, bandsaw the perimiter as tight as you can.

[silvertonessuckbutigotone]

I use my dads manual milling machine, its made to pretty much route metal so the rpms are perfect (and adjustable) for routing guitars etc.

[DaveK]

Thanks Wes:

As far as Maple boards go...just mask them off & be careful & patient!

No real mystery...just a steady hand & lots of care!

it has been brought up numerous times actually,dave.

the consensus is that the bearings are not made to withstand the side stress,and that it turns too slowly to cut cleanly.

hey dave,not to hijack...but you do maple fretboards all the time...how do you keep them clean during fret dressing?do you just mask them off?

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[Maiden69]

I use my dads manual milling machine, its made to pretty much route metal so the rpms are perfect (and adjustable) for routing guitars etc.

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Milling machines don't count as drill press , If I was to buy a pin router, for the price, I would get a medium size old school (not frequenzy controled like the new ones) milling machine. Drill a hole right in the center of the table and place a pin there, get a servo to control up-down movement, and presto, pin router. Now set the attachments to hold a neck blank in the center, get a nice slow speed servo for left right movement and carve the neck contour just like Wayne Charvel does.

Ahh, back in topic, yes the speed is too slow, but I have found to be very usefull in making the recess holes for the control knobs a'la PRS,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01891.jpg. Other than that, I would stick with a table or manual router for any routing at all.

[jnewman]

I was thinking about this the other day myself, and the biggest problem I can come up with beyond those already mentioned (and the one that really concerned me) is the fact that there's not really a good way to lower the arbor to the right level into the work piece and then lock it at that level.

[ToneMonkey]

With respect to the side stresses of using it as a router, I'm a bit unsure nowadays as I use my drill press with drum sanders and it seems fine. So I think providing you make muliple passes and only take a little bit off at a time, it MIGHT work.

No sub for the real thing though.

[frank falbo]

I was thinking about this the other day myself, and the biggest problem I can come up with beyond those already mentioned (and the one that really concerned me) is the fact that there's not really a good way to lower the arbor to the right level into the work piece and then lock it at that level.

←

Don't know how to answer that other than I just "do" it. I hold the piece with my left hand. Then turn the press on, and with a single motion, my right hand/arm lowers the bit and twists the lock. I think I might use my right wrist to lower the bit, I'd have to go do it. Then I give the lock a final tightening. Also I set the table really high, so the arbor is only coming down 1" or so. That eases sideways stress a little by keeping the arbor in mostly in its sleeve.

Come to think of it, sometimes I hold the piece with both my elbows/forearms, lower the bit with my left hand, and tighten with my right hand. Its dangerous stuff, and I don't recommend it to anyone. But it works for me in small doses.

[ddgman2001]

The taper used to hold the chuck in place isn't designed for a lot of side stress and vibration. On newer presses anyway you risk the chuck falling out.

I've routed wood and milled steel on my uncle's old press with a cross-slide vise. It worked fine on that press but it was 40 years old. I've bought 4 presses since then - various Deltas and imports. They've all had problems with the chucks falling out.

[jnewman]

The chuck falls out on the one I've been using every time I've used a drum sander on it . I just stick it back in and it works fine, of course, but it's still annoying and one of these days it's going to fall on my foot. OUCH!

[frank falbo]

I've never lost my chuck. If I had, I probably would've quit using it as a router pronto. Although I need to replace it because it cross-threaded at some point, so there's a small area around 1/4" (which happens to be router bit shaft size) where it threads a little roughly.