OrganizedChaos Posted July 15, 2005 Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 Hello, First off, I'd like to thank everyone taking the time to help beginners like me, and I'd like to apologize for this post not having any particular direction I have a relatively inexpensive black Squier (Fender) Strat which has developed quite a few chips in the finish. Seeing as how inexpensive the guitar is, I'd really like to try my hand at refinishing the guitar (I know I can drop-fill the chips, but that's not as fun). I'd really be happy if I can finish this guitar under $50, considering the guitar is only worth $100! Okay, so for stripping the old finish: I don't have access to a heat gun so I don't suppose that's an option. So I suppose I should use a chemical stripper? If so, could someone recommend a good and cheap one? As far as the finish goes, I've decided on dying the guitar Scarlet or Cherry Red with ReRanch's water-based aniline dye. I'm still not quite clear on whether to use a sealer or not. If it's recommended to use sealer, could someone recommend a good one? I plan on clearcoating with a nitro finish. I don't have access to a gun, so I'll be doing everything in rattlecans if possible. Could someone recommend a good nitro clearcoat? Don't get me wrong, I've spent a few hours looking over the forums, but there is so much information and differing opinions on what to do, that I thought it might be best to just ask and see what everyone suggests. Thanks! OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 15, 2005 Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 (edited) Hi OrganizedChaos, For a good cheap stripper brand, I would recommend "Zip Strip" from home depot. They have many varieties of strenght's. I would pickup the industrial strenght remover because it removes 8+ coats of finish. Uhhh, you may not get a nice piece of quilted maple underneath the paint of a squire. I know there are many opinions about this, but it's probaly a plywood body with a cheap veneer over it. I may be wrong though. For a sealer from a rattlecan, Deft Sanding Sealer is a favorite. You can also pickup nitro clear from rereanch. Good luck, and post pics! Edited July 15, 2005 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganizedChaos Posted July 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 Thanks very much for your recommendations! As for the wood, I'm reasonably sure that it's not plywood, since there is a chip or two on the edge of the guitar and I can't see different plies (unless they're really thick). The wood is a lighter color so I'm assuming it's maple, but I really have no idea. Also, could you or anyone else verify the procedure for me? (i.e. strip, dye, seal, clear, and any details of those steps). Thanks a lot! OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 15, 2005 Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 Thanks very much for your recommendations! As for the wood, I'm reasonably sure that it's not plywood, since there is a chip or two on the edge of the guitar and I can't see different plies (unless they're really thick). The wood is a lighter color so I'm assuming it's maple, but I really have no idea. Also, could you or anyone else verify the procedure for me? (i.e. strip, dye, seal, clear, and any details of those steps). Thanks a lot! OC ← You're welcome Well, as long as it isnt plywood then go for it! That procedure sounds pretty right. If you haven't already, check out www.reranch.com for vast painting tutorials Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganizedChaos Posted July 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 Will I have any issues with using a water-based dye after removing the paint? I suppose I should be okay if I'm using a chemical stripper and get all the old sealer and everything out. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 15, 2005 Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 Will I have any issues with using a water-based dye after removing the paint? I suppose I should be okay if I'm using a chemical stripper and get all the old sealer and everything out. Thanks again! ← Should be fine. Sometimes sealer will sink into the wood farther than you expect, but it's not that bad. If it does happen you can usually go at it with fine grit sandpaper until the stain is finally free from the baracade Of course, you can used analine based dyes too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganizedChaos Posted July 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 Of course, you can used analine based dyes too. I assume you mean alcohol? Does an alcohol-based dye have to be sprayed or can it be wiped on? If so, what sort of alcohol would I need to mix the dye? I was just planning on using a water-based dye since it seems like it might be cheaper. If it would be easier and still relatively inexpensive, I might use an alcohol-based dye instead. Once again, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 15, 2005 Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 (edited) Of course, you can used analine based dyes too. I assume you mean alcohol? Does an alcohol-based dye have to be sprayed or can it be wiped on? If so, what sort of alcohol would I need to mix the dye? I was just planning on using a water-based dye since it seems like it might be cheaper. If it would be easier and still relatively inexpensive, I might use an alcohol-based dye