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Posted (edited)

Ok, so im sort of close to the wiring stage of my guitar and i need to know if this wiring set-up is possible so i can make the necessary routes and holes in the guitar.

I bought the EMG ZW and because it comes with all the wiring pre-soldered its sort of confusing as to how i should wire this all together.

I bought a rotary pickup selector HERE

and now im confused as to how im going to wire it up.

I also bought THIS from stew-mac which also makes me unsure.

heres what im looking to do.

wiring.jpg

pos 1 - kill switch

pos 2 - neck

pos 3 - bridge/neck

pos 4 - bridge

if anyone can help me out with this id greatly appreciate it. i can figure out most of it, im just unsure how to wire the flush mount jack and the rotary selector.

Edited by shanter
Posted

Have you got a truth table/wiring diagram for that rotary switch? The rest is fairly trivial, but you'll have to get that switch right, and it's not standard guitar hardware, so I have no idea how to wire it.

Posted

ps 1 tie to ground

ps2 to neck volume ie blue

ps4 to bridge volume ie yellow

ps3 tie one yellow to one green tie one blue to another green

black to the tone and output jack

Merry Christmas :D

obviously you need to tie the batteries +9v to -9v on one to get the 18v

and the red is the hook up wire.

one of the emg wires is ground the other is hot.

hook middle of pot to pickup hot one side ground one side output this keeps it nice and pretty old gibson style.

Posted

ok ansil. heres what i got out of your post.

diagram2.jpg

now, im not sure, is the ground the three [black] terminals in the center of the swtich or would i have to connect it to somewhere else i.e. brdge, copper sheilding..

no idea what you mean with this... :D

"hook middle of pot to pickup hot one side ground one side output this keeps it nice and pretty old gibson style."

Posted (edited)

diagram.JPG

There you go. If it's designed the same as my 4P3T rotary switch, your wiring should look like this. You might have to invert it to get the neck pickup and the bridge pickup where you want them when the knob is turned accordingly. I recomend that you send the output from your volume pots(for the bridge and neck) to the switch so when only one is selected, having one pot at 0 will not effect the other circuit. I hope that's copesetic; I'm dilusional from watching the news channel all day.

EDIT: If you don't have a diagram telling you which tab on the output jack is for the tip and which is for the ring, then you'll need to go at it with a multitester. If you wire the output to the wrong tab,(and use a mono cable) you're signal will just be perpetually grounded.

Edited by thegarehanman
Posted

WOW THANKS!

its exactly the same switch, you actually reccomended it to me.

only one more question (hopefully)

do i solder the ground wire to the switch's metal casing aswell? it seems like you drew it like that in the pics, but i just wanna make sure.

Posted

You can. The reason you would normally solder the ground wire to a pot's casing is because the pot's shell surrounds the resistor film inside of it. This effectively acts as a way to shield the signal inside the pot. The switch you're using does not have a case that completely surrounds the terminals and tabs; so, grounding the case wouldn't do much for shielding. However, I say ground the case, because it's better to be safe than sorry.

And by the way, I did recomend that switch to you, but that's not the exact one I used. You're using a 3 Pole, 4 Position swtich; I used a 4 Pole, 3 Position switch. However, since it's the same manufacturer, I'm pretty certain of how yours opperates.

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