n8rofwyo Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 I recently purchased a cheap piece of flamed maple to give a drop top a go. This will be my first attempt at the stain and sand back method. Initially I sanded the top to 220 then stained the top emerald green. I then sanded this back with 320 - had pretty good grain definition - and wiped on a peacock blue. The thing is, that from one angle the figure "jumps" at you just like it should, but when the top is shifted under the light it grows pretty faint. I have read the tutorials, and searches aren't producing anything that helps. I just don't know if this is common, or if I just haven't added enough dye to darken the grain. Or maybe I just have crap wood, which is entirely possible, since I bought this piece as an experiment more or less. The only other thing I can add is that most of the change occurs right at the book match. I know pics would help alot, but I can't get to the shop to take them right now. I just figured that those of you who have done this might know one way or the other just from a description. TIA, and we'll call this my one "stupid question" of the month! Nate Robinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 The higher the grit you go, the higher the chatoyance of the figure, and the more pronounced that effect that you're seeing will get. Try sanding up to 4000 if you want to see some damn figure dancing with the light. Keep your sanding to 220, or even 150 for less chatoyance. The 4000 grit thing is very cool when doing a natural finish and you want to just take the chatoyance over the freaking top, like if you were going to do that top completely natural with no dyes or stains, but when doing the stain back thing, it sort of works against you, and you keep the grit down in the 220's or 150's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8rofwyo Posted August 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Betcha that's it. Thanks for the advice, it was actually your "Ohhh, so blue" thread that inspired me to give this a whirl. Nate Robinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Thanks. The natural inherant figure of the wood itself does play a part in that effect, some pieces will do it more than others, but to minimize the overall effect and keep the figure so you can see it dead-on, keep the grits down. Want to see some wood that will be taken to 4000 grit? Look at the thread that I just posted in the auction/website section. That puppy will be all natural and treated to the 4000 grit polish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8rofwyo Posted August 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 HOLY FREAKIN !$%#&%(*&^*&^$&#$@^$*^##(*)(*^*&**&!!!!!!!! Its safe to say mine don't look like that! I know its not good form to ask what it cost, but was it over or under $400. Nate Robinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted August 9, 2005 Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 Fifty five bucks for the back set, just won it 1/2 hour ago. And if I remember right, the top set was less than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8rofwyo Posted August 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2005 That's amazing, finding that kind of deal must take some serious diligence. Yet another lesson learned.... I generally don't check ebay to much because I don't feel I have the ability to judge decent wood based on a pic that is supposed to show it's best side only. Do you look for anything in particular? Nate Robinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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