instead. Once again, thanks! ← Yeah alcohol based analine dyes, typo Denatured alcohol can be used to mix it. A good ratio is one part dye, one part alcohol. Like I said before, read around reranch: http://home.flash.net/~guitars/dyes.html You would have found that if you did Edited July 15, 2005 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganizedChaos Posted July 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 I've read most of the articles on ReRanch prior to making this thread It's just hard to remember most of the information Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 15, 2005 Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 I've read most of the articles on ReRanch prior to making this thread It's just hard to remember most of the information Thanks again ← Haha, I know what you mean. Just look there for help anytime though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganizedChaos Posted July 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 Well, I just found the thread about Squier bodies I'll wait until I get it stripped to make a decision on what I should do. I guess I'll try to do a Dakota Red job, but I'm not sure now about where to get my color coat. I guess I could get it from ReRanch. If I do this, will it be compatible with DEFT's S&S and clear lacquer? Thanks, OC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 15, 2005 Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 You can test them all on scrap first. If they arent compatible look for something else. I know that Dupli-Color spray systems are compatible with Deft Sanding Sealer, so you may want to look into them. You can pick them up at many auto stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganizedChaos Posted July 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 You can test them all on scrap first. If they arent compatible look for something else. I know that Dupli-Color spray systems are compatible with Deft Sanding Sealer, so you may want to look into them. You can pick them up at many auto stores. ← Actually, I was just considering using a Dupli-Color system I was thinking about maybe a red Metalcast, but I'll have to go check out Wal-Mart and see what else they carry. Do you know if the DC systems are compatible with Deft clear lacquer? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 15, 2005 Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 You can test them all on scrap first. If they arent compatible look for something else. I know that Dupli-Color spray systems are compatible with Deft Sanding Sealer, so you may want to look into them. You can pick them up at many auto stores. ← Actually, I was just considering using a Dupli-Color system I was thinking about maybe a red Metalcast, but I'll have to go check out Wal-Mart and see what else they carry. Do you know if the DC systems are compatible with Deft clear lacquer? Thanks ← Might be compatible. You could always go with the dupli-color clear though too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganizedChaos Posted July 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 ← Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 15, 2005 Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 ← Might be compatible. You could always go with the dupli-color clear though too. ← Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganizedChaos Posted July 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2005 I'm really not sure, but I have never used Deft. I have used the dupli-clear, and it tends to build fast; I was using a heat lamp though, so I could build it pretty thick and have it cure even quicker. ← Sorry for being a pain Any estimate on how many cans of clear I'd need? I'm assuming I'd need about 2 cans each of ground coat and translucent coat, and about 4 or 5 of clear? Thanks a bunch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 16, 2005 Report Share Posted July 16, 2005 I'm really not sure, but I have never used Deft. I have used the dupli-clear, and it tends to build fast; I was using a heat lamp though, so I could build it pretty thick and have it cure even quicker. ← Sorry for being a pain Any estimate on how many cans of clear I'd need? I'm assuming I'd need about 2 cans each of ground coat and translucent coat, and about 4 or 5 of clear? Thanks a bunch! ← Haha, not a pain at all. That's what forums are for How many cans of clear? I usually buy about 6-8 cans of dupli-colors small canned clears. They have regular sized ones too; if you get those get around 4. Ground coat? Do you mean primer? And if you are doing a transcolor I suggest you do something other than primer gray for the primer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganizedChaos Posted July 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2005 Haha, not a pain at all. That's what forums are for How many cans of clear? I usually buy about 6-8 cans of dupli-colors small canned clears. They have regular sized ones too; if you get those get around 4. Ground coat? Do you mean primer? And if you are doing a transcolor I suggest you do something other than primer gray for the primer ← No, I mean the Metalcast ground coat. It's a metallic coat that you put down before you put down the trans color coat. I guess I'm going to try for something similar to a candy apple red Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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