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Floyd Rose + Compund Radius Fb = ?


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Ok so I finally recievd my compound radius fretboard and now that i think of it, it might have been a bad idea to buy it. I remember reading about how Floyd Rose Tremolos are only 10" radius and that they MUST be 10" radius fret boards. Is this true??

_shant

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I actually thought Floyds were at a 15" radius. :? Don't quote me on that. I suppose the worst thing that would happen is that your action wouldnt be consistent from string to string. If you just had to make it perfect, you could shim the bridge saddles.

To be honest though, I wouldn't worry about any slight difference. I've had floyd's on "wrong" fretboards before and it didn't hinder the playability at all.

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Oh! Thanks for the quick response.

Im a bit relieved now, i didnt really feel like dealing with sending anyhting back and reordering.

Any other suggestions and opinons?...if anyone wants to contribute.

Oh, and i found this. http://floydrose.com/pdf/brochures/Floyd_R...ge_Brochure.pdf

10" is the right radius.

Edited by shanter
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There are two radius of nut available for OFR, 10" and 15"...i can't for the life of me remember which are which !

Edited to say: yes i can remember as i brought a replacement nut and couldn't work out why the thing played like a dog until i did some background looking as the guitar in question originally came with an R2 nut but the replacement i got was an R3. I can't 100% say this is correct but what i wrote down was: R3 and R5 are 10" radius and R2 and R7 are 15" radius.

Jem :D

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I am so confused here. On floyd roses site they say 10" and 15". On stew mac they sell 14" and on warmoth they sell 10".

Too bad, because there's an ibanez double edge pro I want to get, and on ibanez.com they say the radius of the fretboard is 16". Maybe I should just get a 15".

EDIT: Can't you change the radius by adjusting something?

-Jamie

Edited by sepultura999
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Its an Original FR

I dont think you can adjust anything because the nut is actually bent to the required radius.

So wait...which would be better to buy the 10" radus or the 16" if my fretboard is compund from 10-16....

damn the confusion!

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I am so confused here. On floyd roses site they say 10" and 15". On stew mac they sell 14" and on warmoth they sell 10".

Too bad, because there's an ibanez double edge pro I want to get, and on ibanez.com they say the radius of the fretboard is 16". Maybe I should just get a 15".

EDIT: Can't you change the radius by adjusting something?

-Jamie

STEW MAC SELLS THE SCHALLER...NOT THE ORIGINAL,HENCE THE DIFFERENT RADIUS

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OK so heres what i jsut found out.

I called Warmoth to order my OFL and I talked to the guy a bit and in addition to him telling me they are backorderd for over 6 months on the OFL, he told me that it would be better for me to buy the 15in radius rather than the 10" becasue i have the compund radius. Therefore he reccomended that I buy the Schaller Licenced. I really dont want to buy the schaller.

Now I have no idea where to buy the OFL from....and im even more confused as to what radius to purchase.

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Oww wes. My EAR! lol

Here's my opinion, and I may be wrong, so correct me anyone if I am wrong.

Go with a 10" Radius. The reason why I say that is because Warmoth promotes their compound radius ideas more than the norm of the radius that's throughout the whole neck. The compound radius is 10" at the nut, and they only sell floyd rose nuts that are 10" radius. See where I am going?

Maybe you can get a 10" radius nut, and a 16" radius bridge! lol

I'll show myself out the door now lol.

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Look at what Wes pointed out. Stewmac's 14" radius floyd rose nuts are for the Floyd rose tremolo that Schaller makes, liscensed under floyd rose.

For an official floyd rose, the radius nuts come in 10 and one comes in 15.

So there is only 2 for you to choose from, if you want an actual Floyd Rose made nut.

-Jamie

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Go with a 10" Radius. The reason why I say that is because Warmoth promotes their compound radius ideas more than the norm of the radius that's throughout the whole neck. The compound radius is 10" at the nut, and they only sell floyd rose nuts that are 10" radius. See where I am going?

Maybe you can get a 10" radius nut, and a 16" radius bridge! lol

No "LOL" needed; you're right on the money. For the strings to follow the fretboard's compound (conical) radius, the nut should be 10" (which the fretboard also is at that point) and the bridge should be MORE than 16". Since the conical shape is 16" at the highest fret, that same shape would be roughly 18" where the bridge is. If you're shimming bridge pieces anyway, THAT's where I'd set it. But 16" is close enough, and heck, even 10" will WORK, even if not optimally.

But definitely get a 10" nut.

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Maybe im a bit confused here.

can i get the bridge in different radii or is it only one radius bridge with multiple nut radii.

i understand the concept behind the 10-16" radius change but im clueless as to where to buy what...and with what you guys are saying, would i have to get a schaller instead of the OFL? Id much rather spend more $ and get the better one.

i really appreciate the help.

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to calculate proper bridge radius (in compound radius situations) use this radius calculator spreadsheet

to measure the radius of your fingerboard, and under the strings (actual bridge radius) stew mac under string radius guages or for just the fingerboard, the notched stainless steel ones might be a bit more durable.

to get the correct radius at the bridge use shim stock, available from universal jems, or all parts or just pick up a variety pack from your hardware store and cut the square's yourself.

Original floyd's are 12"radius on their own, but most of them come assembled with a 0.01" peice of metal running under the ADGB saddles to make it roughly a 10" radius.

If you want to be completely **** about it, take off the metal plate, install the bridge, use the under string radius guages to measure the exact radius you get, use the calculator to find out the exact shim size you need under the saddles, cut and install it, reinstall, recheck with the under string guages. Now hope you sanded the nut area to exactly 10" :D

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haha

great info derek, ill use the shims to fine tue it. im very **** about it.

now as for what to buy...haha...im sorry, $200+ is a big investment for me.

Correct me if im wrong.

1) im going to buy this from ed roman http://www.iwantguitars.com/?product=120 which from my knowlege now is a 12" radius BRIDGE which i will change to 16-18" inch with shims.

2) then im goin to buy this http://www.warmoth.com/hardware/parts/part...ude_string_nuts

the R2B

thus making it a compound string radius.

(dear god i hope i got this right)

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ed sells the bridges with the nut, and that (r2) is 10"(or should be), then shim the bridge. You can try and call in your order to confrim the nut radius.

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perfect. (sort of sarcastically)

i went to order the OFL from Ed and of course something is wrong with their order forms so it never went through. good thing tho because i was looking around and i relized something.

if i buy the 1 5/8 nut then that converts to about 41.2 mm when i was originally planning on making a 43mm nut width. i havent yet cut the neck out but would it be better if i bought the 1 11/16in nut (which converts to about 42.9mm)? Would that be more suitable for 43 mm nut width?

or...should i just shut up and buy the R2(1 5/8)?

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If you want to make a nut of 43 mm go for the R4. It is 10" radius and the only option is to shim the bridge with those great infos KrazyDerek gave you first. The Stew Mac locking nut is a Shaller and is 14" . BTW it is a good quality nut.

P.S. Cheers KrazyDerek I was looking for those a long time. 2 posts here and no reply but now I have them!!! :D

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Krazy what do you use to shim? Brass, stell???

I guess you can't find any of those dimensions ready but you make them from your blank shims.

thanks

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Thanks..... mhh to achieve properly thickness do you glue them? Or do you simply put one on the other?!?!

This is the "last" doubt!!! LOL

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